Update to my grinding clunk issue…

So I sprayed contact cleaner to all connectors that is related to the 4x4 system specially the ones that operates the front differential. There are two solenoid on the wheel well on the passenger side between the rad and the air filter and its marked with a yellow and blue dot. There is also one on the axle for the actuator that engage/ disengage the front diff., Then whatever I can reach on top of the Tcase (hard) I also greased the actuator rod on the front diff, actually over greased it for good measure.

I have read a lot about this particular problem and it also is related to the flashing 4X4 dash blinky lights I searched the web and got good result when using the Pajero name instead of the Montero and I read sites form Russia, Asia, Australia and Europe/ UK about the same issues they are getting.

Also Monteros are 4H or front engaged as their natural mode at start up and as vacuum in the tubes pick up, the actuator retracts the rod to switch to 2H. (Watch the blinky lights as they prepare themselves at start-up) So my problem is I am losing vacuum somewhere that is why the actuator creeps to switch back to 4H mode (grinding sound then the clunk is when it re-engages). When the grinding/ grating sound occurs I simply switch to 4H to help the actuator do what it’s trying to do and it actually stops the problem. It was also advised that if there are any issues with the 4X4 system is to keep it in its natural mode, which is 4X4 (4H).

I checked for leaks using a Mityvac and also wiggled tubes in their connectors hoping to seal a bad connection. Also it was advised to “exercise” the 4X4 system by using it once a week or going in and out of them to avoid the actuator rod from becoming seized or just lazy like mine.

Also don't forget to check the Check Valve located near the two solenoids (blue dot & yellow dot) there is a white plastic tube with an arrow and this should be able to hold vacuum one way. make sure you install it back the right direction.

Montero’s a 4X4 by nature and by me trying to save gas by just leaving it in 2H got the system upset, as they say use it or lose it

This site Helped me a LOT so check it out if any of you have the 4X4/ flashing lights issues or the grating/ grinding sound and a clunk/ thud when coming to a stop. Check this site out for good information and troubleshooting the Montero/ Pajero’s amazing 4X4 system.

http://4wd.blogeasy.com/

Keywords: super select, flashing lights, pajero, vacuum, solenoids, wiring diagram, 4WD lights, 4x4 display, lights flashing pajero, shogun, challenger, mitisbushi, flashing light fix, active trak, Montero flashing lights

 

Maybe a little late in chimming in, but I had this problem before summner of this year. Same exact malady. Grinding sound when coming to a stop, then a clunk - sounds like gears are trying to engage possibly, had to shift to 4H then back to 2H to "get back to normal". Happened more in hot weather than in mild weather and at low speed.

Your update pretty much says it all. I posted and received tons of help on this forum. Cleaning the contacts - all looked like new actually when I checked them. "Exercising" the shifter - shifting often into and out of 4H from 2H (this helped a lot - legitimately!). Also, cleaning out the vacuum line vents (There are 4 or 7 under the hood with rubber caps on them (can't remember the exact number - this helped a lot). Today, the differential is no longer trying to engage - but the damn lights are still blinking on the dash. Got all four of the Monty wheels in the air and checked the 4x4 selector operation - works fine for now.

I talked to some dealer techs: they focused on malfunctioning solenoids but wouldn't say too much more: job preservation, of course.

Good luck. Read my previous thread on this topic - not sure if it's still archived.

 

yeah, those solenoids on the wheel well are most likely the culprit, check out the resistance across the terminals of the solenoid they should be 36 - 46 ohms only, even if they still click and work when voltage is applied, they may not be strong enough to push the plunger to hold a vacuum.

my blue dot solenoid is flakey

 

After searching the web for information on this problem, I ended up here. These two solendoids were clicking around like crazy when I put the shift lever into 4H from 2H, and I have a flakey 4WD Indicator combined with an ABS light. I went in to clean the contacts, check the hoses, etc, and broke the stem off of the Blue Dot solenoid - oops, probably needed replaced anyway. Can't check to see if cleaning the contacts worked now, but I guess I'll check with the dealer on Monday to get some new solenoids. I'll probably just replace them both I guess. Anybody have any idea on cost?

 

haha, I broke my yellow dot solenoid, I jb weld it. worked fine till I got the new solenoids, pulling the vac lines a bee-otch. its like glued. I pulled the rubber hoses, cursed then snap! oh snap! hehe

they sell it as an assembly, yellow and blue dot and the bracket too. its 124.00 at the dealer, 84 online. if your patient then online is the better deal. the only thing I dont like online is sometimes they ship the wrong part.

>>> 84 bux??? i check the link I gave below and it was like 87buxx?? sorry! [8D]

 

Excellent I see I see. Where do you order from online?

 

http://tinyurl.com/296szm

problem with this is, can't tell if its the solenoid valve we want, no diagrams

good luck!


>>by the way, if you go to the dealer tell them its the "freewheel solenoid valve" those guys at the parts dept. are smart alecks and mention it to them that it is between the rad and airfilter box or they will be asking "is this valve for emmisions? because solenoids valves are for emisions blah blah".

 

Same thing just happened to me (2003 Montero Limited). I was driving down the highway at about 65 mph in 2 wheel drive, when i suddenly i heard this horrible and loud grinding noise, just like if my transfer case just exploded or gears were trying to engage. So i put the tranny in neutral and coasted to the first exit, when i approched 5-10 mph i apply the brake to stop and at the same time i applied the brake the grinding stoped. So i get out of the truck to look for car blood and nothing. When the grinding noise started, my anti skid and anti spin light went on and the orange TC light started to blink.

So i get back in the truck and put it in drive and except from the lights in the dash, the truck runs fine. So istop to a garage were i know a mechanic to get the truck on the lift and check for anything. Turns out everything was ok including oil in the Front and rear diff and the TC.

So i get back home and park the truck (lights still on and TC orange light still blinking). Next morning i start the truck and no more anti skid and spin lights neither the 4x4 TC light blinking. I go to get something at a local store, when i get back in the truck to start it, some thing again...

Today, in the morning the lights were on, this afternoon all worked fine.

Initially it sounds like a electrical problem with the actuators, but the vacuum line makes sense.

When i was at the garage we try to scan the truck without much success, but....while we were trying to scan, the 4x4 TC orange light blinking sequence wasn't the regular blinking. It was 3 fast blinks and 3 long blinks, then 3 fast, 3 slow. Anyone know those codes?

I'm sure if i go the to dealer they will want to change the whole freaking actuator assembly.

 

I'm pretty sure we have the same problem, just engage it to 4H for now to keep it safe, then check your solenoids if they are working properly. also check the link provided above to see what you can do to check whats amiss in your 4X4 system.

good luck

 

Since then the truck won't ever engage in 4H, has soon has i move it to 4H the TC light starts to blink. I shut down the truck and put the lever to 2H and restart it and the blinking TC light goes away and comes back in 2H.

I've check both selenoid by disconnected them, i can clearly here the air exhausting when i disconnect both of them, so i doubt it is the solenoid. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow, i will check if air goes to the actuator in front.