How to Change Tranny Oil/Filter -- 1994 Montero SR
 

Greetings. I am restoring a 1994 Montero SR and thought I would post pictures and the steps I have undertaken while doing various repairs/restoration work. I am currently draining/flushing and adding a new tranny filter and will post more pics and a description of the problems I encountered during the process.

First, lets see if my pictures will upload and post before I write too much.

Here is my 94 Montero SR:


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...e9db9c965d.jpg

Now for a description of what I encountered and the steps I had to go through to drain/replaice the tranny filter:
As the pic below shows, I first had used floor jacks at the cross member base area, which runs right behind the rear of the tranny pan:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...2e60e1fbd5.jpg

Upon inspection, I realized that there was no way to remove the three rear tranny pan bolts unless the cross member was removed:


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...d342cd630c.jpg

I checked the thick Shop Manual, but it had NOTHING in it regarding removal of the pan and replacement of the filter. It only stated how to "drain" the fluid and add fresh.

At first, I was going to remove those two rear motor mount/tranny mount bolts, but realized that I should have a jack supporting the tranny to prevent any "sagging" and potential problems:

(I will post this, and if all the pics and the post goes through properly, then I will continue)

OK, posts seem to be working good now. Continuing the tranny work:

After putting the hydraulic jack under the tranny and putting a bit of up pressure on it, those 2 long tranny/motor mount bolts came out easy. Then I removed the 8 bolts holding the cross member in place:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...ef0aa0f4e0.jpg

And out comes the cross member:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...2193665a56.jpg

Then, this hanger needs to be removed......2 bolts holding it in place:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...e3ba381af8.jpg

Now I can easily get to those 3 rear tranny pan bolts:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...a2927f526d.jpg

Had to remove a bolt holding the tranny fill tube.....must be done before taking the pan screws out and trying to drop the pan.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...964ea9a56d.jpg

I also thought that this upper tube bolt had to be removed, but found out later that the tube splits in the middle and this upper bolt can be left in place:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...01b4b5d6ae.jpg

I had already removed the drain plug and drained the fluid yesterday after driving and getting the fluid warm. Big Thanks to Mitsubishi for putting a tranny drain plug in, as most car makers are too cheap to do this.

The 19 bolts are removed and the drain came down. However, it was stuck in place too good, and I had to spray PB Blast along the edges and gradually pry and finally I could tap in a putty knife, and from there she gradually released. Pan still had about a quart of fluid in, even after draining. I think that sitting overnight allowed more fluid to drain from the cooler and upper chambers.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...7eba295ad7.jpg

Question for the experts: This pan had orange RTV type silicone as the gasket. Is this how it came from the factory, or was a rubber gasket originally installed at the factory?

A fair amount of muck along the bottom of the pan. Those 6 flat magnets also did their job and had alot of metal "muk" adhered to them:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...9b2a2318d9.jpg

To be continued..........................

Continued:

Here is the old tranny filter: You can see some fine particles stuck in the filter paper:
(Note: this tranny has been shifting and working perfectly)

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...45419625ea.jpg

Alot of crapola in the pan and on the magnets......I am definately glad that I went through this process instead of just "draining and refilling" as described in the Shop Manual:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...a6fd7deeca.jpg

Instead of using a flat metal putty knife, I found that a wire brush on a drill did a great job of tearing away the old RTV silicone:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...fcc4c112ac.jpg

Pan cleaned:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...b04c117628.jpg

Magnets cleaned and 4 more super strong magnets added for good measure:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...8736e863ae.jpg

Removing the old tranny filter: I was surprised that a good amount of fluid started pouring out after loosening some of the screws: Definately have a pan ready to catch more fluid:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...93b4e5488f.jpg

Old filter off:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...79db71206b.jpg

Got about half quart out when the filter was removed:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...6cabeed316.jpg

Rubber gasket put on the filter/grease smeared on both sides, and then bolted back in place. Do not want to tighten these screws too much, just snug them up, and tighten from the inside and work your way outward like you do head bolts.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...ed453293a2.jpg

To be continued:

Continued:

I put some grease on the pan, layed down the rubber gasket, and smeared a bit more on top of the gasket, and then fit it into place:
(I got carried away and used official Mitsubishi KamaKazzi Red paint on the bolts):

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...b406def9cd.jpg


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...35c39cf43e.jpg

Then I poured all the old tranny fluid into old containers to measure how much came out, and then poured about the same amount back in. I used Castoil Transmax:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...ce85d35eac.jpg

Using that funnel with a clear rubber hose on the end allowed me to add about 8 quarts without spilling a drop: (I hate those narrow tranny filler holes).

Probably would not have hurt to add a couple flasks of that Premier Protein drink...ha ha.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...861d811760.jpg

Then I traced the 2 lines going to the front tranny fluid cooler so I could loosen the input line and crank up the engine in Neutral and pump out a couple quarts of dirty fluid:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...00faed2c82.jpg

The lower line is the one which pumps the fluid from the tranny to the cooler:

I put a container to catch the fluid that drained from the cooler:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...c87450c02f.jpg

I put a rubber hose on the "pumper" line and flopped the other end into a bucket. I managed to slide a 1/4" rubber hose into the return line and flopped that into the bucket also (just in case it decided to drain more).

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...563598bab2.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...04e6aa52c2.jpg

I put the tranny into Neutral and then cranked up the engine, and it quickly pumped out about 3 quarts of pretty dirty fluid: So now the system will have alot cleaner fluid as opposed to just doing a quick "drain and refill".

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...5827a2e28d.jpg

Now I just need to sand/prime/paint the cross-member and skid plates and install. Then do a test drive and check the level and add the final amount of tranny fluid.

Has anyone else done their own tranny change before? I must say that having to remove that cross member made it almost a show-stopper for me. In addition, it seems that Mitsubishi preferred their mechanics to just do a quick "drain and refill" as this is all they detail in the big shop manual. Maybe their engineers were a bit embarrassed that they designed this rig without an easy way to remove the tranny pan......and they decided to just not discuss it in the shop manuals.

Comments?
Hope this helps others.
Good day mate........have a "crackin good time" when you do your tranny filter change.

If you do transmission fluid change in the future, reverse your steps a little - fist disconnect the hose and pump out as much fluid as you can while vehicle is in neutral. Then drain remainder from the pan. This procedure will empty the torque converter off old fluid and you have less fluid to deal with in the pan. Additionally, once you refill with new fluid - you'll have 95-99% new fluid in the system. And you don't have to guess how much you need to top off.

Hunter.....thanks for the tips. Wish I had known this before doing the change, but at least I can do it right next time.

Any ideas as to why Mitsubishi failed to outline the procedure in their official Shop Manuals?

Do you think most shops failed to ever replace tranny filters in these Monteros due to the amount of work needed to remove the pan? Maybe alot of owners "thought" they were getting filter changes but never did.

Actually the procedure I described is the one outlined in the FSM for 2001 Montero. They actually recommend to replace fluid but not to to replace the filter, unless there are issues with transmission and you are doing a transmission rebuild.

OK, you got the flush procedure from the 2001 Montero "FSM". (I guess that stands for Full Service Manual?)
I have the thick 2 volume 1992 - 1994 Mitsibushi Service Manual for the Montero, and they had nothing on how to do the filter change/flush.......only a quick few sentences on draining the tranny fluid and just refilling.

By the way, did they change the design after 1999 to allow removal of the tranny pan without tearing out the cross-member tranny support?

Seems not to be much of a Montero following at this site......I was thinking I would get more comments and replies from other Montero owners. Doesnt give one much enthusiasm to continue to create "How Tos" with tons of pictures if no one seems to care. Maybe they are just all on vacation.

Yes - FSM is Factory Service Manual. I'm not sure how the Montero Sport transmission is set up, the Full size Montero stating from 2001 has clear access to the transmission pan.

There are few of us still here following this forum fairly regularly. I think FB and Instagram took many of users away :)
Keep showing up and posting. You'll get to know the regulars.

Hunter......OK, FSM "Factory Service Manual", got it. Maybe Mits changed the design in later years so the tranny cross member did not have to be removed....perhaps from complaints from mechanics doing the tranny service.

Shame that alot of this site's posters have disappeared.....maybe they will return. I also did a full restoration of my antique 1968 Case 580CK tractor/backhoe and the Case forum had a ton of superb people who were also restoring their old Case equipment and they helped each other to the nth degree.....amazing guys there.

Got the cross member/skid pans sanded/primed/painted:

Cross member before:


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...38ce3cf7f3.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...b7f1a6def3.jpg



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...eb6c3aca5a.jpg

Hope to get them all assembled back soon, probably after changing the all the differential fluids.

Bye the way, does anyone have a good source for the tranny skid pan (91 - 99 Montero)? Apparently a mechanic in years gone by took it off to do service, and never put it back on.

That looks sharp. Do you want to do mine :)
If you have access to a sheet metal bending machine, you can make your own skid plate. I had to make one for my engine after the wimpy plastic thing fell off. Just used a sheet of 3/16 steel (I think that's the thickness, perhaps less) that i had around. Its heavy as heck, but its not going anywhere and it really protects the bottom of the engine.

Hunter......Thanks for the thumbs-up. Sure, bring your rig on over and we can knock it out.......I will let you do all the removal, degreasing, sanding/prepping, and then I will shoot the paint on. Its a dirty job, but someone's gotta do it.....ha ha.

Im thinking the mechanic who works on this rig years down the road will appreciate the clean working environment down under.

Good idea about making a skid plate......I thought about it, but if I can find a used one from a salvage yard, it will bolt right up and be original equipment. I probably should just drive by a tranny shop, and there will probably a bunch stacked up like pancakes out back.......they get taken off and not put back on and tossed in a big pile.........dern knuckleheads.

As it happens, it would be the same person who has to clean and sand the stuff :)
BTW, not to presume much, but do you happen to have a Studebaker Hawk? Photos please. My daughter loves the look of Studebaker with the "turbine" on the nose. I'm on the lookout for one that can be made into a daily driver.

Hunter......When you ask me about Studebaker Hawks, you are opening a huge can of worms......I could end up talking forever about all the old Hawks I have owned/restored over the years, and this site may get angry at the change of topic from Mitsibushi Montero to Studebaker Hawks. I guess we could call it a Mitsubishi Studebaker Hawk, and we might get away with it for awhile. Ha ha. Since Mitsubishi made thousands of those famous WWII Zero fighters, anyone can see that a Hawk and a Zero fighter are highly related. In fact, I would stick my neck out and say that the Mitsubishi Hawk would have been a much preferable name over the Zero.......so much in fact, that surely Japan would have been victorious with a sky full of Hawks.

I have owned almost all years.....from 1956 to 1962....Gold Hawks and Silver Hawks. Beautiful cars, and way ahead of their time. The 56 had the huge and heavy Packard V8 351 and had a turbo-charged option. On a straight line race, it was the fastest production car for 56 and 57. But not as good racing on curvy mountain roads.....too much weight up front and the rear end could slip out and surprise the over-zealous driver.

Its best to find one that has already been restored so you dont have to spend a fortune bringing it up to par. They are out there, but you really have to be looking around for a good amount of time to find one at a decent price. $10k - $30k is a general range for a nice one, but sometimes they will pop-up on C.List for a lower price. If you find one for sale and have interest in it, feel free to email me the details/pics and I will give you my opinion.

Tranny Fluid/Filter Change update:

Got the cross member mounted and tranny is now resting back on the proper rubber mounts:
I plan to sand/paint the entire frame this summer, so properly painting the cross member now was well worth the time (since I had to remove it anyway).

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...4481949efe.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...16469d0d6b.jpg

While doing the tranny fluid change, it makes sense to knock out all the front diff, the transfer case, and the rear pumpkin now since all the skid plates are off.

Changing the front diff:


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...a86d65ca8f.jpg

Draining Transfer Case:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...e4cb2b433a.jpg

All three differential boxes had a plug with a magnetic shaft, and they were doing their job as you can see in the pic a super thick layer of metalic sludge about 1/4" thick:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...5f789a87f6.jpg

After wiping off magnetic plug:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...5d13ecd5af.jpg

After draining the thick oil out, I then injected about a pint of diesel fuel into the 3 transfer cases, put the plugs back in place, cranked up the engine, and let the car run in 4 wheel drive to slosh the diesel fuel around iniside the cases. This helped get all the grime out of the cases:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...81a299be7c.jpg

Front diff:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...c2585456bd.jpg

Had to use a hose for the Transfer case to inject the diesel fuel:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...89356431ee.jpg

Diesel fuel came out pretty dirty, so it did its job:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...62c03e2811.jpg

Tilted the Montero a bit to allow the rear Pumpkin to drain its innards a bit easier:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...40e811608a.jpg

Another krud-incrusted magnetic plug:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...35c3c680ff.jpg

Some pretty knaley kruddy sludge came out, but no Pumpkin Seeds:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...e6c1b735e0.jpg

Question for the experts: Do these magnetic plugs typically look like this when changing these fluids every 50,000 miles? I dont have the maintenance history on this rig, and am guessing they were never changed and the clock now sets right at 100,000 miles (low for a 25 year old MitsieBitsie).

Not an expert, but this is exactly what you want to see - light fuzz and no large chunks of any kind. The crud you see on magnetic plugs is just the metal wearing off the contact patches on the gears. The crud itself is not an indicator of any issues.

Hunter.....Yep, I totally agree with you. I was just curious if there was a long-time mechanic who did these diff. changes all the time......and if this looks like the first change in 100,000 miles, or maybe just looks like all his diff. changes (30,000k, 50,000k, etc.).

The good thing is that there was no water in the fluids.....so prior owners were not swimming the old gal in bug holes and 3 foot deep wambat holes. (Any of you ever watch the excellent Youtube videos "4WD Action"? Superb video quality and some amazing off-roading.....and great campsite cooking.......for a crackin-good time, go check them out).

Wrapped her up today......Got all the skid pans put back on:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...0559e22350.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...a510d95567.jpg

I am missing the skid pan that protects the tranny oil pan......does anyone know if this was standard equipment, or a special order option? (There are threaded holes on the frames for one).


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...c851ad4327.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...29abf07ab7.jpg


While I was "down under", I decided to clean up those 4 torsion rod rubber boots, and pulled them back, cleaned them up a bit, and applied fresh grease inside the boots. This ensures they dont seize up, and keeps those 4 friction points lubed and reduces wear. Would have been nice to have grease fittings there, but se la veh. Also spotted the 4 grease fittings on the drive shafts and pumped a good amount of grease there. Factory Shop Manual showed where to lube the torsion bar key adjuster bolt, which has a rubber block that needs lube......some used differential oil was all she got this time. (See long threaded bolt in next pic.....just pour a good amount of oil on that bolt and let it ooze down into the rubber bushing area).


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...82b6e44494.jpg

Now on to other resto work on this old rig.

Transfer case lube
 

Hey Hawk, please tell me that you filled the transfer case with GL4 lube, not GL5, or any that says GL4/GL5 compatible! If you did, you are really going to want to get that stuff out of there before you ruin your synchros (they allow us to shift into 4hi at speeds up to 100 km/hr)!

Hey MarkRobert61.......Here is a pic of the gallon jug I used for the front diff and the rear pumpkin, and the smaller quart container of Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W90 I used in the Transfer Case.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...d928ed55c7.jpg

Up close.......this is API GL5, which is what is specified in the Shop Manual/Owners Manuals. Is there anything wrong with using this? Why should I use GL 4 when the manuals say GL 5? Help me here, as I wont be able to sleep until I know that Im not destroying the Transfer Case.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...d5f0b4f01e.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...9bcc866563.jpg

Gl4
 

Ok, this gets a little technical: GL5 is a superior high pressure lube, but therein lies the problem. Under the pressure of the gear engagement a sacrificial layer is formed on the face of the gear teeth by the lube. As the teeth slide apart, this layer will shear off instead of the steel wearing. The problem is that Montys have synchromesh transfer cases. The synchronizer gears are made of brass, bronze maybe, and the sacrificial layer that forms has a stronger bond to the surface than the actual strength of the brass itself. Every time the shearing occurs, it takes a little brass with it. One of the guys on the 4x4 Wire had his synchros wear completely out in just a few months, the oil was iridescent gold when he drained it.

By the way, if you get a fluid spec printout from O'Reilly, it shows GL5 for the pumpkins and GL4 for the transfer case.

Gl4
 

By the way, the synthetics all say GL4/5 compatible, which is true for non synchro boxes, but only NON-synchro.

Markrobert61.......OK, I just checked the Owners Manual again.......and after reading that small fine print, you are right. It states that the Transfer Case takes GL4 75W90. I used GL5 75W90......dern it!

So, if I do not "shift on the fly" when engaging into 4x4, will this be a non-issue?

I usually buy from Advance Auto, and they do not have much to choose from. What brand do you use, and where do you buy it?

Gl4
 

Sta-Lube is the only one I have found. Napa usually has it on the shelf, it's only 2 quarts, so a gallon will do you for a long long time.

Gl4
 

Amazon looks like they carry it too.

Marks......Thanks.....I will check the price and will order some. But back to my other question......If I only shift into the 4x4 ranges when stopped, will this prevent that gear wear you were talking about (with the GL5 oil in the Transfer Case)?

Shifting GL4
 

I would think that only shifting while stopped would certainly minimize or eliminate synchro wear. There is a school of thought that says leave the rig in AWD all of the time... not that much fuel savings in 2WD...

Mark.......Good......I will not "shift on the fly" as long as I have that GL5 in the Transfer Case.

Leaving in 4x4 mode all the time......well, mabe if you out on the trails, but dont want to do that on the highway....just unnecessary wear/tear in my opinion, plus more "binding" on drive system.

AWD all of the time
 

Not an issue since we have a viscous center differential on these baby's, just one piece of the legendary and superlative Super Select drive system! I like the idea of keeping everything stirred up in the front axle and transfer case, lol!

Gotta love that vicious (mean/bad-ass/bad to tha ba-ba-ba-bone) center differential on these babies.......you seem to know your stuff about these, and I will have to learn more with time. Yep, lets keep all that GL5 nice and stirred-up.......ha haaaaaa.

Lol!!! Love these things!
 

Amazing!

Didn't know about GL5. Great advice, thanks for sharing. Marksroberts61 is 100% correct on the AWD system on our Monteros. It is designed for working on pavement. Plus, the manual actually specifies to have vehicle in 4H (AWD mode) whenever you are towing a trailer. I guess it spreads torque and stresses to all wheels instead of trying to twist just two half-axles.

Good info. for sure.

2002 montero ticking
 

I am a female,(just so you could maybe explain to a dummy. lol) I just bought this 2002 montero xls the former owner did not take care of this car at all. Car is ticking/tapping has 208,000 miles. My question to you or somebody I changed oil and filter, air filter, pvc, spark plugs all fluids are topped off. I tried the vla adjustment didnt work, maybe just a little it did. I gave up after 10 times. The timing belt also seemed a little loose....idk im frustrated, and out of money HELP...Thanks:confused:

PattyRice.......What is a VLA adjustment? Did you remove all the covers to access the timing belt? Maybe someone else with an early 2000 Montero can help.......I own 1994 Monteros.

VLA is Valve Lash Adjuster. Newer Mobteros have hydraulic valve lash adjusters. If engine was run low on oil, or VLA are getting old, they get air inside them and compress a bit. That creates a gap between rocker arm and top of the valve. That results in "ticking" noise that is audible. There is a VLA bleed procedure that helps to re-pressurize VLAs. It solves the ticking noise, unless VLA is actually gone bad.

What grade of engine oil are you running? How much vakve ticking do you get? Is it worse with cold engine in the morning and gets better with engine ruining/higher rpm?

Hunter....Interesting, I did not know about the hydraulic valve lash adjusters. So, this is not on my 94 Montero, and only started after about 2000? Reason I am asking is that one of my 94 Monteros does have a ticking sound, and right now I am just running a couple quarts of Marvel Mystery Oil with the normal oil, seeing if that might help with time. If it does apply to my 94s, then I will dig into the Shop Manual and try to understand the bleeding procedure/adjustment procedures.

Hey StudebakerHawk, I think your Montero should have valve lash adjusters. Japanese manufacturers started using them long time ago. For example, my '84 Honda bike has them... From what I can see, Rockauto and couple other parts suppliers I use, do list VLAs (they call them valve lifters for both 3.0 and 3.5l engines for '94 year model. 3.5l version looks a little different from 3.0l and from later years, so I can't confirm that the bleed procledure is the same.

It is a 2002 Montero xls..It ticks/taps....Ive tried marvel mystery oil with oil change, I also tried the vla didnt work either. My friend took the timing cover off he said belt felt loose...idk i think i definately got screwed...I just bought the car for $1,900 2 weeks ago. I havent been able to drive it at all...I'm so bummed. Also the cel is on and P0300 and P0335 P0400....Anyone want to buy it..lol AND IT RUNS LIKE CRAP....H E L P