Anyone know a differant method of torque 'ing this thing?? Please help asap!

 

i use needle nose pliers

 

I did not use the tool and all is well 5k miles later. Getting the belt on was a mother - a 2 person job. One person held the tension pulley while I snaked it over the OHC pulleys.....

 

I replaced the pulley..So it and the hydraulictensioner are totally removed..So installing the belt isn't the problem..

 

I use needle nose pliers too.

 

SO how exactly did you get it to 5 Nm if you used needle nose pliers ??? Too little or too much tension will result in ticking valves, it must be exactly 5Nm.. I'm using the correct tool "MD 998767" with a needle point tension wrench at 5Nm and I'm still having a hard time getting it right, as you hold the tension at 5Nm and tighten the locking bolt it alters the tension reading.. You have to be able to slide the retaining pin in the tensioner in and out easily, the closest I got was it would go back in with a little push, I started the car it ran fine for about 5 seconds then started to tap like crazy, I checked the retaining pin again and it wouldn't go all the way through it was just a Mick hair off yet it still tapped like a type writer..
It's got me stuffed why Mitsubishi didn't just put a locating pin in the pulley wheel so all you have to do is put the wheel on and tighten it down with no adjustment necessary...
​​​​​​Too much tension will chew out all your bearings (water pump, cam shafts, idler pulleys, tensioner pulley and the main crank bearings) too little tension will make the belt slip teeth and possibly put a valve through your pistons....
DO NOT USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS YOU WILL NOT GET THE TENSION CORRECT, DON'T BE A CHEAP SKATE PAY THE $30-40 AND BUY THE TOOL....
​
Recap.. Don't buy the tool, I've found an easy way..
As I stated I have the special tool and I was still struggling to get it right well I ended up ditching the tool and went for a bit of logic..
I made a small wooden wedge that I could lodge between the tensioner wheel and the raised striker plate which the tensioner pin sits against, I then opened the bolt holding the wheel on the swing arm so it would slide slightly when I tapped the wedge.. When there's enough tension to hold the tensioner pin in place so to slide the lock pin out and back in easily then tighten the wheel bolt down... It should be at tension..
Wind over by hand a few revolutions n check the lock pin by trying to slide it back in all the way easily...
Put your engine back together....

 

The best option is to get the tensioner tool. You can get a cheeper aftermarket version. Just search Amazon for Mitsubishi Tensioner Tool.
You CAN get the job done with the needlenose pliers. You just have to tension the pulley to the point where the pin on the tensioner spins and moves freely. It should just slip out without any effort. That is the right tension level. Whether you're using the tool or pliers do not pull the pin if it has any resistance