Synopsis of problem is it appears my timing belt is off by one tooth on the Driver Side cam, so I have to remove and resinstall it properly and also torque the adjustable tensioner pulley correctly.

But anyways, I got the crank pulley back on/torqued and when I manually turned it over 4-5 times to check timing it was off. The Lower timing (on crank pulley) and Left Side cam timing marks are in sync, but it's obvious the Driver Side Cam timing pulley is one tooth off.

1. What is the proper procedure to remedy this? Is it remove belt completely, turn the Driver Side cam pulley one tooth in right direction, and then start rehanging the belt keeping it all in check? Is it the same pulley/idler install procedures (and pulley/idler order) as the 3.5L motor?

2. What or where can I find the Tensioner Pulley setting procedures regarding the little 2-pronged tool I bought? I'm not sure if it's exact same procedures as 2002 3.5L model directions. The 2002 3.5L procedures say to torque Tensioner Pulley clockwise to 39 in-lb and then tighten the Tensioner Pulley Center Bolt to 35 ft-lb.

Thanks for assist! Any guidance appreciated. I'm stuck.

 

Don't know about the differences between the 3.8 and 3.5.

The tensioner pulley bolts to a lever arm, one leg of which engages the tensioner. The tensioner is initially compressed and locked in place with the grenade pin. If you look close, the grenade pin is a smaller diameter wire compared to the hole in the tensioner body and the tension plunger. Thus, when loaded, the grenade pin is offset to one side of the hole since the plunger is trying to push out.

The two prong tool engages the holes in the face of the tensioner pulley. The pulley bolt hole is eccentric to the center of the pulley. The tool and torque spec results in the eccentric action compressing the plunger on the tensioner as it is tightening the belt. It is a balancing act. If the applied torque is correct, then the plunger will be compressed slightly so that the grenade pin can be freely removed.

See post 89 https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...l-48920/page9/

 

OK I get the tensioner and tensioner pulley procedure. I bet the torque is the same because all the parts and belt are.

If my driver-side cam sprocket timing mark is off by one tooth (I think the cam pulley mark is one tooth to the left of the motor timing mark) can I simply slip the belt off that cam sprocket and turn the cam very slightly to get it in place as I slide the belt back on?

 

With the belt slack you should be able to do as you suggest. On my 3.5, the cam marks are on the valve cover lips while the crank mark is on the oil pump.

 

I follow the manual with help of my more experienced friendly mechanic and we found it one-half (1/2) tooth off on one SOHC (originally the driver side Cam sprocket). We turned it about 26 times checking each time and same thing, but the 'off' Cam would flip flop on every other turn.

With the original belt it would turn and be 'on time' on one or the other Cam Sprocket, and always 'on' with the Crankshaft.

Removed old belt and reinstalled because it was like new and same length as new belt I had on standby. And still the same! It ran just fine like that. So my guess is the timing marks may be a little off? What do you think?

 

Well it runs fine so I'm freakn glad. I think my unit has a flaw in the timing notches. About a half a tooth. Did it three times and that was enough. Purrs like an underpowered heavy family wagon again.

I have four Monteros and two more need timing kit packages. I'm glad I bought the double-pin tensioner pulley tool...best one I saw was on eBay, hardened steel, USA made, $20 delivered.

Does anyone have a source for a good Crank Sprocket special tool? I used a homemade tool that was not ideal...a short breaker bar that had a welded spot on it to brace against the inside of crank pulley as I torqued it. I have to get a better sprocket tool, and I'm not sure if a cam tool exists for a SOHC.

Any other special tools that come in handy for top end motor work?

 

Attached are some pictures of improvised crankshaft pulley holding tools that I found on the internet. I thought I would need to make one for my engine rebuild project.

The last picture is for a Toyota Camry, so the dimensions may be off but the concept should work.

The manual shows the factory tool MB991800 which you can see many images of if you search it
https://www.google.com/search?q=MB99...9RRGG1vDcPM%3A

My engine is removed for a rebuild. I plan on using a homemade version of the flywheel stopper tool MD998781 to enable torquing of the flex plate to the crank as well as installation of the crank pulley.
https://www.google.com/search?q=MB99...ywheel+stopper

Lastly, I will be installing a revised crank pulley bolt 1100A141 with washer MR994412. The new style bolt is shorter. Not sure why it was superseded but if you search, you will find many instances of broken crank bolts that are snapped off in the crank forcing engine rebuild. I suspect the bolt revision and failures are related.

 

Thanks! I have a 2003 Limited with 3.8L. The bolt/washer looks just like the bolt in the left of your photo. I wonder how many years that poor bolt design was used? I was surprised mine has that one. I'll have to check and buy new bolts for any of mine when I do the timing belt changes.

I've got two 2001 XLS, 2002 Limited and 2003 Limited. I hope they all use the same bolts and pulleys.

The new bolt almost looks like the threads are different. But they must be the same eh? Did you decide to replace your crank pulley also?

 

I will reuse the pulley.

 

I called a couple of Mitz service places and they won't sell the crank pulley holding special tool.

Think these modified vice grips will work if I want ready made and more versatile for other pulleys?

It seems to suggest can fit holes up to 4" apart. That sufficient?

OTC 4803. $55 delivered from one online store.