Next I proceeded to install the cylinder heads. Note that the rocker shafts are not installed at this time so all of the valves are fully seated.

The crankshaft was rotated to TDC for Cylinder 1.

I used Fel-Pro PermaTorque MLS Head Gaskets 26193PT which came in the Fel-Pro Cylinder Head/Head Gasket Set HS26193PT. I also used new Fel-Pro cylinder head bolts ES72859.

The gasket surfaces were repeatedly cleaned with lint free rags and brake clean until the rags remained unsoiled. I torqued the head bolts per sequence in 3 passes (25, 50, 80 ft-lbs).

The service manual says that after torquing the cylinder head bolts, to loosen the bolts, then retighten them. Does anyone know if I should do this for the Fel-Pro PermaTorque MLS Head Gaskets?

Edit 3/22/16: I called the Fel-Pro hot line 1-800-325-8886 and they confirmed to follow the manual to loosen head bolts after torquing. I will loosen them in the reverse order of torquing. Once fully loose, will retorque in 3 passes to 80 ft-lbs.

 

Next I installed the water pipe.

The water pipe runs inside the vee and connects to the back of the water pump.

I removed the old O-ring, scrubbed the pipe with Scotch Brite and Dawn soap. The service manual says to not oil the O-ring and instead wet the O-ring with water and install it.

I cleaned the water pump bore one last time and inserted the wet o-ring into the bore.

 

Next I installed the camshaft thrust plates and seals.

The thrust plates have an O-ring seal to the cylinder head. The thrust plates are not interchangeable between the cylinder heads (different depth and bolt pattern).

My passenger side seal was brittle but had not yet failed. The driver's side seal had failed and the prior hack garage had tried to fix it with black RTV.

I used OEM O-rings part number MN176208. These do not come in the Fel-Pro head gasket kit. Probably the reason the hack garage did not replace them during the prior head gasket issue they "fixed".

I cleaned the thrust plates with a pick and degreased in the parts washer. I then soaked them in the Berryman's Chem dip for 2 hours and they came out nice and bright.

Lubed the plates and O-rings with 30W oil and slipped the O-rings into the grooves. Lubed the cylinder head bores with 30W and then inserted the thrust plates into position.

Note that the water pipe is secured by one bolt on the passenger thrust plate and one bolt on the driver's cylinder head.

 

Next I installed the crankshaft timing belt pulley and crankshaft position sensor.

The Woodruff key from the original crank was removed and installed in the remanufactured crankshaft. The pulley with integral timing wheel was cleaned in the parts washer, dried, and then the bore lubed with 30W and slid into position.

The crankshaft position sensor was cleaned with contact cleaner, bolted in place, the metal wiring bracket bolted into position, and lastly, the grommet was mated with the timing belt cover on the driver's side cylinder head.

FYI - The crankshaft position sensor is magnetic.

 

Next I installed the pulleys.

These are Koyo brand and came as part of the AISIN timing belt kit. The removed ones were also Koyo.

The tensioner arm was disassembled and thoroughly cleaned in the parts washer. The sleeve was lubed with 30W oil.

 

Cleaned the intake manifold. It was quite filthy. Not sure if this is normal for a 150k engine or not. Makes me concerned regarding the cleanliness of the upper intake. I will be installing a new PCV valve as part of the rebuild.

Removed the fuel rail and injectors and soaked the manifold in the parts washer over night. Scrubbed the ports with a brush to remove as much of the deposits as possible. Most of the deposits came off via scrubbing but the ports still remained quite stained.

I have an air tool spray wand that is inductor based to soak up cleaning solutions. Instead I cut the end of its pickup hose at 45 degrees and taped it to a rod and inserted it into a box of baking soda. I then used it to blast the ports spotless. Afterwards, the manifold was scrubbed in hot soapy water with Dawn soap.

Edit 7/10/16 - mileage at failure was actually 173,875 not 150k

 

The manual shows the use of a special tool MD998767 to tension the belt prior to tightening the bolt for the eccentric on the tensioner pulley. Well I don't have that tool so I decided to make one.

I used a small piece of angle iron and two 16 penny finishing nails. I cut two 1" lengths of angle iron, filed the inside corners to a sharp 90 degree angle, then cut the legs off one piece and nested it in the other to make the square 1/4" drive female socket, clamped the pins and angles into position, and welded all together.

Now lets hope it works!

 

Next I proceeded to install the lower intake manifold. The gasket surfaces on the heads and manifold were cleaned with brake clean and lift free rag.

The manual specifies that the gaskets have a protrusion that needs to be oriented properly (these are circled in the picture). The nuts use a spring type washer. The manual specifies the bolt tightening sequence and torque.

I also temporarily installed the valve covers as the covers have the timing marks which will be needed to install the timing belt. The rocker shafts are not yet installed; they will be installed after the cams are properly timed and have been thoroughly cleaned.

 

Next I installed the timing belt using the procedure outlined in the manual. The rocker arms are still removed which meant the cams easily rotated so care was needed to keep them properly timed.

I did not have the crank positioning tool called out in the manual but was able to use a 22 mm socket on the crank bolt. Engine rotated easy due to the lack of plugs and no rockers activating valves.

The cam belt tensioning tool I made worked very well. As you apply torque to the pulley, the eccentric of the pulley forces the tensioner arm against the plunger of the hydraulic tensioner. This forces the plunger slightly back into its bore. If properly done, the forced retraction of the plunger is just enough so that the grenade pin is freely removed (see video). Lastly I measured the plunger protrusion after pin removal and it was in spec.

 

Sorry for the lack of recent updates. Other chores getting into the way of working on this thing. Thankfully its not a primary vehicle.

I finally removed some of the VLA's from the rockers. My plan had been to clean them all per the procedure in the manual (stroking and cleaning in separate diesel baths A, B, C, etc) and reuse.

I used a magnetic tool to pull the VLA from the rocker and hold it.

The very first one I removed (exhaust valve), I found that the seal has hard, brittle, and cracked. Seemed to have the same consistency as the valve stem seals which were toast. Gently touching it, the cap came off.

I used the 2.0 mm diameter grenade pin from the timing belt hydraulic tensioner to stroke the VLA's. It easily fit into the hole and the inner portion. A recent thread somewhere mentioned that newer VLA's were 3 mm which were reportedly enlarged from prior years which had 1 mm, so I assume I have these. Supposedly the hole enlargement was done to reduce noise (no clue how true this is). Some of the VLA's moved smoothly, others seemed to catch then move.

I noticed small metal fragments from the spun rod bearings on the surfaces of the VLA's and I assume that the bearing fragments are probably inside the VLA's. That said, I'm ordering a new complete set of VLA's. Given what I've spent thus far and time for same, I will feel better with new ones.

Now to pick a brand....any recommendations? OEM's are quite expensive, about $20 each vs aftermarket at around $5 and 24 are needed so OEM ($480) vs aftermarket ($120).

Edit 4/14/16 - Well, I have ordered VLA's from Rock Auto. I went with DNJ brand. I surfed for reviews and found several positive reviews. The oil pump I have installed as part of this rebuild is also DNJ brand and it looks and feels to be well made. Time will tell.