Wilde - thanks for checking in.

I have no experience with the ENGINETECH VLA's and my experience with the DNJ VLA's is limited to that documented thus far and the few positive reviews I found on the net. RockAuto was sold out of the ENGINETECH brand at the time I ordered mine. The DNJ had a better warranty than the ITM ones which were also in stock. I perceived the better warranty (and slightly higher price) as better quality (right or wrong I don't know). Also, the oil pump I used is from DNJ and appears to be a quality piece, so I bought the DNJ VLA's.

The DNJ ones came prefilled. I would assume your ENGINETECH ones will as well but it is very easy to check. The difference in length between a collapsed one and a full one is approaching 3/16" so I would think it is best to ensure they are prefilled to aid startup to get full (or near full) valve lift. I agree I would think the oil pressure would fill them up, but there is a procedure to bleed them while the engine is running and that takes reving and idling the motor over a certain period so I think the filling is not instantaneous.

The rod knock was a very deep internal engine noise that increased and decreased with engine RPM. The engine ran and drove fine. I was confident that it was either a main bearing or a rod bearing. At idle, the knock was not constant but rather periodic and spaced apart. The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6. Given the spacing between the knock, this led me to believe it was a rod bearing vs a main bearing. I wish I had recorded the engine running and knocking.

Start a thread on your journey and keep us posted.

 

Proceeded onward to the passenger side.

I should have mentioned prior that I had to put the intake assembly in first, then the intake rocker shaft springs, followed by the exhaust rocker shaft assembly. If you don't do it in this order, you can't get the intake rocker shaft springs into position.

I had tried to have the intake rocker shaft springs on the shaft while fitting it to the head (as shown in prior pictures) but the spring tension was laterally shifting the rockers to interfer with the head pedestal mounts making it too difficult. Once the springs were removed, it was relatively easy to install the shafts. The springs snap into position on the shaft and the open end is towards the spark plug tube. I had to use a pick on the bottom side to coax the spring arms into position.

As you tighten the rocker shaft bolts, the cams start to push the valves open. Be mindful of this and hand tighten the bolts closest to the open valves first so you don't bend the shaft.

 

I decided to install the thermostat housing next.

Used Permatex High Tack on the gasket mating surfaces. Helps hold the gasket in position and aid sealing (I had bought it to fix my tractor crankcase gasket so I figured may as well use it here going forward). I had removed the thermostat for cleaning and it was reinstalled with the "joggle valve" up (not shown).

 

Next I decided to install the oil pickup.

I used a honing stone on the pickup gasket surface to remove the burrs and ensure a flat surface (not shown). I then cleaned the mating surfaces with brake cleaner till the surfaces were clean with no residue on a white rag (I do this on all the gasket surfaces).

Used Permatex High Tack and installed and torqued per specs.

A before picture for comparison thrown in for effect. Been a long road...

 

I proceeded next with the upper oil pan.

The baffle (windage tray) was bolted to the bottom of the pan and torqued to specs.

The gasket surfaces were cleaned, cleaned, and cleaned again with brake clean until the white rag remained white. It baffles me how what appears to be clean is not.

The bolts were cleaned using a wire wheel with the bolt head in a vice (engine was fully covered so as to prevent airborne contamination). From inspection, the factory used thread locker (red material on the bolts) so I also used Locktite. I used Right Stuff on the gasket surface (there is not a gasket here, only a sealant). Pan positioned into place and tapped with a rubber mallet, then torqued to spec in 3 passes. Visual inspection showed the Right Stuff oozed out all around so I feel that I got a good seal.

My pan was not drilled for Bolt 12 although the block was tapped at this location. This is the "ear" that I had broken off while trying to remove the pan prior to learning of the jack bolt method.

 

I proceeded next with the lower oil pan. Again, the gasket surfaces where cleaned and cleaned again with brake clean till no residue remained. Applied Right Stuff, then torqued per spec in 3 passes. Again, the Right Stuff oozed out nicely all around the flange so I feel good about the seal.

When torquing the various joints (head gaskets, pans, main bearing girdle, etc) I found it to be convenient to have a large printed copy of the bolt pattern from the manual at the ready.

 

Next I inspected the exhaust manifolds and started to clean them.

When I pulled the engine, the manifolds were still connected. I'm thinking on installing the driver's side manifold after the engine is in the car as there is an access cover there for improved access to the torque converter bolts. On engine removal, I had used an access cover at the bottom of the lower oil pan to access the torque converter bolts which was less then ideal.

Unfortunately, I found the passenger side manifold to be cracked between cylinder 3&5 on the log portion of the manifold. Coincidentally, the heat shield is also cracked in the same location. Now i need to source a new manifold.....

Edit 6/27/16 - Do yourself a favor and install the driver's side exhaust manifold while the engine is out. The torque converter bolt access really is worse as it is more difficult to install a wrench. Further, installing the driver's side exhaust manifold after the fact requires the engine mount to frame bolts be removed, engine jacked up, removal of the oil dipstick, bending the transmission dipstick tube towards the fender, and removal of the EGR pipe from the manifold all just to get the manifold on. Then tightening of the manifold nuts is difficult due to poor access, some of which I reached thru the wheel well.

 

The plastic timing covers have a groove and a square type gasket/seal is inserted.

The gasket/seal on mine is hard, brittle, and largely gone.

Anyone know of a source for these?

I would like to put the gasket/seal back in to aid in keeping crap off the belt.

Putting installation of these covers on hold till I can find the gasket/seal.

Edit 5/12/16

Finally found a diagram and part numbers for the timing cover gaskets. Many individual gaskets each sold separately. Unfortunately, when checking with MitsubishiParts.com many of these are now discontinued, but you can buy new covers with gaskets installed (no thank you).

Found that Parts Geek listed Ishino Stone Timing Cover Gasket with a left and right part number, but nothing for the bottom cover. The image for the Ishino part is a cord stock which gave me an idea. 02 2002 Mitsubishi Montero Sport Timing Cover Gasket - Engine Mechanical - DNJ Rock, Ishino Stone, VR Gaskets, Left - PartsGeek

McMaster-Carr sells o-ring cord stock. I measured the grooves in the timing covers and they measure 4 mm. Surfing their catalog, I found Part Number 1216N7 which is a 4.5 mm square cord stock made from Buna-N which is rated for contact with petroleum products, temperature range from -25 to 212 F, and a Durometer of 70. Perfect! I ordered 10' as I measured that I would need about 6'. They do offer a Viton version with a much higher temperature limit but significantly more expensive. I paid $11.65 total ($4.70 for cord stock and $6.95 for shipping).
McMaster-Carr

The cord stock fits snug in the groove due to the interference fit and conforms to the curves nicely. Took my time fitting it to the grooves and trimmed with a sharp razor. When done, I had slightly less than 4' left over, so the 10' purchase length was proper.

One more item done.

 

When I disassembled the engine, I had removed the intake with the injectors and rails as an assembly. On the reinstallation, I have already installed the intake to the heads, so next comes the injectors and fuel rails.

The parts were disassembled and cleaned in the parts washer. I then soda blasted the aluminum fuel rails followed by scrubbing with Simple Green Aircraft and Precision Parts Cleaner and blew the rails dry with compressed air.

The fuel injectors are Denso 195500-3300 and have many seals, only one of which comes with the FelPro head gasket kit. FelPro provides the upper o-ring which mates with the fuel rail. I found these o-rings to still be pliable and soft while all the other non-provided seals were cracked and crumbled. In particular, one of my injectors was missing the pintle cap and the insulator was cracked and ovaled so I'm sure it was a nice vacuum leak. Also, I found that all the electrical connectors had broken retainer clips. Thanks again prior hack garage.

I bought some parts from Mitsubishi for the injectors but the best source I found is Injector-Rehab Fuel Injector Cleaning Services

From top to bottom, the components are:
Filter - Injector Rehab Part Number 1-109
O-ring - I used the Felpro ones that came in the head gasket kit
Sheath/Grommet - Injector Rehab Part Number 3-138
Insulator - Mitsubishi Part Number MD087060
Pintle Cap - Injector Rehab Part Number 2-251

I put a screw in a vice to thread the injector on to then tug the filter out. New filter was inserted, pressed inward via downward pressure on the work table, followed by a light tap with a small hammer to seat the filter flush with the top. The o-ring was then put in place. At the other end, I used a razor knife to remove the old pintle cap, cleaned the barb areas, then pressed the cap into position (no heat was needed as some online sources say may be needed). Lastly, I put the insulator on but would later remove these to put in the manifold first.

The o-rings were lightly oiled, and the injectors positioned into their port. With the insulators in the manifold, the injector rail assembly was placed into position, all checked for proper alignment, bolts snugged, then torqued to spec.

I solved the broken electrical connectors via zip ties.

 

The crossover pipe bolts to the the back of the cylinder heads and is aluminum. I degreased it first in the parts washer, soda blasted it, then followed by scrubbing with the Simple Green Aircraft and Precision Parts Cleaner. Same process for the aluminum outlet fitting by the thermostat.

The water outlet pipe is steel with some sort of corrosion protective coating (Cad plating?). However, my pipe was starting to pit on the exterior. The pipe was cleaned same as the other parts but I wire wheeled it to try to address the pitting and also cleaned the o-ring groove via the wire wheel. Lastly the pipe was cleaned with Dawn soap, allowed to air dry, then painted with VHT high temperature aluminum color paint.

The crossover pipe FelPro gaskets are metal with bent retainer tabs and an offset tab. The retainer tabs clip onto the crossover flanges. I found the offset tab had to be pointing towards the passenger side so as to not conflict with the heads. I cleaned the gasket surfaces with a wire wheel, then used brake clean and white rags. The bolts were snugged then torqued to spec.

The o-rings are Mitsubishi MD030764 and are not provided in the FelPro head gasket kit. I used water on the o-rings, grooves, and bore and fitted the pipe to the crossover.

At the front, I cleaned the gasket surfaces with a wire wheel, brake clean with white rag. I used Permatex Hi-Tack on both surfaces. Placed the gasket into position, inserted the pipe with o-ring to the fitting, snugged the bolts into position, then torqued to spec. Finally, I installed the bolt at the pipe support bracket to the passenger cylinder head.