I have a rod or bearing knock and need to pull the engine.

Any link or details on step by step procedure? Its been about 20 years since I last pulled a motor for rebuild and it was a 1971 plymouth (very simple).

 

Your best bet would be to follow the "Why don't you have the manual" and "Montero Timing belt replacement" threads at the top of the forum. If you dig around there, you will find several links to various sites where you can download a PDF service manual. That will have pretty much all step by step procedures you need to follow. As an additional benefit, once you find a manual, you will have all the proper specs for your rebuild.

 

HunterD - thanks for pointing me to the "why don't you have the manual" thread. Downloaded the manual and will start reading up. Repair project is not the highest priority right now, but trying to get smart.

I have read thru the timing belt thread and it is quite informative with the detailed pictures.

 

Glad you found the manual. It is best to go to battle prepared Being well prepared and understand what you need to do is winning half the battle. Best of luck to you.

 

Starting into the tear down to find the source of the bearing knock.

Details on removing the engine can be found here https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...removal-47301/

Was surprised to find that the oil pan is two parts. Small stamped steel bottom pan which is the sump and an aluminum piece which bolts to the bottom of the engine.

With the sump removed, I was greeted by the oil pump strainer loaded with metallic debris. The aluminum piece is proving difficult to remove due to the factory sealant. Will need to keep working at it. Stay tuned....

 

Continued into the tear down over the weekend.

The aluminum upper oil pan was quite difficult to remove due to the extent of factory sealant on the flanges. Initially I tried to pry the edge of the pan with a thin scraper and broke a tab off the pan - DON'T DO THIS! Fortunately, the damage is inconsequential.

Thanks to the internet, I learned that the upper oil pan has two tapped holes near the rear. One side I used a 14mm bolt from the engine mounts and the other a 13mm bolt (why they are different I have no clue).

Installing jack bolts into these holes and tightening against the block forces the pan off the block. I used a scraper once there was a slight gap between the pan and block.

 

With the upper oil pan removed, I checked each of the rod bearings by feel to see if any had excess clearance. Well, the bearings for rods 1 & 2 both had excessive play and created the same knocking sound (play video clip) heard while running.

 

Continued into the tear down removing the intake and exhaust manifolds, accessory drive, cam timing covers, valve covers, heads, etc.

When removing the heads, discovered that each had missing "rocker spring retainer clips" on the rocker shaft. Passenger side clip was gone completely, while the drivers side had clip debris adjacent the valve spring. Perhaps these parts created debris leading to the bearing failures.

 

Rod bearings 1 & 2 had spun and the tabs to index into the grooves where gone. Bearings hammered and where wider than the rod.

Journals are lightly scored, hard to feel with finger nail. I am pretty certain this will clean up with machining to an undersize bearing.

 

Pistons for cylinders 1 & 2 have scuff marks on them. The oil control ring for piston 1 was seized in the groove. The cylinder walls still show the honing marks after 150k miles. Cylinder walls are visually scuffed corresponding to the piston marks yet cannot be felt with a finger nail.

Am hoping the block can be rehoned as-is so as to avoid boring and oversize pistons. Will let the machine shop make that determination.

Now off to find a good machine shop in the Northern VA area.

Edit 7/10/16 - mileage at time of bearing failure was actually 173,875, not 150k as stated