Mitsubishi Alternator Electrical Problems?
#2
2000-Mits- Montero Sport-4x4 Alternator electrical Problems?
Please Please Help
#3
Are you purchasing OEM parts?
How old is your battery?
Has the battery ever been drained seriously or multiple times?
Check the bolts that attach the alternator in place, and make sure there are no cracks in them. Although this usually results in only a drained battery, you may be straining your alternator repeatedly in order to charge the drained battery. This could be one possible reason for the short life span. While you're at it inspect and/or replace the alternator wiring.
Good Luck
How old is your battery?
Has the battery ever been drained seriously or multiple times?
Check the bolts that attach the alternator in place, and make sure there are no cracks in them. Although this usually results in only a drained battery, you may be straining your alternator repeatedly in order to charge the drained battery. This could be one possible reason for the short life span. While you're at it inspect and/or replace the alternator wiring.
Good Luck
#4
using oem alternator could be the difference. we have changed out many aftermarket alternators on the sports and the full size monteros. same issue. battery weakness can also kill an alternator. forcing it to charge full force at all times. test the battery and replace if it doesnt have at least 585 cca. one of the most common causes of alternator failure on the sports and the full size is oil intrusion. the cam seal on the right bank leaks and drips oil right onto the alternator and eventually kills it. mitsubishi WILL NOT warranty an alternator if it has been replaced with a factory one if oil got into it.
#5
using oem alternator could be the difference. we have changed out many aftermarket alternators on the sports and the full size monteros. same issue. battery weakness can also kill an alternator. forcing it to charge full force at all times. test the battery and replace if it doesnt have at least 585 cca. one of the most common causes of alternator failure on the sports and the full size is oil intrusion. the cam seal on the right bank leaks and drips oil right onto the alternator and eventually kills it. mitsubishi WILL NOT warranty an alternator if it has been replaced with a factory one if oil got into it.
#6
#7
Check and clean all your electrical connections, to include all the grounds. Add extra grounds, IE daisy chain the grounds for better electrical flow (bad or corroded grounds can cause allot of problems). Replace the battery every three years, clean the battery terminals every other month or so. Get an 85amp alternator with a three year warranty, as I did from Napa.
Now, exactly what does your alternator do to cause problems? Do you get the batt/brake light going through 2000/4000 rpm? What does a multimeter show what volts are on the terminals? It should be charging at 13.5-15volts. check the power wires that goto the alt, IE the plug that goes into the back, that is where the alternator gets it's 12v to flash the field to start generating power and control the output.
Now, exactly what does your alternator do to cause problems? Do you get the batt/brake light going through 2000/4000 rpm? What does a multimeter show what volts are on the terminals? It should be charging at 13.5-15volts. check the power wires that goto the alt, IE the plug that goes into the back, that is where the alternator gets it's 12v to flash the field to start generating power and control the output.
#8
Check and clean all your electrical connections, to include all the grounds. Add extra grounds, IE daisy chain the grounds for better electrical flow (bad or corroded grounds can cause allot of problems). Replace the battery every three years, clean the battery terminals every other month or so. Get an 85amp alternator with a three year warranty, as I did from Napa.
Now, exactly what does your alternator do to cause problems? Do you get the batt/brake light going through 2000/4000 rpm? What does a multimeter show what volts are on the terminals? It should be charging at 13.5-15volts. check the power wires that goto the alt, IE the plug that goes into the back, that is where the alternator gets it's 12v to flash the field to start generating power and control the output.
Now, exactly what does your alternator do to cause problems? Do you get the batt/brake light going through 2000/4000 rpm? What does a multimeter show what volts are on the terminals? It should be charging at 13.5-15volts. check the power wires that goto the alt, IE the plug that goes into the back, that is where the alternator gets it's 12v to flash the field to start generating power and control the output.
Thank You for the advise.
#9
After thinking about it I feel that you really should check the grounds, but the most important one is the main ground. This goes from the negative battery terminal to the body, then on to the engine block. I would pull and clean these connections, and then check the two secondary grounds that come off the intake manifold to the firewall, and the engine block to body ground. These are important because if these connections have a high resistance (IE corroded) or broken/missing, this will tax the alternator because the current will be higher going thru a smaller ground. The alternator is simple in the fact the the plug on the back is 12v+ from the ignition and then a ground, and the single red wire goes directly to the battery. The heavy wire from the battery goes to the starter, the second heavy wire is from the alternator and the lighter wire goes directly to the fuse box to power all the vehicles systems. Even if all these connectors are clean and good, a single bad ground can FUBAR the whole system and cause issues. If it turns out not to be a ground, then you do have electrical gremlins. The only way to get rid of those little bastards is luck, and allot of it, oh and allot of parts too.