Mitsubishi Montero & Montero Sport This sport utility vehicle offers more size than the other Mitsubishi SUVs, but manages to keep a sporty look and comfortable feel, unlike many larger SUVs.

Montero Suddenly Died; Now, nothing but non-accessory electronics

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  #1  
Old 11-08-2009, 08:29 PM
DCRibbens's Avatar
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Default Montero Suddenly Died; Now, nothing but non-accessory electronics

I have a '97 Montero LS with 130,000 miles on it. Two days ago, as I was driving, it suddenly and completely shut off. I coasted to the side of the road after shifting to Neutral (automatic tranny). Since then, I've not been able to get anything to work other than those things not requiring the key to be turned.

At the time of shut down, the weather was clear, I was accelerating from 50 to 60 mph, I had the stereo on fairly loudly, and was closing the somewhat slow and sticky sunroof. I also had my Ipod charging from the cigarette lighter and I had an amp running a sub (the amp has a power feed directly from the battery).

In addition, a few weeks back the positive battery clamp needed re-tightening when the starter wouldn't engage. One other oddity; once, since the total shutdown, I thought I heard the car stereo turn off after I cycled the key on and off. Otherwise, again, nothing responds to rotating the ignition key. No stereo, dash lights, clock, starter, etc...

So far I have re-checked the battery terminal clamps, replaced the battery, charged the new battery, replaced the battery terminal clamps, attempted a jump from another vehicle, visually inspected the clear topped fusible links, and checked the regular fuses.

I have never had a problem like this before on any car. My guess is that the concurrent draw, possibly coupled with a questionable battery and/or even alternator, over-amped a fuse, fusible link, relay, or even connection point and that power is, in essence, never getting sent down line from the action of turning the key. Any ideas of how to address this problem or test where the break is? Any idea of what caused the instant and complete shutdown of the engine and all electrical systems?

Thanks,
Hans Ribbens
920-559-6094
 
  #2  
Old 11-08-2009, 08:43 PM
redturboeclipse's Avatar
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when you mention non-accessory electronics-- so if you press the brake, the lights still go on? and turning on the headlights, etc

you said you checked the "regular" fuses, how bout checking ALL of them?
 
  #3  
Old 11-08-2009, 09:35 PM
DCRibbens's Avatar
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Default I'll try to clarify

Yes, the brake lights work fine and the headlights (and the dome and door beeper, etc...) Any thing that doesn't need the key to work, works.

I checked all the fuses, regular fuses being in opposition to fusible links. Some people refer to both types as fuses. I checked both, visually.

One addition; a couple of minutes ago I need to grab something from the Montero and thought I'd try again. This time, the stereo and clock lit up. After rolling the key to the off position and rotating again to the acc position, they lit up again. On the third try, however, they did not and I could not get them on again. In none of these cases did I get any response at all from rotating the key to the start position.

Does any of this suggest part of the key/ignition module? If so, why the instant and complete shutoff during driving?

Hans
 
  #4  
Old 11-08-2009, 10:05 PM
redturboeclipse's Avatar
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Yea sounds like it might be with the key/ignition module.

Wish I was a thief so I can instruct you on how to hot wire to test if car turns over like that.

It seems as though you are in the right direction.
 
  #5  
Old 11-09-2009, 12:33 PM
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Default Denoument! Melted power wire.

I'll try to get some photos as well, but, after pulling apart the key/switch/ignition/tumbler assembly (which wasn't really necessary) and testing the incoming power wire (it's the white one), I found that the wire was only delivering around 4 volts to the power distribution point of the switch assembly. When I scabbed together a power wire (with a 25 amp inline fuse) and ran directly from the battery to the output terminals of the switch assembly, everything responded well. I also ran power through the 40a fusible link that protects the ignition system and it tested OK.

At that point I visually checked the power wire backward from the ignition switch. At the second plug, about 1' from the ignition switch, the power wire had fried, melting a significant portion of itself, its portion of the plug, and extensively charring the remaining half burned connection. There was just enough left for some power to go through (thus the occasional radio/clock response) but not consistently and certainly not enough power to trip the relays for the ignition system and the starter.

I plan on cutting away the melted plug and using crimp connectors to reconnect the wires joined by that plug. In addition, I plan on fixing the dragging sunroof so that it doesn't draw so much power and rewire the aftermarket stereo so that it draws power directly from the battery instead of drawing post-ignition switch. I think I was just drawing to much power wnd probably had a plug with a connection issue. The combination overheated the wire and caused the problems.

I'll try to add some photos if I can.

Hans
 
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