Mitsubishi Montero & Montero Sport This sport utility vehicle offers more size than the other Mitsubishi SUVs, but manages to keep a sporty look and comfortable feel, unlike many larger SUVs.

Newby looking at buying.

Old Jan 30, 2021 | 08:38 AM
  #1  
Trailside's Avatar
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Default Newby looking at buying.

Thanks for the membership.
There are 2 LS Sports for sale near me. One is 2001 other is 2003. They’re in the 125,000-150,000 miles range. I’m looking for the typical newby buyer info about what to pay special attention to on these. From what I’ve read these are sturdy trucks and while It won’t be primarily used off road it will see some dirt. Thanks
 

Last edited by Trailside; Jan 30, 2021 at 04:05 PM. Reason: New info
Old Jan 31, 2021 | 06:47 PM
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My 2000 Montero sport currently has 272,000 miles on the odometer, if you can get a good deal on the truck then I would go for it. One thing that I would check are the rubber coolant hoses, with the age of these trucks it’s something to look out for, I had two coolant hoses fail on mine and it will leave you stranded, it’s not the trucks fault, all vehicles that are near 20 years old are going to have failing rubber components. Another thing is the crankshaft pulley bolt, the old design is known to break but there is a new design bolt and washer that is about $30 for both at the dealership. It has never broken on mine and I just changed it out at 270,000 miles. But other than that our ownership has been excellent with very little problems and has been a really reliable vehicle.
 
Old Jan 31, 2021 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Trailside
From what I’ve read these are sturdy trucks and while It won’t be primarily used off road it will see some dirt.
Mine was constantly used off road and I’ve never had a component failure
 
Old Feb 7, 2021 | 06:54 PM
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Default Things to expect

Use this list to intimidate the seller. Basically if you are not doing your own work, an undermaintained Montero at 120000 has no actuaal value because the needed list if services is so labor intensive. .

If you are not good at wrenching, you will be forced to be, so plan on long greasy learning sessions.

At 120000 you need to complain to seller about:

A timing belt change, cam seals and main front seal all leaking oil. Rather involved. Lots to remove, but parts are not expensive.

A good $ 1500 in labor though. 2 to 3 times the work of a timing belt on a 4 cylinder engine.

Spark plugs & wires - requires plenum removal. Very involved. Most sellers do not want to spend the money to have this done. Add 700.

Oil leaks from valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals must be addressed. There is a tendency for the left head to build up a lot of gunk, requiring cleaning out any gunk around cams and valvetrain. Involved. Do with plugs, wires and timing belt. Add 500 to whine list.

Seller probably ignored oil leaks from valve covers and should have burned up a couple of alternators by dripping oil into them. If you do not fix those leaks, you will too. Add 120 to list if there is any oil on the alternator at all.

Also be sure to whine about the ( very real) fire hazard of oil on the exhaust pipes too if any.

Front wheel bearing service. Involved. You need to learn how to preload a bearing, old car style. Ask if they werecdone every 50,000 miles like they were supposed to. If not, whine about the cost of changing them, etc. If the wheels are loose rocking At 3 and 9 oclock, and if it wanders much, you know the drill by now. Whine about each item. Add 250.

Check steering wheel play sitting still. If more than 1/2 inch, steering box is worn. It needs adjusting, most likely. But it could be 900 for a new box. Add to whine list.

All fluids likely need changed. Ask when brake and differentials fluids were last changed. You know most owners will have neglected them. Add to whine list. 200?

Insist on a cold start. If you can listen to a cold start, and if it has been sitting, loud ticking for a couple of minutes is likely to come from the lifters that have air in them. Shake head and look like death has come to town. Shake head, spit, such air thru teeth, and reluctantly try to settle for 500. Then learn the bleed procedure. Clean them when you have engine apart.

Brake service, especially greasing slides. If brakes are not high and firm, whine, buy and fix yourself. If petal is not high, something is wrong.

Full pump assembly replacement due to rusting out. Check through right rear wheel well. Unless it has been done, it is due. Drop tank, slide a new one in. Easy. Butcintimidating to seller. You know the drill. Whine. Add 500. Your cost is 130 if you do your own work.

Then the usual. Idle bypass valve cleaning, throttle body cleaning, verify egr is working, filters. Vacuum leak check, etc. All will be needed.

Good luck, and if all goes well, welcome.


 

Last edited by jburney; Feb 7, 2021 at 07:44 PM.
Old Feb 8, 2021 | 12:55 AM
  #5  
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Spoiler
 
I absolutely love this write up, now this ladies and gents, is how you get a person to sell his vehicle for next to nothing. 100% gold.
 
Old Feb 9, 2021 | 09:10 AM
  #6  
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That was brilliant and 100% accurate writeup. Keep in mind - while the symptoms described are accurate and common (in fact they are the reasons why there vehicles get sold), none of them is a death blow. The list should be used for bargening purposes and to plan your work once you get your Montero. These things can be expensive to fix if you use a dealer or outside mechanic, but they definitely can be fixed by a determined, mid level DIYer.
 
Old Feb 13, 2021 | 08:38 PM
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I bought my first one for 800 US because the tranny slammed due to an unplugged temp sensor and it wandered all over the road. The previous owner didn't load the front wheel bearings properly and the steering worm box needed to be adjusted . As I was fixing it the fuel pump failed. It needed timing belt, plugs, valve cover gaskets, a water pump, an alternator, valve seals and 2 brake calipers. Parts cost 700 US or so.
 
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