I have a 2000 Montero Sport XLS with the following behavior:

The passenger side power lock switch locks and unlocks all doors as expected. The driver side switch will only lock the doors. It will not unlock the doors. Could this be the same problem referenced in the following post:

p { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }a:link { } https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mitsubishi-montero-montero-sport-14/95-montero-power-door-locks-keep-locking-themselves-2996/

or is it more likely a switch problem and how can I determine which one it is?

Also, all of the power window switches work as expected except for the passenger side switch. The passenger side switch will only raise the passenger side window, it will not lower it. Any ideas? Another switch problem perhaps?

 

I followed your link and it seems to me to be similar. As with any electrical problem, the way to do it is to test for circuit continuity and then shorten the circuit until you find where the signal stops working as it should, and there lies your fault, usually at a loose junction or at a faulty switch. Simple things like dirty or loose contacts or fuses can also foul things up pretty good, and mask their trail by only working part of the time. Start by measuring the output of your driver's door operating switches; does each one put out the proper voltage when engaged? If so, then you can cross that off the list as the source of your problem and then move on. Get yourself an inexpensive circuit tester and then start tracing the contacts from your driver's door to each of the terminals. A pain, I know, but it's the only foolproof way of narrowing down your suspects. Eventually, you should be able to determine where your signal is getting lost.

 

I have 2001 Montero XLS. When I roll driver window dow, it almost never rolls up immediately. If I wait a minute, it will roll up an inch or so. If I wait longer, more window will roll up. If I wait several minutes, it will roll up entirely. Going through a drive through in pouring rain is a challenge.

Any thoughts as to what could be causing it?




QUOTE=mothman52;270757]I followed your link and it seems to me to be similar. As with any electrical problem, the way to do it is to test for circuit continuity and then shorten the circuit until you find where the signal stops working as it should, and there lies your fault, usually at a loose junction or at a faulty switch. Simple things like dirty or loose contacts or fuses can also foul things up pretty good, and mask their trail by only working part of the time. Start by measuring the output of your driver's door operating switches; does each one put out the proper voltage when engaged? If so, then you can cross that off the list as the source of your problem and then move on. Get yourself an inexpensive circuit tester and then start tracing the contacts from your driver's door to each of the terminals. A pain, I know, but it's the only foolproof way of narrowing down your suspects. Eventually, you should be able to determine where your signal is getting lost.[/QUOTE]

 

You could have a mechanical problem where something is sticking or you could have an electronic problem where something is getting hot and you need to wait for it to cool down a bit before it works properly. Or it could be one causing the other...

You'd probably need to pull the door panel apart and look at the mechanism.

 

Another likely culprit in this situation is worn out wires in the door jam. You can access the wires by pulling back rubber cover from them where door meets the body and see if any insulation had worn down allowing wires to ground and send wrong signals to the door locking unlocking mechanisms.