any one know how to remove front rotors, is there a screw or u just pull them off with a lot of force,
07 mitsubishi outlander SL
thx

 

remove the wheel
remove lower brake caliper pin and rotate caliper up
pull rotor towards you off the wheel studs.

 

and if it doesn't pull off, just tap it from the inside with a hammer - a rubber one if you don't want to damage it, or put a piece of wood between the hammer and rotor to protect it.

 

Wait, this is what it looks like with the lower caliper pin removed and the caliper rotated up - doesn't look like the rotor will come off this way.

Or do you mean that I can only remove the caliper bracket's lower bolt and rotate the whole bracket/caliper assembly up?

 

You need to remove both bolts from the back of the caliper bracket. Then you just take the entire caliper assembly off. Make sure you don't allow it to dangle by the brake lines - tie it to the springs to keep it out of the way.

Then, the rotor can be removed easily - may need tapping off with a hammer as mentioned previously - often it takes quite a few firm taps with a hammer.

 

woops...what ben said! :/

 

thanks for the clarification! That's what I've been planning.

Not the pads won't fall out when I remove the whole bracket/caliper assembly, right?

Also how hard are the bracket bolts to undo? Do I need power tools?

And when putting the bracket bolts back on, should I use any loctite? (planning to use blue loctite anyway, but saw some other cars actually using red)

 

The pads should come out fine. Just to go over it again, here is the process:
1. Support car on axle stands
2. Remove wheel
3. Undo the lower caliper pin, rotate caliper upwards.
4. Take pads out
5. You can take the top pin out and then remove the caliper. Give it a clean with wire brush.
6. Carefully, Suspend the caliper assembly from the springs with wire/cable tie etc. Do not pull on the brake lines.
5. Undo the 2 bolts on the back of the caliper bracket (no power tools required, If really tight, use a breaker bar. Make sure you are turning them anticlockwise - it is easy to get confused as they are on the opposite side of the hub!
6. Bang the rotor off.
7. Put new rotor on.
8. Take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir.
9. Carefully push the pistons back into the calpier using a g-clamp (I usually put the old pad loosely back in place so the g-clamp doesn't damage the piston). Keep an eye on the fluid in the reservoir - it may flood over the top! Put the lid back on the reservoir after pistons pushed back in.
10. Bolt the caliper bracket back on (I don't usually use loctite, but maybe I should - not had one fall off yet!).
11. Put new pads in. Remember to put some brake grease on the back. (you must put in new pads if changing the rotors).
12. Reassemble the caliper.
13. Put the wheel back on
14. Press the brake pedal few times. Re-check the brake fluid level.
15. Take it for a test drive.

I usually also change the brake fluid at the same time.

Hope this helps

Ben

 

Thanks, but what I am saying - I already changed the pads.

I want to change the rotors only now. So if I remove the whole bracket/caliper assembly for the rotor change, are the pads going to stay put?

P.S. OK, I now read your point to change the pads too... Makes sense. But my pads are really quite new.

 

If you just changed your pads, and want to go back in to change the rotor...I wouldn't change the pads out again.

the pads you put in have probably worn to the surface of your existing rotors...so when you put your new rotors on, the two surfaces will take some adjustment time to wear back together.

you've probably seen how the pads are held in by spring clips...so as long as you don't jostle it around too much, the pads should stay in. However, the new rotor will be thicker, so you'll have to spread the pads out some more...and watch your resivoir level or you may overflow.