2009 V6 Outlander, 73,000kms.

Recent dealer brake service with all 4 corners turned (1st time) and new pads (OEM I assume) all round.

Now I have an intermittent metal/metal noise from what I think is the left front. The noise can vary from click like a typical pad shift sound to a distinct crack like the piston sticking and letting go (similar to my old CB750). Its most noticeable at low speeds (parking manoeuvres) with light brake application and especially with any significant lock on the steering. (It sounds nuts in a quiet underground car park)

Its not rust on the rotors, as its usually after a period of time driving that it gets noisy. I've been back to the dealer who did a "brake service" and said they could see no issue.

Brake function is faultless, stopping straight and true.

 

cv .

 

I'd agree, dying CV shafts make a clicking noise, especially when turning.

 

Are CV failures a known issue with the Outie?

 

all your answers are already out there

 

CV shafts are lubricated only by a grease held in place with a rubber boot over the joint. It never gets changed out, so it is an eventual wear point on any vehicle with them. I've got 160k miles on mine and I'm willing to bet I'll have to change mine within a year or two.

 

I realize that cv joints eventually fail. However, my question was directed specifically towards the Outlander model and whether or not there has been/is a known propensity for this vehicle to have issues. 70k is a nominal mileage after all.

 

There is a technical service bulletin for the clicking noise that affects 2007 and later V6 Outlanders. TSB 08-26-002.

I tried to upload the TSB but the file attachment exceeds the limit for this site.

In summary, this is what the TSB says:


Repair kits which include new joint grease are available to correct this condition.

 

Just switched my snow(on OEM 16" rims) tires to my summers( on 17" FRD's).
Above noise is almost gone!!??
The front left rotor has a area that's not being swept by the pad despite the dealer turning.
The rotor had quite an amount of free play sitting on the studs (no locking screw or dowel noted). Is the rotor standalone or is the wheel bearing incorporated?
The cv boot was dry and undamaged.
Lug nuts torqued to spec.
Could the rotor shift despite the pressure from the lug nuts?
No free play rocking tire when off the ground.
I'm going to have to increase my meds if this carries on......

 

hub to rotor bolts.

If you buy a car newer than ~1994, its probably sh*t. So yes, 70km for things to go thud, or even fail, is expected.