so new to the form new Mitsubishi owner just bought a "cheap" 2003 Outlander and maybe regretting it already. the battery light and brake light come on and stay on the alternator seems to be working properly and was check with a multi-meter and is working properly I can disconnect the battery while car is running and it continues to run... I've cleaned all the wires and terminals that I can see I'm curious if maybe anyone has experience with this.. this is my first foreign build car I've ever owned always owned Buicks ( roadmasters).. Also today for the first time had an issue starting it after it was warm it felt like the fuel pump was going in it but it seems to run fine once I got it going it would start and stall about 4 times before I was able to keep it going..? Help!! I'm assuming it must be electrical but looking for some advice on how to troubleshoot it down

 

compression test.
new spark plugs.

 

It would be nice to do something simple like that. Do you think this could also be causing the issues with the battery light and brake light though?

 

I don't have an ECU pinout diagram for that car, so I can't help you. It's not getting a voltage signal from the alternator.

 

measure voltage accross battery with out engine running-dhoujld have atleast 12 V

check again with engine running -should be at least 13.5V.

have bttery la-tested and altrernatr tested if te readings are off.

 

Both battery and alternator read fine. I'm going to work on it some more Wednesday night in the paint shop right now getting the rust fixed on it.. I'm a jet engine mechanic by trade so working on combustion engines is a little bit different lol. mechanically speaking I'm going alright mechanic but when it comes to electric I'm iffy at best. so any hints and tips are greatly appreciated. I got a compression test kit so I will be trying that on Wednesday night along with checking the plugs you have a recommendation for the new ones?

 

My 2 cents, this look like a ground problem...in the engine compartement.

Add a parallel groung wire from the engine to the battery negative post and see if it help.

The brake light could be the parking brake sensor again a ground problem.

Keeping the engine running after start is difficult if the engine ground in not good as ignition will fail and fuel injection being electrical need ground.

Remember this is a 2003 (10 years old).

 

A bad ground was my first thought I was just curious as to if you had any good positions of which to run the wires I was planning on one from the block to the battery one from the block to the body and one from the block to the frame. or should all three be run from the negative side of the battery? Thanks for everyones advice so far.

 

They should be tied into the negative terminal. Generally you have a main engine ground that sits somewhere close to the firewall, then a ground to the body which is usually the smaller gauge wire off the negative, then you have an ECU ground to body.

 

So I didn't get the compression kit to test the cylinders last night. But I replaced all of the spark plugs unfortunately the spark plugs that were in there appeared to be fairly new. The number one cylinder spark plug threads are also wet with oil.... so I'm thinking the piston ring may not be actuating properly? also as far as grounds go inspected every one of the grounds disconnected and reconnected its not a ground like I was hoping at least not one that's gone bad. I pulled inspected damn near every fuse not only were they all still good but none of them seem to make any difference as far as turning off the battery and brake light. once he gets out of the shop to bring it to a local car parts for the help of the codes for free. your thoughts?