I have 2004 Outlander Sport. 160k miles. Automatic transmission. It has two separate clunking sound that I am trying to figure out:

1) Clunking noise in the rear when I shift from Park to Drive, and sometimes when I accelerate from stop to road speed. Could it be a loose rear differential mount?

2) When I drive over bumps e.g. speed bumps (slow or fast speed), I hear clunking noise in the front. Could the front struts need to be replaced? How do you check for bad struts?

Thanks in advance!

 

Most likely you need to do the rear differential front bushings. I fixed mine with windshield urethane and added an exhaust hanger donut to each side to make it a bit more rigid. Check driveline ujoints by grabbing and twisting driveline back and forth if you feel a little play they need to be replaced.You can check struts pushing down several times, like get the car bouncing and after you let off it doesn't stop immediately then struts are weak and need replaced. Get the front tires off the ground and start checking for play could be tie rod ends, ball joints,control arm bushings or sway bar end links.

 

Thanks Lobuc. When the heat wave in the CA cools down a bit, I am going to check out the rear diff and front suspension area for play/loose connections. Thanks again. I will post my findings when I get the chance.

 

I got the front up on jack stands, and removed the front tires; found the outer tie rod bushings and rubber seals are worn out on both sides. I think this is the cause of the clunking sound. When I hit a bump or pot hole, I hear metal hitting metal in the front.

For the rear, I reversed the car on a set of Rhino floor ramps and got the rear up 12" from the ground. There a slight play when I wigged the drive shaft. So it could be the u-joints but there are several u-joints along the long drive shaft and will have to isolate.

It has 160k miles and suspect the u-joints are original parts. I can take the entire drive shaft to a truck/drive line shop and get the whole things rebuilt.

Also when I push up on the rear diff carrier, it moves up and down. I looked at both sides of the diff mount brackets and see about 1" space between the upper and lower stopper. Is this normal? Thanks!

 

You really have to look carefully at each ujoint as you twist it back and forth any play at all means that ujoint needs replaced. A little play in the differentials is ok though that's why you need to look very closely. Ujoints are not hard to replace and free rental tools at the parts stores make it pretty easy. There is a little space above and below the rear bushings that's why I used the exhaust hanging rubber donut on the lower side as well as urethaned the bushing back together, just seemed to me like it would support it better.

 

Thanks Luboc! Have a great 4th of July weekend!

 

I had to replace the bushings at about 110 K because, I theorize, I have used the Shift feature almost exclusively, and in a way the car wasn't really built for that use. It only cost about 400$ so it was well worth it to drive it like a stick.

Its pretty likely your problem, the clunk was pretty bad, and got worse fast so you might want to do more than just shim them so you don't do more damage.

 

Thanks for chiming in Ootlander06!

On the front, I replaced both tie-rods. Major improvements on the front. No more metal clinking sound when I hit a bump on the road.

And the rear, I replaced the driver's side differential mount and the clunking sound went away when I shift from park to drive, and taking off from a stop. Nice!

The passenger rear side differential mount is harder to access. I have to drop the exhaust, ran out of day light and will get to it this weekend!

So far I am happy with the results. Cost + elbow grease. $36 for a pair of new tie-rods w/tax and free shipping . And the pair of rear diff mounts $95 w/tax and free shipping.

 

Well done, rbostonca, I hear that click in the front, too, now... have for a while...was the tie-rod job that easy? I am trying to figure if its my original CV joints. But if its that easy, Ill just do them to eliminate that before ordering a CV. Thanks for your post.

 

Thanks Ootlander06. It was relatively easy. Thanks to Luboc for the tips, and Youtube for the refresher on how to remove and install new tie-rods.

BTW, I bought the replacement pair on eBay (Brand: AM Autoparts Part Number: AM-3897298725 for $35/pair). It's the direct replacement placement to 2003-2006 Lancer Evolution/Outlander Mitsubishi part# 101-7295, 4422A002, ES800874 or MR548285 Tie Rod Tie Rod Kit Set Pair (Front Left Driver and Right Passenger Side). You can search Ebay for example "Tie Rods MR548285".

Both the old tie-rods were shot, and needed to be replaced. After replacing the tie-rods, some of the noise went away, but not completely. Lobuc suggested to take a look at the control arms bushings, sway bar end links and ball joints. I will check for play this weekend. I already check the struts and seems fine! Good luck on your repair!