30k service recommendations?
#11
01-17-2011, 09:06 AM
Here is what 30k Regular Maintenance recommends:
- Check fuel hoses condition (recommended, but not required)
- Replace air cleaner filter (can do myself)
- Replace spark plugs (can do myself)
- Inspect and adjust intake and exhaust valve clearance (not "scheduled" service)
- Check drive belts condition (for the generator, water pump, power steering pump)
- Change engine oil
- Replace engine oil filter
- Check manual transaxle/transmission oil level and condition
- Check transfer oil level and condition (what's that?)
- Inspect coolant hoses condition. (radiator hose, heater hose) - done with service
- Inspect disk brake pads and rotors for wear
- Inspect rear drum brake linings and rear wheel cylinders for war and leaks of all wheels
- Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks
- Inspect ball joint and steering linkage seals for grease leaks and damage
- Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage
- Inspect suspension system for looseness and damage (????)
- Check rear axle oil level (necessary?)
Quite a long list of things and I know some I can do myself, but what about others. Are they really worth being inspected?
- Check fuel hoses condition (recommended, but not required)
- Replace air cleaner filter (can do myself)
- Replace spark plugs (can do myself)
- Inspect and adjust intake and exhaust valve clearance (not "scheduled" service)
- Check drive belts condition (for the generator, water pump, power steering pump)
- Change engine oil
- Replace engine oil filter
- Check manual transaxle/transmission oil level and condition
- Check transfer oil level and condition (what's that?)
- Inspect coolant hoses condition. (radiator hose, heater hose) - done with service
- Inspect disk brake pads and rotors for wear
- Inspect rear drum brake linings and rear wheel cylinders for war and leaks of all wheels
- Check brake hoses for deterioration or leaks
- Inspect ball joint and steering linkage seals for grease leaks and damage
- Inspect drive shaft boots for grease leaks and damage
- Inspect suspension system for looseness and damage (????)
- Check rear axle oil level (necessary?)
Quite a long list of things and I know some I can do myself, but what about others. Are they really worth being inspected?
#12
01-17-2011, 04:44 PM
Well, for one thing, I do know that 2007-UP Outlanders come with Platinum tipped spark plugs good to go for about 100,000 miles. Timing belt in 2007-UP Outlanders with V6 engine are good to go for about 105,000 miles. And I believe that transfer oil applies to 4WD Outlanders only.
#14
01-18-2011, 04:56 PM
BTW, did you service yours at a dealership, or at a licensed mechanic?
TIA.
#15
01-18-2011, 05:25 PM
Got quote from one of the Mitsubishi service $45 for transfer case oil change, $99 for transmission and $70 for coolant. Another Mitsubishi/Ford dealer wanted $75 for transfer case, $195 for transmission and $125 for coolant.
#16
01-18-2011, 08:46 PM
I did them myself. Just buy the fluid and keep the receipts if you are in the US. If you can change oil and you have a hand oil pump gun...you can do the transfercase and diff.
#17
01-19-2011, 11:16 AM
Diff oil change is usually easier than engine oil change.
Just get the right diff oil. And you probably need to get the correct friction modifier to be mixed with diff oil, and the correct amount of it. Some diff oils (like certain Royal Purple grades) already come with friction modifier mixed in.
Normally you don't even need a hand pump. Most diff oil bottles have a spout (or you can easily buy an add-on spout at an auto parts store).
And you also need the correct size wrench sockets for the drain bolt and the fill bolt.
DO NOT open the drain hole until you are SURE that you have the right socket size for the fill bolt.
Here is me changing my goat's rear diff oil the other day (I try to do it every 15K miles)
The hole you see opened is the fill hole. In this picture I already closed the drain hole (the bottom bolt)
Just get the right diff oil. And you probably need to get the correct friction modifier to be mixed with diff oil, and the correct amount of it. Some diff oils (like certain Royal Purple grades) already come with friction modifier mixed in.
Normally you don't even need a hand pump. Most diff oil bottles have a spout (or you can easily buy an add-on spout at an auto parts store).
And you also need the correct size wrench sockets for the drain bolt and the fill bolt.
DO NOT open the drain hole until you are SURE that you have the right socket size for the fill bolt.
Here is me changing my goat's rear diff oil the other day (I try to do it every 15K miles)
The hole you see opened is the fill hole. In this picture I already closed the drain hole (the bottom bolt)
#18
01-19-2011, 01:29 PM
Unfortunately, the tcase and diff are tucked up into the vehicle just a bit, so using the "spout" on the gear oil bottle isn't going to work...just not enough room. Worked great on my Ranger where everything is easy to get to...not on the Outlanders.
Also, the outlander does not require any friction modifiers, however synthetic fluids pretty much all have the modifiers in there for limited-slip applications. Our application does not require it, but it also will not hurt our equipment either. Tcase specs a straight 80 weight and the rear diff specs a straight 90 (or vice-versa)...None of my local parts stores carry such fluid. I asked around and everyone said that a synthetic 75w90 with the additives will do just fine.
Also, the outlander does not require any friction modifiers, however synthetic fluids pretty much all have the modifiers in there for limited-slip applications. Our application does not require it, but it also will not hurt our equipment either. Tcase specs a straight 80 weight and the rear diff specs a straight 90 (or vice-versa)...None of my local parts stores carry such fluid. I asked around and everyone said that a synthetic 75w90 with the additives will do just fine.
#19
05-19-2011, 11:07 AM
Diff oil change is usually easier than engine oil change.
Just get the right diff oil. And you probably need to get the correct friction modifier to be mixed with diff oil, and the correct amount of it. Some diff oils (like certain Royal Purple grades) already come with friction modifier mixed in.
Normally you don't even need a hand pump. Most diff oil bottles have a spout (or you can easily buy an add-on spout at an auto parts store).
And you also need the correct size wrench sockets for the drain bolt and the fill bolt.
DO NOT open the drain hole until you are SURE that you have the right socket size for the fill bolt.
Here is me changing my goat's rear diff oil the other day (I try to do it every 15K miles)
The hole you see opened is the fill hole. In this picture I already closed the drain hole (the bottom bolt)
Just get the right diff oil. And you probably need to get the correct friction modifier to be mixed with diff oil, and the correct amount of it. Some diff oils (like certain Royal Purple grades) already come with friction modifier mixed in.
Normally you don't even need a hand pump. Most diff oil bottles have a spout (or you can easily buy an add-on spout at an auto parts store).
And you also need the correct size wrench sockets for the drain bolt and the fill bolt.
DO NOT open the drain hole until you are SURE that you have the right socket size for the fill bolt.
Here is me changing my goat's rear diff oil the other day (I try to do it every 15K miles)
The hole you see opened is the fill hole. In this picture I already closed the drain hole (the bottom bolt)
#20
05-20-2011, 08:44 AM
I went to a local dealer in Anaheim, California for a transmission flush special they were running and when the tech got it up on the rack he determined that I had a CVT transmission on my '07 XLS and all that it needed was a fluid change. You'd think the service writer's computer would have told them this???
A side note on the service was that the flush was going to cost $139.95 and when they determined that the flush was not performed on the CVT they wanted to charge me $169.95. Long story short, I ended up getting it for $99.95 all inclusive, but won't be going back!
A side note on the service was that the flush was going to cost $139.95 and when they determined that the flush was not performed on the CVT they wanted to charge me $169.95. Long story short, I ended up getting it for $99.95 all inclusive, but won't be going back!