Mitsubishi Outlander The new crossover from Mitsubishi, mixing the usefulness of an SUV with the size and convenience of a sport wagon.

air filter change on V6

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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 03:31 PM
  #1  
OutlanderGT's Avatar
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Default air filter change on V6

Hi.. I am reading my manual and it actually tells you how to change the air filter.
If I am reading it correctly, it says just undo the clasps / clamps and just pull it enough and slip the air filter in there. Can anyone confirm this and no tools needed?


I have no tools right now , but I do have a small mirror and will look to see the hinges and clasps are properly done.
 
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 04:30 PM
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if you do it *just* right...no tools needed. If not done right, you can still do it without tools if you have 10 minutes of cursing Mitsubishi engineers. The bottom tabs are insanely irritating to get installed correctly. A phillips screwdriver to free up the air duct to the front grill might make it easier.
 
Old Jan 16, 2015 | 08:15 AM
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I just finished, of course the bottom "hinge" became undone as I tried to un-lodge the filter because it was slightly stuck. As soon as the filter came undone, the tension on the intake duct just lifts up and separates completely.



Can you please confirm something, this hinge is really just the rectangle on the top sticking out, and it sits into the rectangular recess on the bottom of the other half, there is no pin or pivot right? Therefore Mitsu warns you to carefully check it, as it comes off.


I took off the 2 plastic screws and the air duct off. There was no need to take the duct off, I thought they came apart more or needed... then I had to insert it back towards the radiator area, without the 2 plastic screws holding it only then I was able to get the bottom to sit together without tension.

After putting everything back I wiggled the air filter and box and doesn't seem the bottom could be separated. I hope I done it correctly. ???

Why couldn't Mitsu give us another 2 metal clamps like other cars!?!?





Mitsu recommend changing 30k or 15k if severe condition. Mine is at 22.5k, it was not too bad.. just dark but didn't have caked on dust. Now that I know how to do this, I would change it every 15k, I set the maintenance record in the MMCS. filter was $15 from a discounted dealer, I see no need to use aftermarket filters.


Interesting the one from the factory is Denso and the one I bought from dealer is MANN.
 

Last edited by OutlanderGT; Jan 16, 2015 at 08:22 AM.
Old Jan 16, 2015 | 08:47 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by OutlanderGT
I just finished, of course the bottom "hinge" became undone as I tried to un-lodge the filter because it was slightly stuck. As soon as the filter came undone, the tension on the intake duct just lifts up and separates completely.



Can you please confirm something, this hinge is really just the rectangle on the top sticking out, and it sits into the rectangular recess on the bottom of the other half, there is no pin or pivot right? Therefore Mitsu warns you to carefully check it, as it comes off.


I took off the 2 plastic screws and the air duct off. There was no need to take the duct off, I thought they came apart more or needed... then I had to insert it back towards the radiator area, without the 2 plastic screws holding it only then I was able to get the bottom to sit together without tension.

After putting everything back I wiggled the air filter and box and doesn't seem the bottom could be separated. I hope I done it correctly. ???

Why couldn't Mitsu give us another 2 metal clamps like other cars!?!?





Mitsu recommend changing 30k or 15k if severe condition. Mine is at 22.5k, it was not too bad.. just dark but didn't have caked on dust. Now that I know how to do this, I would change it every 15k, I set the maintenance record in the MMCS. filter was $15 from a discounted dealer, I see no need to use aftermarket filters.


Interesting the one from the factory is Denso and the one I bought from dealer is MANN.
Sounds like you got it back on right. You are correct, you don't need to remove the duct from the front grill area...but it did help me the first few times to have more room to maneuver the airbox piece around. A few more clamps would be best, but if you can mold something into the airbox that "works just as good" as clamps...I can see why they did it. Doesn't surprise me that the filters are different...lowest bidder.

I've been meaning to devise a lock on the airbox. Any time I take it in to get serviced, they check the air filter and can't get the box back together. I'm tired of having to fix it behind them every time. Now that I think of it, might be able to drill two small holes in the lip of the clam shells that go around the filter, zip tie them together that also has a small tag that says do not check. Think I'll do that.
 
Old Jan 17, 2015 | 08:22 AM
  #5  
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It's a no-brainer....K&N filter.
 
Old Jan 24, 2015 | 12:50 PM
  #6  
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I also use K&N filter, It lasts forever and no more buying air filters for the Montero or the motorcycle. Awesome.
 
Old Jan 27, 2015 | 02:35 AM
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I personally do not use k&n just don't like the oiled system.. unless it is project car that uses a cone filter and needs to go fast
prefer dry filters and replace regularly for the commuters
 
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