★ Best LED Floor Lighting Method
#11
08-29-2011, 10:55 AM
The best way to light your floors in an Outlander, is by converting your dome lights to LED's, and powering your floor LED strips via the driver side dome light circuit.
The driver side dome light is an 8A rated bulb, therefore power is more than adequate to run the LED dome, four 12" 5050 floor light strips and an LED controller. This method with the dome light, an RGB remote controller and four 12" strips draws under 7A. Make sure you have converted the driver side dome bulbs to LED's, otherwise you will draw too much current.
It is mandatory that you change the driver side dome light to an LED if you want to use my method. Obviously if want your lighting to be uniform in color temperature, you should change all the other dome lights as well to the same color temperature LED.
Using this method will operate all the floor lights and driver side dome (which operates under all five doors position conditions) in tandem. The bonuses to using this wiring method are, that your floor LED's power will be supplied via the ETACS ECU, where the light dimming feature is controlled from, therefore your floor lights will follow the same dimming function as the dome. In addition floor lights can be turned on and off, manually or automatically via the doors or the switch.
Run your power supply wiring from your LED controller (can be mounted in the fuse box compartment with Velcro) up the A pillar, then via the front of the headliner, to the dome light assembly. Then connect your + - to the bulb socket.
The driver side dome light is an 8A rated bulb, therefore power is more than adequate to run the LED dome, four 12" 5050 floor light strips and an LED controller. This method with the dome light, an RGB remote controller and four 12" strips draws under 7A. Make sure you have converted the driver side dome bulbs to LED's, otherwise you will draw too much current.
It is mandatory that you change the driver side dome light to an LED if you want to use my method. Obviously if want your lighting to be uniform in color temperature, you should change all the other dome lights as well to the same color temperature LED.
Using this method will operate all the floor lights and driver side dome (which operates under all five doors position conditions) in tandem. The bonuses to using this wiring method are, that your floor LED's power will be supplied via the ETACS ECU, where the light dimming feature is controlled from, therefore your floor lights will follow the same dimming function as the dome. In addition floor lights can be turned on and off, manually or automatically via the doors or the switch.
Run your power supply wiring from your LED controller (can be mounted in the fuse box compartment with Velcro) up the A pillar, then via the front of the headliner, to the dome light assembly. Then connect your + - to the bulb socket.
This is an interesting method... If I understand what you are doing correctly, shouldn't all of the LED floor lights switch on when you manually turn on the dome light? This entire circuit is negatively switched. Within the Actual dome light housing circuit, there are two grounds, one constant and one controlled via the ECU. If you attach your LED controller (which is only necessary if you have multicolored LEDs. I would use a Junction box from Oznium unless you want remote controlled functionality) in this manner it will function exactly like the dome light. Also, you have exposed wires wrapped or soldered within the dome light housing on a 15 amp fuse. Depending on the gauge wire of the controller this may allow to much current. I am also a little confused as to why you would wire the LED strips in Series? All of the strips I have come across are designed to be wired in Parallel. If you use speaker wire it is just as easy to wire it in this manner and allows you to isolate each strip for maintenance without impacting the functionality of the others.
In my personal opinion it is much safer to use an Add-a-Circuit to obtain your +12v, fusing for the gauge wire you will be using. How you obtain the switched ground connection is up to personal preference, but soldering/wrapping exposed wires to the terminals in the dome light housing just doesn't seem any less invasive than tapping the ground wire at the ECU. If you have to you can just remove the tap and tape up the wire if you ever need to remove the LED setup.
In reference to your comment about Relays, that is only necessary if you want to have an external switch to control the LED strips. I did not cover this in my tutorial, but if any are interested I can explain how that would work.
#12
08-29-2011, 10:59 AM
This method requires more work, parts, and requires modifications to the factory wiring, and will not function like a factory option.
My method is much easier, and will function like a factory option without having to add any relays, switches, fuses, or splice into any factory wiring.
My method is much easier, and will function like a factory option without having to add any relays, switches, fuses, or splice into any factory wiring.
I beg to differ. The method I proposed functions exactly as a factory option.
#13
08-30-2011, 09:17 AM
I really like the floor idea...next on my list.
I used 2x30cm LED strips for the trunk. I placed them under the retractable cargo cover bar. Drilled a tiny hole (where the cargo bar rests in) and ran the wires behind the carpets up to the rear dome light. The LED strips will come on when you open the trunk.
Now I can finally see my trunk in the dark!
I used 2x30cm LED strips for the trunk. I placed them under the retractable cargo cover bar. Drilled a tiny hole (where the cargo bar rests in) and ran the wires behind the carpets up to the rear dome light. The LED strips will come on when you open the trunk.
Now I can finally see my trunk in the dark!
The best way to light your floors in an Outlander, is by converting your dome lights to LED's, and powering your floor LED strips via the driver side dome light circuit.
The driver side dome light is an 8A rated bulb, therefore power is more than adequate to run the LED dome, four 12" 5050 floor light strips and an LED controller. This method with the dome light, an RGB remote controller and four 12" strips draws under 7A. Make sure you have converted the driver side dome bulbs to LED's, otherwise you will draw too much current.
It is mandatory that you change the driver side dome light to an LED if you want to use my method. Obviously if want your lighting to be uniform in color temperature, you should change all the other dome lights as well to the same color temperature LED.
Using this method will operate all the floor lights and driver side dome (which operates under all five doors position conditions) in tandem. The bonuses to using this wiring method are, that your floor LED's power will be supplied via the ETACS ECU, where the light dimming feature is controlled from, therefore your floor lights will follow the same dimming function as the dome. In addition floor lights can be turned on and off, manually or automatically via the doors or the switch.
Run your power supply wiring from your LED controller (can be mounted in the fuse box compartment with Velcro) up the A pillar, then via the front of the headliner, to the dome light assembly. Then connect your + - to the bulb socket.
The driver side dome light is an 8A rated bulb, therefore power is more than adequate to run the LED dome, four 12" 5050 floor light strips and an LED controller. This method with the dome light, an RGB remote controller and four 12" strips draws under 7A. Make sure you have converted the driver side dome bulbs to LED's, otherwise you will draw too much current.
It is mandatory that you change the driver side dome light to an LED if you want to use my method. Obviously if want your lighting to be uniform in color temperature, you should change all the other dome lights as well to the same color temperature LED.
Using this method will operate all the floor lights and driver side dome (which operates under all five doors position conditions) in tandem. The bonuses to using this wiring method are, that your floor LED's power will be supplied via the ETACS ECU, where the light dimming feature is controlled from, therefore your floor lights will follow the same dimming function as the dome. In addition floor lights can be turned on and off, manually or automatically via the doors or the switch.
Run your power supply wiring from your LED controller (can be mounted in the fuse box compartment with Velcro) up the A pillar, then via the front of the headliner, to the dome light assembly. Then connect your + - to the bulb socket.
#14
08-30-2011, 12:42 PM
I really like the floor idea...next on my list.
I used 2x30cm LED strips for the trunk. I placed them under the retractable cargo cover bar. Drilled a tiny hole (where the cargo bar rests in) and ran the wires behind the carpets up to the rear dome light. The LED strips will come on when you open the trunk.
Now I can finally see my trunk in the dark!
I used 2x30cm LED strips for the trunk. I placed them under the retractable cargo cover bar. Drilled a tiny hole (where the cargo bar rests in) and ran the wires behind the carpets up to the rear dome light. The LED strips will come on when you open the trunk.
Now I can finally see my trunk in the dark!
#15
08-31-2011, 12:38 AM
This is an interesting method... If I understand what you are doing correctly, shouldn't all of the LED floor lights switch on when you manually turn on the dome light? This entire circuit is negatively switched. Within the Actual dome light housing circuit, there are two grounds, one constant and one controlled via the ECU. If you attach your LED controller (which is only necessary if you have multicolored LEDs. I would use a Junction box from Oznium unless you want remote controlled functionality) in this manner it will function exactly like the dome light. Also, you have exposed wires wrapped or soldered within the dome light housing on a 15 amp fuse. Depending on the gauge wire of the controller this may allow to much current. I am also a little confused as to why you would wire the LED strips in Series? All of the strips I have come across are designed to be wired in Parallel. If you use speaker wire it is just as easy to wire it in this manner and allows you to isolate each strip for maintenance without impacting the functionality of the others.
In my personal opinion it is much safer to use an Add-a-Circuit to obtain your +12v, fusing for the gauge wire you will be using. How you obtain the switched ground connection is up to personal preference, but soldering/wrapping exposed wires to the terminals in the dome light housing just doesn't seem any less invasive than tapping the ground wire at the ECU. If you have to you can just remove the tap and tape up the wire if you ever need to remove the LED setup.
In reference to your comment about Relays, that is only necessary if you want to have an external switch to control the LED strips. I did not cover this in my tutorial, but if any are interested I can explain how that would work.
In my personal opinion it is much safer to use an Add-a-Circuit to obtain your +12v, fusing for the gauge wire you will be using. How you obtain the switched ground connection is up to personal preference, but soldering/wrapping exposed wires to the terminals in the dome light housing just doesn't seem any less invasive than tapping the ground wire at the ECU. If you have to you can just remove the tap and tape up the wire if you ever need to remove the LED setup.
In reference to your comment about Relays, that is only necessary if you want to have an external switch to control the LED strips. I did not cover this in my tutorial, but if any are interested I can explain how that would work.
With all respect... the intent of my post was not to, compete or debate the validity of my method, nor to seek any advice regarding it, considering I have not asked for any. I have explained the process in great detail, and at this point, if you are questioning the validity, or that it does not make sense, and is not useful for you... then change the channel.
"Also, you have exposed wires wrapped or soldered within the dome light housing on a 15 amp fuse."
What "exposed wires"? What has the 15A fuse have to do with what you are saying? If everything is properly and neatly installed, there is no problem. However, if you wrap your wires for connections, do not use shrink tubing, have poor soldering skills, or lack common sense, than you should not be attempting any of this type of work. I am assuming that anyone who wants to do this, will take the appropriate action to make it happen properly.
Obviously this install will require some basic electronics and some experience, considering it will require proper soldering abilities, to make, or have made, the several custom cables for all the wiring. In addition I never implied that this post was for beginners, nor was it intended to be used as some tutorial... it's up to the individual to implement the method professionally... not in the messed up ways that you are trying to make it sound like.
"Depending on the gauge wire of the controller this may allow to much current."
Do not understand what you trying to say here either.
As long as the total current draw of ALL components connected to the DRIVER side dome light does not exceed 8W @ 12.5 VDC, there is no excessive current draw... it's really very basic. However, if turning the vehicle into a disco light machine, by adding so many lights that the current draw would exceed 8W, would obviously be a problem.
"I am also a little confused as to why you would wire the LED strips in Series?"
The context that I refer to "Series" is not electrically, rather for layout, in that the strips are connected one after another, in the order basis that I mentioned, to keep the wiring in the vehicle to minimum. Did not think I had to mention this on a "electrical" level, considering that the wiring can only be connected in parallel "electrically", whether they are LED strips or single LED's, and are common anode or cathode, or any other electrical device for that matter.
"In my personal opinion it is much safer to use an Add-a-Circuit to obtain your +12v, fusing for the gauge wire you will be using. How you obtain the switched ground connection is up to personal preference, but soldering/wrapping exposed wires to the terminals in the dome light housing just doesn't seem any less invasive than tapping the ground wire at the ECU."
A fuse rating is not determined by "gauge wire you will be using", it's based on the connected circuit's maximum current draw, and obviously, any wiring would have to be able to handle what ever current level that it's carrying.
To have the ability to use the driver side dome light switch to operate the added LED's in conjunction with the dome lights, you HAVE to connect to the dome light switch. In addition, if your vehicle has the auto dimming interior lights feature, it will provide the same function to the connected LED's. Typically this is how a factory type option would be implemented.
I suggest you reread my post, regarding the connection to the dome socket. I provided two examples (NON INVASIVE alligator clips which will never fall off unless they are poor quality, or, permanent "INVASIVE" solder)... nothing about "wrapped" wires. Anyone that even considers simply wrapping electrical wires in ANY type of electronics work, is a "HACK".
Take a look at the factory installed and exposed light socket terminals and light bulbs in your dome light assemblies, according to you, this would pose a problem as well, considering that the bulb, and the socket terminals are both exposed. Connecting to these two terminals with a power supply cable with secure alligator clip connectors would not be problem if it's executed correctly. There is absolutely nothing invasive about it, considering these are the only two connections that are made to the entire vehicle with ALLIGATOR CLIPS.
"In reference to your comment about Relays, that is only necessary if you want to have an external switch to control the LED strips. I did not cover this in my tutorial, but if any are interested I can explain how that would work."
Your point is...? That I should add a relay and switch to have on-off capability, instead of the factory switch that's already on the dome light, as I have mentioned?
Obviously if independent control of the floor lights from the dome light switch is wanted, than it would require a relay and switch to do so. However most people don't drive around with floor lights on, or use them by themselves, unless perhaps your displaying the vehicle at car shows. Typical courtesy lights offered by manufacturers operate in tandem with the dome lights.
Pretty good explanation on how you accomplished this. Here is a good tutorial on how installing the inside illumination with good pix. A little more detailed.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...r-sport-40073/
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...r-sport-40073/
This method requires more work, parts, and requires modifications to the factory wiring, and will not function like a factory option.
My method is much easier, and will function like a factory option without having to add any relays, switches, fuses, or splice into any factory wiring.
My method is much easier, and will function like a factory option without having to add any relays, switches, fuses, or splice into any factory wiring.
This method requires more work, parts, and requires modifications to the factory wiring, and will not function like a factory option.
My method is much easier, and will function like a factory option without having to add any relays, switches, fuses, or splice into any factory wiring.
My method is much easier, and will function like a factory option without having to add any relays, switches, fuses, or splice into any factory wiring.
Your responses to my posts come across like it is some kind of competition, considering you are trying to "so called" educate me with psychobabble, while coming across like you seem to have been offended because I stated the facts. Otherwise, you simply would have not made any comments. I only provided a "factual" opinion to a member that referred your thread to me, within THIS thread. Had I not been referred to your thread, I would have had absolutely no comment regarding your application.
Last edited by SLX; 08-31-2011 at 10:48 AM.
#16
08-31-2011, 08:24 AM
I apologize if I came off as defensive. I only attempted to comment on components of your tutorial that may pose an issue or worse a fire hazard when others attempt it.
The reason I commented about the fuse rating of the dome light circuit is not based on the total current draw of the LEDs which should not be a problem. What happens in the event there is a short in the LED circuit? Depending on the gauge of the wires(typically 20 or higher) used, the insulation on the wires will melt long before a 15 amp fuse will blow and if the wire in question is near something flammable, you will have a car fire on your hands. For those reading this thread that are interested, please refer to the following chart in order to determine the proper fuse rating for a number of typical gauges: Wire/Fuse Guide - SMD Forum
You may be willing to take additional risks when setting up your circuit, but before posting a tutorial it may behoove you to understand a little bit about the psychobabble I speak of or take your own advice:
"A "novice" should not be attempting installs like this without having some basic electronics knowledge and experience."
The reason I commented about the fuse rating of the dome light circuit is not based on the total current draw of the LEDs which should not be a problem. What happens in the event there is a short in the LED circuit? Depending on the gauge of the wires(typically 20 or higher) used, the insulation on the wires will melt long before a 15 amp fuse will blow and if the wire in question is near something flammable, you will have a car fire on your hands. For those reading this thread that are interested, please refer to the following chart in order to determine the proper fuse rating for a number of typical gauges: Wire/Fuse Guide - SMD Forum
You may be willing to take additional risks when setting up your circuit, but before posting a tutorial it may behoove you to understand a little bit about the psychobabble I speak of or take your own advice:
"A "novice" should not be attempting installs like this without having some basic electronics knowledge and experience."
#17
08-31-2011, 11:07 AM
I apologize if I came off as defensive. I only attempted to comment on components of your tutorial that may pose an issue or worse a fire hazard when others attempt it.
The reason I commented about the fuse rating of the dome light circuit is not based on the total current draw of the LEDs which should not be a problem. What happens in the event there is a short in the LED circuit? Depending on the gauge of the wires(typically 20 or higher) used, the insulation on the wires will melt long before a 15 amp fuse will blow and if the wire in question is near something flammable, you will have a car fire on your hands. For those reading this thread that are interested, please refer to the following chart in order to determine the proper fuse rating for a number of typical gauges: Wire/Fuse Guide - SMD Forum
You may be willing to take additional risks when setting up your circuit, but before posting a tutorial it may behoove you to understand a little bit about the psychobabble I speak of or take your own advice:
"A "novice" should not be attempting installs like this without having some basic electronics knowledge and experience."
The reason I commented about the fuse rating of the dome light circuit is not based on the total current draw of the LEDs which should not be a problem. What happens in the event there is a short in the LED circuit? Depending on the gauge of the wires(typically 20 or higher) used, the insulation on the wires will melt long before a 15 amp fuse will blow and if the wire in question is near something flammable, you will have a car fire on your hands. For those reading this thread that are interested, please refer to the following chart in order to determine the proper fuse rating for a number of typical gauges: Wire/Fuse Guide - SMD Forum
You may be willing to take additional risks when setting up your circuit, but before posting a tutorial it may behoove you to understand a little bit about the psychobabble I speak of or take your own advice:
"A "novice" should not be attempting installs like this without having some basic electronics knowledge and experience."
That was the point I was trying to bring up and posted your install method to this thread.
Jmant83 in my opinion your method is a safer option. It might be up setting to SLX, but taking a chance and burning up a Outlander isn't an option. Even the most experienced professional installer can make a simple mistake. XLS doesn't like constructive criticism. Sorry but I could not be quiet as you wish me to be on your post XLS. No competition between your install and Jmant83. Just shedding some light on a possible safety issue. And if you dont like this, its a shame. SLX you seam to think this is a verbal attack on you and it isn't get over it. Enough of my psychobabble.
#18
08-31-2011, 12:07 PM
I always had additional LED lighting in all my cars, maybe thats why I thought the Outlanders trunk was too dark without!! 
Or maybe I just wanted to play with some LEDs!!! haha
Or maybe I just wanted to play with some LEDs!!! haha
#19
08-31-2011, 11:10 PM
I apologize if I came off as defensive. I only attempted to comment on components of your tutorial that may pose an issue or worse a fire hazard when others attempt it.
The reason I commented about the fuse rating of the dome light circuit is not based on the total current draw of the LEDs which should not be a problem. What happens in the event there is a short in the LED circuit? Depending on the gauge of the wires(typically 20 or higher) used, the insulation on the wires will melt long before a 15 amp fuse will blow and if the wire in question is near something flammable, you will have a car fire on your hands. For those reading this thread that are interested, please refer to the following chart in order to determine the proper fuse rating for a number of typical gauges: Wire/Fuse Guide - SMD Forum
You may be willing to take additional risks when setting up your circuit, but before posting a tutorial it may behoove you to understand a little bit about the psychobabble I speak of or take your own advice:
"A "novice" should not be attempting installs like this without having some basic electronics knowledge and experience."
The reason I commented about the fuse rating of the dome light circuit is not based on the total current draw of the LEDs which should not be a problem. What happens in the event there is a short in the LED circuit? Depending on the gauge of the wires(typically 20 or higher) used, the insulation on the wires will melt long before a 15 amp fuse will blow and if the wire in question is near something flammable, you will have a car fire on your hands. For those reading this thread that are interested, please refer to the following chart in order to determine the proper fuse rating for a number of typical gauges: Wire/Fuse Guide - SMD Forum
You may be willing to take additional risks when setting up your circuit, but before posting a tutorial it may behoove you to understand a little bit about the psychobabble I speak of or take your own advice:
"A "novice" should not be attempting installs like this without having some basic electronics knowledge and experience."
I also agree with you on this matter.
That was the point I was trying to bring up and posted your install method to this thread.
Jmant83 in my opinion your method is a safer option. It might be up setting to SLX, but taking a chance and burning up a Outlander isn't an option. Even the most experienced professional installer can make a simple mistake. XLS doesn't like constructive criticism. Sorry but I could not be quiet as you wish me to be on your post XLS. No competition between your install and Jmant83. Just shedding some light on a possible safety issue. And if you dont like this, its a shame. SLX you seam to think this is a verbal attack on you and it isn't get over it. Enough of my psychobabble.
That was the point I was trying to bring up and posted your install method to this thread.
Jmant83 in my opinion your method is a safer option. It might be up setting to SLX, but taking a chance and burning up a Outlander isn't an option. Even the most experienced professional installer can make a simple mistake. XLS doesn't like constructive criticism. Sorry but I could not be quiet as you wish me to be on your post XLS. No competition between your install and Jmant83. Just shedding some light on a possible safety issue. And if you dont like this, its a shame. SLX you seam to think this is a verbal attack on you and it isn't get over it. Enough of my psychobabble.
I always appreciate "constructive" criticism from people that "genuinely" know what they are talking about, considering I may learn something.
It's too bad that you have not been able to substantiate any of your comments logically when responding. Clearly both of you have no "real" qualifications in electronics or automotive wiring.
Based on YOUR misinformed theories regarding how fused circuits function, all original factory wires in the vehicle would also burn up, in the event of a short circuit condition. Fortunately it does not function the way you guys think it does.
A short circuit will immediately blow any automotive fast blow fuse or fusible link, before ANY wiring would burn... that's what fuses are supposed to do when shorted or exceeded. Read carefully... fuse "ratings" are in relation to the maximum allowable current draw for a given circuit, not for the event of a short circuit, considering that these fuses will immediately blow upon a short circuit condition.
Short any gauge wire, within reason, that is connected to an automotive fast blow 15A fuse, that is connected to a 12V battery, and see if the wire catches fire, OR, if the fuse blows first.
Your reference to this info, Wire/Fuse Guide - SMD Forum , has nothing to do with, how a fast acting fuse will respond in a short circuit condition. You are once again misinterpreting something you have read, and do not understand what you are actually reading here, or in my posts for that matter.
Both your problems are, you do not read properly, do not posses any fundamental or basic electronics knowledge, and base all your comments on your misinterpretations and ignorance. You are only spreading misinformation, which is too bad for the people that really want to learn. Instead of learning something from the post, you continue to challenge the credibility, when you both clearly do not have the credentials to do so.
As I have said, spare me the "psychobabble", get over yourselves, and change the channel.
#20
08-31-2011, 11:58 PM
I really like the floor idea...next on my list.
I used 2x30cm LED strips for the trunk. I placed them under the retractable cargo cover bar. Drilled a tiny hole (where the cargo bar rests in) and ran the wires behind the carpets up to the rear dome light. The LED strips will come on when you open the trunk.
Now I can finally see my trunk in the dark!
I used 2x30cm LED strips for the trunk. I placed them under the retractable cargo cover bar. Drilled a tiny hole (where the cargo bar rests in) and ran the wires behind the carpets up to the rear dome light. The LED strips will come on when you open the trunk.
Now I can finally see my trunk in the dark!