Hey all,

I've heard two schools of thought on replacing these fluids? Thoughts about this on our outlanders? Mine is 2009 with 106,000KM on it.

Some say replace both, some say don't replace either at all.....

Verdict?

Thanks!

 

REPLACE BOTH!

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture from anything. Over time, brake fluid will accumulate a certain amount of water/air and consequently will reduce your braking force and the boiling point of the fluid. I have boiled old brake fluid before, and you lose all braking. It should be replaced every 3-4 years.

As for the PS fluid, there are conditioners to keep the pump lubricated. If the fluid smells burnt, or is not its original color, replace it. This is actually super simple and easy. Most vehicles (check your owners manual) use automatic transmission fluid for the power steering. Only Hondas and some other European makes use a special power steering fluid specifically for that purpose. There are two hoses going to your power steering reservoir, one is a suction, the other is the return.

In order to change your brake fluid, here's what you do:

1) Open the brake fluid cap
2) Crack open all bleed nipples on the calipers and let them drip
3) MAKE SURE THE RESERVOIR STAYS FULL. Never let it suck in air.
4) When all the fluid dripping looks sparking clean, start closing them off, starting from the furthest from the brake master cylinder, to the closest. Without this, you may have a mushy pedal.

To change the PS fluid:

The hose on the bottom of the PS reservoir is the suction, you want to place that hose into the fresh can of PS fluid. The return hose, you should place into an old milk jug or something. Then start the car, and turn the wheel all the way to the left, then the right. You will want to have someone else do this, so that you can make sure the fluid is always being sucked up. Make sure it doesn't suck air as that'll harm the pump over time. You may need a couple quarts for this. When the fluid out of the return line looks like the fluid going in, stop. Then reattach the hoses, fill the reservoir, start the car one more time, and turn the wheel all the way in each direction again. NEVER hold the wheel against either steering lock for anything more than a second, this will burn out the pump. You'll notice it may make an ugly sound when you do.

After that, you should have fresh brake fluid, and fresh power steering fluid coursing through.

Hope that helps! Don't be afraid to pick up some wrenches

 

Very good post and I'll sure to follow when the time comes.

Is this how you have done on your mitsubishi, the factory manual recommend disconnect some coilpack or something so it cranks without starting the car.

The reason is there is some believe if the engine is started the RPM is too high and might cause air to be sucked in or something?

I was wondering if there is a EFI fuse or something that can be removed so the fuel system isn't putting fuel in the cylinder.



Also, if you are a moderator can you change the forum sorting to newest first.. I'm sure it will make the forum easier to use and draw in more users to this forum.

 

There is no sense killing the EFI system. It's okay if some air gets sucked into the power steering, just as long as the pump isn't run dry for more than a few seconds. This is how I've done every vehicle. Bleeding the PS system is the easiest thing in the world, just turn the wheel all the way in both directions a couple times.

If you were doing a compression test, I would say yank the EFI fuse.

After this forum underwent a software update, there were a few little hiccups. That's one of them that was never fixed, that's something the webmaster will have to take care of. I've been complaining about this crap forever!

I'm one of the few people active on here that actually knows what needs to be done and has the time to implement these changes. I only have the ability to move posts, change threads, delete stuff, ban people, and I have access to profiles. That's about it.

EDIT: I sent ANOTHER message to the Webmaster, we will see what becomes of it.

 

I also jacked up the front wheels off the ground to do steering lock to lock, so you just turn yours while on the ground?

 

I do, but that's not too good for the tires. Raising them off the ground will be better.

Also, if you're going to raise the wheels off the ground, and you don't want the pump to suck up the fluid too fast, you could just do as you said; remove the EFI fuse and crank the car over while turning the wheel. That'd give you more control over the flow rate.

It's all a matter of personal preference. I'm always about consistency, efficiency, and quality. I like to do things as quickly as possible without compromising the quality of work, and hence I skip that step.

 

When I did my PS change, I let her go dry, but not for too long. Then I filled it back up with fresh.

The only "danger" I see by doing it Sebba's way is the possibility of dirt being knocked off the exterior of the hose when inserted into bottle/container of fresh fluid...which would then get sucked into the system, possibly damaging seals. Make sure 'yer hose is clean before you dunk it. (Why do I hear the voice of Red from The Red Green Show)

Pick your poison.

 

Excellent point!

 

You might also try sucking the old fluid out using a large syringe or something. People like to call that the turkey baster method, but there is a guard molded into the reservoir, keeping a real turkey baster out. I bet a large syringe or something like that with a thin hose would be able to get in there. You'd do that every oil change. I'm not a big fan of that...but it is an option.

Our manual does state to use "Genuine" Mitsu PSF. I called up my local dealerships and asked what they use. One said PSF, one said ATF. I used Valvoline PSF in mine I think.


As for the brake fluid, Sebba is spot on. That fluid absorbs moisture from the air and does need to be replaced. I try to do mine every 2 years, Missouri does get pretty humid in the summer (nice blue haze while looking out over fields). I have a MightyVac system that sucks the old fluid out. Works great and quick. One thing Sebba forgot, you start at on the longest brake line. So usually the reservoir is in front of the driver...so pattern is normally Rear Right, RL, FR, FL.

 

I did not forget bud! I said to close them off starting from the furthest from the master cylinder. I don't think it matters which order you crack them open in.