Hi all,

My 3-month old (Boston weather) 2010's rotors already rusted all over!!!! I'd like to upgrade the OEM rotors to some premium and performance ones, better with stainless steel (don't know if they exist?? but always see in silver color), and upgrade the calipers to something like in racing cars with color.

how are these compared in terms of performance and durability:
dimples & slots
drills & slots
drills or slots only
flat smooth (with nothing on)

does anyone has good recommendations? do they come with both in a kit? or if i purchase the caliper paints and paint them myself will save a some money?

any thoughts and suggestions will be appreciated.

jsrd, i remember you once were looking for similar upgrades, what did you end up with?

thanks

 

The design for the cross drilled holes are for heat dissipation and to keep the rotors from becoming damaged and warped from hard braking during racing. If you are interested in having the racing look, you can purchase Brembo cross drilled rotors for around $180 each. As for stopping your Outlander better, they will. But nothing to brag about. If you are into racing and putting the hooks on a lot, they will prove themselves useful.
http://www.carbonzbrakes.com/drilled-slotted-rotors.php

The same goes for high performance calipers and using synthetic racing brake fluid. (if you are racing, do it)

My calipers rusted after a very short time like yours. I removed them, used a wire wheel to remove the rust and used a paint called POR (paint over rust) on them. I painted them red and they look great.

http://www.por15.com/

 

Great post ramon. Also, I think you'll always have rust on the non-contact surfaces...you can try high-temp engine paint, but stay away from the rotors contact surface.

 

Verry true but the POR paint works much better on rusty surfaces then high temp paint. Dont get it on your hands...lol

 

I was assuming rust would be taken off somehow first. I've heard of POR...never messed with it. I hear it is effective, but expensive.

 

In addition to heat dissipation/regulation, gasses which build up between the rotor and pad, or liner, are ventilated. Any build-up on the pads are 'shaved' off by the slots, leaving a clean friction surface (=increased stopping power). Some have mentioned a 'hissing' or 'whooshing' sound of these gasses escaping when using the drilled/slotted set-up, and if this doesn't bother you, the increased braking performance is definitely noticeable.

Some have said that for maximum "economy", an upgrade rotor and standard, or less-than-premium pads (which can be changed easily, rather than the machining of rotors and replacing of pads-not cheap rotors and top-of-the-line-pads) is the way to go, especially if you're a do-it-yourself-er who can change pads themselves to save labor costs.

'Racing' brakes can be set up as such that, in order for them to work at their best, the surfaces (ceramic,carbon-exotic materials) need to be heated up somewhat in order to get the best performance. Rotors can look rusty if you've driven, and then had the vehicle sit for some time. A good drive ('spiritedly'-with good, hard braking) will usually take care of this light 'surface rust', but if it's much more severe (pitting) you may want the dealership to have a look, and 'turning', or a few thousandths of surface from the rotor may need to be taken off.

Upgraded braking systems (6-piston front, 4-piston rear calipers with brackets, slotted, drilled rotors, braided stainless steel flex lines) are available on the market for the four and six-cylinder Outlander.
(www.colt-speed.ca) - see under 'Also Available' section. There is a set for the Outlander, as well as the EVO X.

So what's your driving style? What's your budget?

As for calipers, you could consider painting them yourself; there are kits out there, but the properly* done job would take many hours (approx. 10) to remove, prepare, paint, and then re-install and properly bleed the lines, but the payoff is apparently worth it, if one can afford the time.

There are many companies out there that offer great products. Research, keep asking questions, and then find the setup that's right for you!

*one could pressure-wash and then sand any blemishes away, and then paint around fittings, but the durability and longevity are questionable, especially in the north.

 

thanks a lot, RAMON, sounds great! so don't we have to worry about the rust on the rotors? are those 'carbonz' rotors stainless steel? by the way, what is the wire wheel you used to remove the rust?

i did a little search, and seems like Brembo don't have rotors for Outie...so which lancer model is compatible with our Outie??

 

Co Speed is one of the top brands for Mits. Sounds cool it has the full brake kit available, the picture on the website seems only has one set of rotors and calipers, don't know how many pieces parts coming all together, and of course, the price. and do you know if they only has the silver color calipers available with the kit, otherwise, i still have to paint them myself before putting it on....but by doing that, i will ruin the original cold speed marks, which i wouldn't to bother...

back to the rotors surface rust, are you suggesting that is totally fine except the pitting exist? so seems there's no stainless steel rotors or at least not popular? are those racing rotors just having a coat of bright silver plating, and eventually will rust??...

 

I believe Porsche's carbon rotors do not rust

 

Rust on rotors is normal. As soon as you drive the car and hit brakes once - it is gone.
I don't see a problem.

As for cross drilled or slotted rotors... You realize that by drilling and slotting, some of the rotor surface area is removed, right? You need as much surface area for the best stopping.

Also expect your pads to wear out sooner with drilled and slotted rotors.

Also the expensive drilled rotors you see on expensive performance cars are very different from the cheaply drilled "made in China" rotors you can find on Ebay - the expensive ones are cast with the holes in them. The cheap ones are made from cheap blanks, and holes are drilled into them often without any special preparation. Often the holes are drilled straight through the cooling vanes, which leads to premature rotor failures (like cracking).

P.S. rotors don't warp. "Warping" is a wrongly used term.
http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/a...aspx?ID=207857