Mitsubishi Outlander The new crossover from Mitsubishi, mixing the usefulness of an SUV with the size and convenience of a sport wagon.

Broken Timing belt?

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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 12:24 AM
  #11  
OutlanderGT's Avatar
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I wouldn't worry about it too much, the V6 spend most of it's time at 2000 RPM which is very low wear, compared to the 4G63 that always gets rev'd to 7000 in the eclipse.
if you buy new you do get 100k warranty so if it breaks it is covered.
 
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 06:44 PM
  #12  
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Default timing belt 2011 V6

cost to replace timing belt
 
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 06:56 PM
  #13  
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just a far out suggestion, but how about doing preventative maintenance, rather than driving a vehicle into the ground.
 
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 08:35 PM
  #14  
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About $38 + shipping and tax.

 
Old Dec 12, 2014 | 08:31 PM
  #15  
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old, I know ---
just bought a service manual for 2007 Outlander.
Piston overhaul section shows this pic which indeed indicates piston divots for valve clearance.

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Gates belt catalog also does not have * for 6B31, which indicates interference engine.
 
Old Mar 5, 2015 | 10:32 AM
  #16  
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I'm confused tomwalshco. Above O-lander says that divots indicate a non-interference design. You mention the same from your manual but then say that it's a interference engine?
 
Old Mar 5, 2015 | 11:00 AM
  #17  
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I didn't say that.
All I was saying is that an asterisk * on a Gates part number indicates a belt kit for an interference engine.


O-lander above is correct. It all depends on the year.


ccernst must have just gotten "blown off" when he called (because all newer V-6s are interference engines).
 
Old Mar 5, 2015 | 01:46 PM
  #18  
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Thanks for the clarification tomwalshco, wasn't trying to put words in your mouth. So all 2007-2009's should be non-interference and anything newer will be interference?
 
Old Mar 5, 2015 | 02:23 PM
  #19  
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Yep -- O-lander nailed it.


A follow on my story ....
Took my '07 in 1st of the year to get the belt done, 120,000. ~ $1100, included water pump, all OEM stuff.


When I originally bought it, I quizzed the guy pretty hard about the timing belt, but he looked at me like he had no idea what I was talking about. He'd owned it since 35,000. So I assumed it had never been done.
Used that point to lower price some. (He had all his receipts from day 1, even oil changes)


Anyway -- looking at the old parts after the job and they looked pretty good. Belt was just a bit shiny, but little sign of wear and the water pump looked brand new. Think it's all stainless.


Guess I was just a lucky guy ...
 
Old Aug 3, 2016 | 02:56 PM
  #20  
binzd's Avatar
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Default How do you say idiot in Japanese

I am an idiot. Tried to do a slide off / slide on timing belt change.

I changed the timing belt (110k miles) and missed the step about rotating the crank counterclockwise, then clockwise and checking the timing marks again. Plus it says to rotate the crank twice and wait 5 minutes to check again.

Anyhow it didn't start on the first crank so I took the covers and belts back off, I was two teeth away from the timing mark on the left bank. I set it correctly (going up around the left bank first while keeping tension on the belt and then slipping over the right bank - the bank that tries to take your thumb off every time) and when I cranked it, it fired right up then promptly died.

Is it possible I screwed the pooch on the valves? I don't want to disassemble the top of the engine and find the heads ok. Will measuring valve height on the correctly timed engine show if any are bent?

Again, I am an idiot who tried to rush a timing belt change that didn't need changing. Seriously if you live in So Cal I would lay money on that belt lasting 200k easy. The thing is perfect when compared to the Gates replacement.

Who's got advice for me, please and thank you
 



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