Broken Timing belt?
#41
2008 Outlander Timing Belt Broken. Help!!
Has anyone had experience a broken timing belt on this models? Or is experienced enough to have open the engine to shed some light?
I do not want to spent the money fixing the engine. If its just putting a new belt and get back to life, surely I would love to do so.
Please help.
#42
so sorry, but....
the intake valves are interference and the exhaust valves are not
I know this because I did not correctly set my front bank during a belt change and bent all the valves
Good news, if you have a decent tool set and a lot of time, it's pretty easy to tear the top end apart and get the heads off
Bad news, a shop would charge a lot for this
If you decide to do it I could give you a few hints and suggestions that I've learned
I know this because I did not correctly set my front bank during a belt change and bent all the valves
Good news, if you have a decent tool set and a lot of time, it's pretty easy to tear the top end apart and get the heads off
Bad news, a shop would charge a lot for this
If you decide to do it I could give you a few hints and suggestions that I've learned
#43
the intake valves are interference and the exhaust valves are not
I know this because I did not correctly set my front bank during a belt change and bent all the valves
Good news, if you have a decent tool set and a lot of time, it's pretty easy to tear the top end apart and get the heads off
Bad news, a shop would charge a lot for this
If you decide to do it I could give you a few hints and suggestions that I've learned
I know this because I did not correctly set my front bank during a belt change and bent all the valves
Good news, if you have a decent tool set and a lot of time, it's pretty easy to tear the top end apart and get the heads off
Bad news, a shop would charge a lot for this
If you decide to do it I could give you a few hints and suggestions that I've learned
One mechanic has already quoted me $2000 just for labour lol.
I guess I will do this on my own if thats the case.
Please provide suggestion and ideas to how to go about this? what amount of man hours are we looking at? Also what components are we looking to replace and its cost?
The codes it generated are:
P0340 [Camshaft position sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor)]
P1235 (DTC definition is not available)
#44
A lot less than $2000
Off the top of my head (pretending to work in the office)
New parts you have to get:
Plenum gasket
Head gasket kit
New intake valves
Timing belt
Main crank bolt
Parts you probably should get:
Head bolts (procedure calls for new ones, but I only replaced the one I stripped)
New hoses (mine were spongy, so one was going to burst soon anyway)
New drive belts (just wanted to do them all at the same time)
New valve seats/gaskets (mine still looked good so I didn't buy)
New gasket material for timing belt covers
Iridium spark plugs (chances are the rear plugs have never been changed)
New Oil and Bosch Filter (fresh oil for first startup is ideal)
New Coolant (can reuse but be sure to filter it well)
Things I did while everything was apart:
Cleaned and resealed the throttle plate
Sprayed the runners with cleaner and gave them some loving
Replaced the coolant neck (if it's funky white inside the plastic is degrading)
Replaced the thermostat
Replaced all the thermostat related gaskets (there's a bunch)
Replaced the heater core hoses too (you're already back there)
Replaced the timing cover piece gaskets (all dried out)
Tools I had to buy for this:
Pulley holder for main crank and cam shaft bolts
12 point sockets to use on the head bolts
Valve spring compressor (required heavy modification to fit into the narrow passages)
Valve lapper
Small torque wrench (my regular one doesn't go below 30 ft lbs)
Stupid degree measuring tool for stretching the bolts
Supplies:
The above mentioned oil and coolant
Assembly lube
Valve lapping compound
Throttle body cleaner
Krytox GPL 215 Molybedenum
Sandwich and snack baggies
Post It's and blue tape
(my memory is not always so great)
Assorted cardboard
(placing the bolts into the same position as they came out)
Stuff I did that you probably don't have to do:
(but it made it a lot easier for me)
Remove the battery and tray then tie back the cables
Remove the radiator but obviously leave the condenser (those clips are a real pain)
(supported with a piece of 2x4 and covered in carboard plus rags)
Removed all the cladding under the passenger front wheel well
Removed the entire harness from engine
(wrapped in a sheet then put off the drivers side)
(those clips are in stupid ridiculous positions, so it takes an assortment of small screwdrivers and picks to release them without damage)
Off the top of my head (pretending to work in the office)
New parts you have to get:
Plenum gasket
Head gasket kit
New intake valves
Timing belt
Main crank bolt
Parts you probably should get:
Head bolts (procedure calls for new ones, but I only replaced the one I stripped)
New hoses (mine were spongy, so one was going to burst soon anyway)
New drive belts (just wanted to do them all at the same time)
New valve seats/gaskets (mine still looked good so I didn't buy)
New gasket material for timing belt covers
Iridium spark plugs (chances are the rear plugs have never been changed)
New Oil and Bosch Filter (fresh oil for first startup is ideal)
New Coolant (can reuse but be sure to filter it well)
Things I did while everything was apart:
Cleaned and resealed the throttle plate
Sprayed the runners with cleaner and gave them some loving
Replaced the coolant neck (if it's funky white inside the plastic is degrading)
Replaced the thermostat
Replaced all the thermostat related gaskets (there's a bunch)
Replaced the heater core hoses too (you're already back there)
Replaced the timing cover piece gaskets (all dried out)
Tools I had to buy for this:
Pulley holder for main crank and cam shaft bolts
12 point sockets to use on the head bolts
Valve spring compressor (required heavy modification to fit into the narrow passages)
Valve lapper
Small torque wrench (my regular one doesn't go below 30 ft lbs)
Stupid degree measuring tool for stretching the bolts
Supplies:
The above mentioned oil and coolant
Assembly lube
Valve lapping compound
Throttle body cleaner
Krytox GPL 215 Molybedenum
Sandwich and snack baggies
Post It's and blue tape
(my memory is not always so great)
Assorted cardboard
(placing the bolts into the same position as they came out)
Stuff I did that you probably don't have to do:
(but it made it a lot easier for me)
Remove the battery and tray then tie back the cables
Remove the radiator but obviously leave the condenser (those clips are a real pain)
(supported with a piece of 2x4 and covered in carboard plus rags)
Removed all the cladding under the passenger front wheel well
Removed the entire harness from engine
(wrapped in a sheet then put off the drivers side)
(those clips are in stupid ridiculous positions, so it takes an assortment of small screwdrivers and picks to release them without damage)
#46
Strange part it, it was just replaced 14 months ago and didn't even put over 20K Kms and it broke. I had changed the whole kit along with the water pump.
If anyone reading this a% looking for advise, DO NOT use a DNJ timing belt kit.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
n.w.m
Mitsubishi Montero & Montero Sport
1
07-16-2017 12:09 PM