I can add this little bit of information. I had 2 eclipse motors built the same (well second motor was buitl to correct specs). I took the first one and babied it down long high ways up to 500 miles. I changed the oil and went from there like normal. I had the second motor built and stomped it hard after driving it for 5 mins and got on it hard now and then up to 500 miles. I got up to 500 miles after hard driving and changed the oil. After both ways the motor still ran. I had no bad effects from the way I broke in either motor. I dont the break in both ways and was happy with the outcome of both.

 

In order for that to be purposful information you need to of had them both till they broke.

 

I beat the hell out of mine (full auto & auto stick) and had no problems.

 

Just drive it normally. I figure they get a decent break in from the test drives..everyone wants to see how much 'pep' it has

That article has alot of good points and I followed many of them when I put bigger cylinders/pistons on my bike.

 

I was told to break the engine in gently but to take it up to the red linefor say 30 seconds now and againafter 400m then use normal driving. My UK car magazine auto express strip cars down after 60000 miles and they can tell if the engine been abused by score marks on the pistons.

But having a diesel you are told to drive them hard after 500 miles otherwise the pistons glaze themselves. Only thing with a turbo diesel is to let it idle for 3 minutes before driving and leave it idling for 3 minutes after motorway/high speeddriving before switching off to allow the turbo to cool down otherwise you will fry the bearings.

Uk spec Mitsubishi car have beding in oil which is then changed after 10000miles for fully synthetic oil

VW diesel engines do burn oil so keep an eye on the oil level

 

When you look at the metal content after the fist 20 miles, it will be about the same as an average 5000 miles.

Yes you are right, conventional oil is best for the break in, and after 1000 miles the switch to synthetic should be made.

Diesels are very different. I wouldnt know the first thing about what to do.

 

My take on the synthetic was you can use it during break in (it isn't THAT slick)..it's that you're throwing away money, if you're going to change it out so early..one of thebig benefits of syn is that it holds up better over time

 

Thats not what i understood. During break in, there is a lot more friction with conventional oil, and that friction is needed to seal the rings. Synthetic = less friction and therefor less ring seal.

I think that is mentioned in that article some place.

Although, there is a member on here called Manybrews, he has been a Mitsu tech for over 15 years and he has told me that the only difference between conventional and synthetic is that synthetic protects in the higher temp ranges, where conventional just decomposes. Im not quite sure if im ready to believe that there is no difference in the normal opperating temp lubrication... you be the judge.

 

I have to second what Sebba has said, I follow the mototune breakin on my bikes and cars.

Make the first oil change early between 500-1000 miles. Im with Sebba on synthetic, use it after at least 5K, but its up to you theres people with opinions on both sides.

Most of all let the engine warm up a bitafter its sat all night before hitting the accelerator hard. It lets the oil get to the bits that are important and do its thing.

 

I dont pay for my servicing the lease company pay it all I have to do is follow my service interval as set in the service book on time +/- 150 miles

But I still look after it as though its mine and if it in good condition when it goes back they give me £200

Puddy