I live in Canada, therefore winters are cold. When I start my 07 Outlander before going out to let it warm up, I notice something...

I can let the vehicle run for 10-15 minutes before going out and when I enter the vehicle, it's still not warm. The heater is blowing luke warm air. As soon as I get it on the road and hit the gas, the heater starts blowing HOT air...the way it should be. As soon as I get to a red light and stop the vehicle, the air temperature changes back to luke warm. (not cold, but not hot either)

Any ideas to why?

I checked the antifreeze level and it's completely topped up.
I also started my vehicle this morning with the rad cap loosened off in case I had an air leak. Still the same thing happened on my way home from work.

Any ideas why it won't blow hot air while idiling but as soon as I hit the gas and start moving it changes to hot?

 

It's a known issue and MMNA refuses to do anything about it...claiming it's "normal."

Here's my original post about this same issue last year:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f159ef4/0

 

The Outie air conditioning system warm air from a little heat exchanger (air/liquid, same liquid used for engine cooling), this is fixed inside the central console, but many cars during warm up have a temperature sensitive valve that don't permit to coolant to go on periferic parts of circuit like heat exchanger and work in a "closed circuit configuration" and open only when engine rpm goes up and the coolant has reached a good temp.
so untill the air conditioning system do not "feel" hot liquid in the internal heat exchanger doesn't start fan.

 

Today I saw such situation.
Outside temp was -15*C. I had turn temperature indicator on dashboard. And what I saw? Every time when I started press on gaz, engine temp raised on couple pixels. When I idle on red light - temperature lowered...

I guess that engine (2.4) has effective cooling system (for South countries). In northern we need to think - howwe can save warm. First think - get some cardboard and put it between radiator and bumper.

Just don't forget put it out in march...

 

You should never loosen the rad cap the system is a closed system this stop the water boiling in the coolant system if it overheats and boils you will blow the headgasket and warp the head a repair that warranty will notcover you for. The expansion tank will filter air out of the system.

As for blowing cold at tick over you could ask them to check the thermostat is the correct one fitted at the factory for your area I would tell them you want it changed anyway. You could fit a block heater to warm the car before you drive/leave home its just soo cold where you live.

puddy
ps dont use cardboard between the radiator and bumper may have worked in 70/80.s but not onmodern computer controlled cartoo many other sensor on a car these days

 

Itwas a joke. But latest Peugeot 407 (shark) has plastic shield provided by manufacturer for closing radiator in winter. Is this modern car?

I interested your words about thermostat. Do you now it part numbers for different regions? I'll check it.
Temperature dancing on dash is worry forme.I know that any engine has own optimal working temperature. With wrong thermostat it never be accessible.

 

Most cars don't blow the warmest as they idle low. Seen it in many different makes, models, and years.

 

Engine produces the most heat when driving and hitting the gas. Not when idleing.

In some cities it is against the law to leave your car unoccupied and running. They call them "puffers". Something about more Co2 and that it makes it easier for thieves to steal cars. This is obviously for the larger cities, Denver, included. I just saw a news piece that said they are going to start "cracking" down harder...

 

If this matters at all, Mazda3 behaves the same way. I remember owners complaining about it on the forums, but in the end it seems like it "works as designed". I think same applies to the Outlander and perhaps other cars these days.