I am about to have a nudge bar fitted and I have bought two spotlights to fit onto it.

Using a wiring loom it should be a hassle free install, however, I need to run the switch wire into the cabin.

The firewall looks very secure and I can't see anywhere to run the wire in.

Does anyone know how I could run the wire into the cabin on a 2010 ZH Outlander please?

 

I drilled a hole shown in the attached picture and used 100% silicone caulk to seal the hole after the wire was passed through. I also used heat shrink as a type of grommet to thicken and protect the wire as it passed through the firewall.

 

Thanks Ramon, I spoke with a Mitsubishi mechanic today.

He said to remove either of the inner plastic guards under the front wheel arch, there is apparently a wiring loom entering the cabin from the engine bay via a rubber grommet.

He said to follow the loom and access is easy?

 

That's cool pls let me know how it works out for you. From in the vehicle I saw the loom coming in. From under the hood it looked somewhat difficult. That is why I went the route that I did.

 

Well the Mitsubishi mechanic was wrong!

I pulled off both inner guards there is no access into the cabin.

I went back to see them and nobody at the dealership has a clue!

What I was told is not to drill as my warranty may be voided.

It will interesting, I have booked in for them to do the job, as they don't know what to do the result will be interesting.

 

I may well be the only one reading tis thread, however, I now do need your help.

The Mitsubishi Australia Engineers do not know who to access the cabin from the engine bay, they have opened a ticket on how to do it?

Could anyone in the USA or UK etc contact Mitsubishi Customer Service and ask them how to thread wires from the engine bay into the cabin of a 2010 Outlander please?

Surely this can be done without drilling and voiding the warranty?

 

well, I think I'd press the dealership for a yes/no regarding the warranty issue. If done properly (rubber grommets and silicone sealant), I don't see why they'd void it.

Anyway, have you thought of something like this?
http://www.relaycontrollers.com/Rela...ELAY1_WIRELESS
I haven't read too many of the descriptions, but if you could get a wireless signal into the engine bay, you could wirelessly control a relay.

I'm guessing you'd want these separate of fog lights?

 

Wire loom pass-through is in the center of the car, just over the transmission tunnel.
Follow the wires coming from the ABS pump and they run up under some heat shield and back into the cab.
You can pull the tape off the neck of the big grommet, run your wires through and tape it back up.

Other way is pull the scuttle trim off and where the air for the heater gets drawn in you can drill a hole through the plastic ducting (so no risk of rusting or shorts) and poke the wire through. It will come out in the passanger footwell if you take the upper footwell trim off.

If it's only for spotlights though why not just hook off the back of a main beam bulb through a relay and have them on all the time with main beam?
You could still put a switch under the hood to turn them off if needed.

I ran a load of wires through to control the lighting on my L200 but 90% of the time my low spots come on with headlights and the top ones with main beam. Never see a reason to turn them off then!

 

hotponyshoes, you are a star.

The Mitzi mechanic had big problems with your first suggestion, he couldn't find the right grommet.

Your second suggestion to go via the air intake did the trick.

Given that Mitsubishi Australia had no idea on how to do this, you did very well hotponyshoes.

 

The picture shows the components of the firewall/bulkhead.
Apart form the front heat shield they are all fided together.
Pop off the plastic clips holding the silver heat shield and you will see.

The red line I have put on the drawing shows the route to run.

Also, by grommet I am not talking about a small round thing, this is a big rubber square thing maybe 3" by 2" or so.
It also has a plastic insert holding it in place so don't try and pull it out, just feed your wires from the back of the grommet sleeve.