well I did my first (and only) brake job around mid oct/early nov. I have one side that is grinding the warning (and now since its january I think its nearing metal). what I cant figure out is why its only on one side (passenger). I know I did the break job myself, but I had someone, my mechanic, look it over and hes said i did it correctly.

I had asked if the brakes needed to be bled, but he said that they dont require it (and that he doesnt do it to his own mitsu - a early 90's galant, i think). I used to bleed the brakes on my '90 toyota 4runner.

was he wrong on this? my front driver side is wearing down correctly is there is still maybe 15k miles left on it... but my other one is almost completely worn down, and I cant figure out why...

 

1. Remove brake fluid fill cap.
2. Remove old brake pads
3. Push back calipers.
4. Install new pads.
5. Replace brake fluid fill cap.

If you didn't drain the brake fluid, there's no reason to bleed the brakes. Bleeding gets rid of air in the lines. Unless there was air in the line to begin with, it should be fine. Your problem is symptematic of air in the line. It couldn't hurt to bleed if you know what you're doing.

 

I think air in the line can be what's making one side different than the other. Can you just start over again?

 

when the caliper piston is pushed, air will circulate back and will get stock inside the reservoir. try to release some of that air by un-capping the resevoir. just changed my pads, it took 11 months for my pads to be replaced. ( since am' racing the son of a..) i, used genuine mitsu. pads last time, now am' using kragens.....i, dont know but kragens pads aint workin good, compare to mitsu's.brake pads.[X(] i, paid $60 something for the pads that spits dusts already.

 

by the way, its better to bleed em' now...(while you on it) or ya'll goin to regret it soon when you get done installin pads.

 

no choice, I going to re-do them in a few hours.

 

yes this is exactly what I did... i hope this doesnt end up being a time consuming job (weather is going to be bad for a few days, and I need this done asap)

 

yaw good to go....but again, its better to bleed the damn thing. sometimes regular pads replacement causes a tiny pressure ( when push piston back to the housing) and all will experience right after the installation. and i, hate it when i install something, only to find out afterwards that the part /parts aint working or defective and need to be re-install. so, check on it carefully (esp. the pins, sometimes its pain in the ***) when you push the piston back to chamber, make sure resevoir cap is tighten. and dont get kragens pads, too expensive and aint workin good.

 

what about resurfacing rotors. I was always told not to resurface them if there weren't any grooves in them. This was back on my 79 camaro. I recently read in a newer non mitsu manual to lightly sand the rotors to remove any glazing, etc that may have occured. I have always done my own brakes and never had a problem. I did my wifes brakes on her 04 buick, didn't turn the rotors and her brakes were acting up a month later. took it to the shop and they said to always turn them. Her rotors were REALLY grooved, but weren't when I installed and I kept them free of debris. Did you guys turn, or just replace the pads?

 

Big Pun...any updates?