Can someone walk me through how to remove the oil filter on the V6 Outlander?

I already found it, it's a Japanese mitsu filter that comes with the car. I have a universal oil filter tool that should be able to grab it and turn it.

The access seems too out of the way to use a rag to clean the mating surface on the engine block. Do you guys do this?

But I heard the one I buy from the dealer now is different diameter. I plan to buy the right filter wrench "cap" for this. And have also heard you really have to torque down the filter to spec or it would leak. I have always hand tightened the filters in other car and never had a problem.

Thanks for any advice you can give.. working on a lift and level surface so I don't need jack lesson for this.

 

I remove it from the bottom, pretty tight fit. The only time I needed a wrench was when I first bought it. Both 08 v6 outies I have only screwed them hand tight, never had a leak, they seal themselves.

 

The filter on my RVR was put on with ape like strenght from the factory also. What a pain! Use dish gloves, better grip!

 

There is some plastic "under-bumper" partially covering access to the oil filter. I just gently bend it and stick my hand up to reach the filter. I have a bunch of filter wrench adapters, so I try them until I find the one that fits.

There is a metal spout just below the filter, it is designed to catch the oil run-off. I usually stuff a rag under that spout because otherwise the oil often spills onto the exposed parts of the starter.

 

I take the plastic panel off underneath the oil filter. I don't use a wrench. Hand tight is tight enough, I haven't leaked yet from the filter. That drip-funnel/guard thing works best if the vehicle is level and you let the filter slowly drain for a bit...it can't handle much fluid.

I've gotten to the point that I have four 4x4 boards that I drive up on...very stable, enough room to change the oil, and level vehicle (if your ground is level...which it should be)

 

I tighten mine on with a torque wrench because I just find it easier with an end cap wrench on ramps without the body panel removed. I use a 65mm with 14 flutes and has “KD 3253 USA” stamped on it from NAPA for my AMSOIL EAO15K13. The WIX filter needs a different sized wrench - it's larger.

When your buying your filter walk to the filter wrench aisle and find the size that fits.

~12ft-lbs does it for me. I set my torque wrench to 140 inch-lbs and tighten until it clicks. Don't forget to put fresh oil on the gasket as that changes the torque characteristics.

Service Manual shows two filters with these specs. Should probably drop my torque to 130 in-lbs for next time.
Approximately 3/4 turn [16 ± 4 N·m (12 ± 3 ft-lb)]
Approximately one turn [14 ± 2 N·m (124 ± 18 in-lb)]

 

I finally changed my oil on my 2012 GT. Easy but a little messy.

There is enough clearance to use a universal filter grabber tool with a ratchet, although the plastic gets in a way a little bit. The factory filter from Japan is on pretty darn tight.

I let the oil drain out very slowerly, and it still have oil come out from the holes of the ribbed shield under the starter. After an hour I thought it was ok to remove the filter, then another good 1/4 qt of oil drops out suddenly running down my arm and clothes!

the mitsu filter are denso and prelubed with grease and wrapped so I didn't put any oil on the gasket because I think that was the point of the grease isn't it. To condition the o-ring during storage and also speed up the oil change for technician, I hope that doesn't mess things up.
using a paint market to mark the filter, I was able to get ALMOST 3/4 turn by hand using a grippy glove. Filled up and started the engine and no leaks so I didn't use a torque wrench on it. On the toyota and mitsubishi which uses denso filters I have always used "as tight as possible by hand" and it never seemed to have a problem. Ccernst had alot of miles on his so I trust hand tighten should be OK.

The KD tool for toyota also fits the mitsu filter (skinny one) perfectly.

So far I have put in 4.5 quart and the oil level is about 1/2 way between the 2 holes in the dipstick. (have to wait about 8 hours after any engine starting to check the dipstick to be able to get any good reading)

 

I never use a wrench to tighten a new filter - use only hands for that.

But often an old filter is hard to twist off - that's when I use a wrench.

 

This was my most recent oil change.

 

I always seem to take an oil shower getting the old filter off as well.
As for tightening as long as it doesn't leak and you can take if off at the next oil change you're good to go.
I've given up with the Outlander and just use a little inch-lbs torque wrench with my endcap socket @ 130inch-lbs which is around 11ft-lbs. Now I don't have to look at the filter just keep turning until the wrench clicks. This torque seems easy enough to take off and doesn't leak. The manual spec's something between 9 and 15ft-lbs depending on the filter used and has a huge error gap of +/- 3ft-lbs

I always put a smear of oil on the o-ring but I'm sure it will be fine unless you wiped off all the old oil from the engine mating surface - just makes for a smooth installation and allows you to tighten the filter with more torque than a dry o-ring.

I do check for the old gasket to have stuck to the engine block - especially one that I had to wrestle off. Double gaskets will always leak.

4.5 quarts is what I put in and it goes to the same spot. The first thing I do for an oil change is check the oil level before draining it. Knock on wood I've never seen it move in a noticeable way through an oil change interval.

Once the engine ages and starts consuming oil I will top it up to the fill line but for now it's fine and hopefully that's a long ways off.