Replace Front/Rear Pads
#1
Replace Front/Rear Pads
Greetings
The 07 Outlander now has 13,700 miles to date. After 36,600 30-0 stops and 90% of the miles at an average of 19mph (official mitsu calculations per info center) I am averaging 12.7 mpg without any of the TSB's done. Jackrabbit starts, paddle shifting up and down about 50% of the time and 4wd lock since I discovered it gives 60/40 rear split without a wimper. I am again forced to address a brake issue. (Imagine that) Any who have followed my posts of past have read of my investigations into finding aftermarket parts. Its a bitch to say the least. I found aftermaket sets for both front and rear, fronts are 2004 Galant and rears are 2004/5 Endeavor. Yes, the Outtie is a parts bin assembly with a new body. Works for me, so far. Here is a few pictures and a parts list. I am assuming if someone knows what a 14mm box end wrench is I can by pass the safety things like jack stands and a floor jack on a concrete surface. (I personally like the thrill of the rig crashing onto floor and sending the tire leaning against it flying into the garage door but kids may be reading this so USE YOUR JACK STANDS) The rears are easier than the fronts and took a total time of 30 minutes, start to finish, clean hands and floor swept.
14mm box end wrench
1- Large flat blade screw driver
1-hammer
1- 10" C clamp (to push the caliper piston back)
rag
Part numbers are O'Reilly's specific but both are made by Wagner.
MX 866 fr.
SD 868 r.
Now for pics
[IMG]local://upfiles/13505/9578AF0DA5B84F33B1DD9ADAC133B045.jpg[/IMG]
1. Yes those are 14mm bolts, when you remove them put them on the rag so they do not get full of dirt and grit, they are greased and crap on them will hinder the float/movement.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13505/54A2CEEBBF0C4CC78A5C0045C7E93C36.jpg[/IMG]
2. After you tap off the caliper this is what you see and what you see is the channel the pad rides in and its full of road grit. See those stainless steel inserts? Put them back in if you pry them out. They keep the slop to a minimum by acting as a sort of spring. Don't ask, just make sure they are in place. Clean it out with the flat blade screw driver, the same one you use to pry out old pads and a shot of brake cleaner to finish.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13505/8C362C746AEB47C38917011427F239D8.jpg[/IMG]
3. This picture tells it all, the parking brake is a separate set of shoes. The rear pads do not set when you pull the parking brake. So, that may enlighten some here who thought pulling the e brake set the rear pads. It doesn't. See the piston extended in the caliper? This is where the C clamp comes in, gently press the piston back into the caliper and DO NOT PINCH the rubber boot that is around the piston. While the rotor is off take a few seconds and wipe the crap out of the shoes, if you have brake cleaner, give it a bath. I did.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13505/E3162DF00AB74F7F9CA4B80196075F78.jpg[/IMG]
4. I used all the originals had to give. I took this shot so you all can go "oh chit I forgot to put the spacers back in. Print off this pic, yes you want those plastic inserts, take it back apart its worth the chatter and squeal elimination.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13505/814056C230894527A568B7FAE41F0B6F.jpg[/IMG]
5. Here is proof in the picture, actual after market 2007 Outlander front and rear brake pads.
To date I have replaced all 4 corners with brakes and tires. The front rotors were turned at the 6100 mile mark. I have scuffed flat a set of 245-45-19 Yokohama's and now have Falken 452's on it, same size. I change the oil every 3500/3700 give or take a thousand. I have not had one reason to see the dealer for any issues. I have had 1-4 wheel alignment done. I need to visit for the TSB's but its the dealership, who wants to hang around there? All I'd do was go look at a 2008 with nav and be p.o'd cause it has the updated software.
The 07 Outlander now has 13,700 miles to date. After 36,600 30-0 stops and 90% of the miles at an average of 19mph (official mitsu calculations per info center) I am averaging 12.7 mpg without any of the TSB's done. Jackrabbit starts, paddle shifting up and down about 50% of the time and 4wd lock since I discovered it gives 60/40 rear split without a wimper. I am again forced to address a brake issue. (Imagine that) Any who have followed my posts of past have read of my investigations into finding aftermarket parts. Its a bitch to say the least. I found aftermaket sets for both front and rear, fronts are 2004 Galant and rears are 2004/5 Endeavor. Yes, the Outtie is a parts bin assembly with a new body. Works for me, so far. Here is a few pictures and a parts list. I am assuming if someone knows what a 14mm box end wrench is I can by pass the safety things like jack stands and a floor jack on a concrete surface. (I personally like the thrill of the rig crashing onto floor and sending the tire leaning against it flying into the garage door but kids may be reading this so USE YOUR JACK STANDS) The rears are easier than the fronts and took a total time of 30 minutes, start to finish, clean hands and floor swept.
14mm box end wrench
1- Large flat blade screw driver
1-hammer
1- 10" C clamp (to push the caliper piston back)
rag
Part numbers are O'Reilly's specific but both are made by Wagner.
MX 866 fr.
SD 868 r.
Now for pics
[IMG]local://upfiles/13505/9578AF0DA5B84F33B1DD9ADAC133B045.jpg[/IMG]
1. Yes those are 14mm bolts, when you remove them put them on the rag so they do not get full of dirt and grit, they are greased and crap on them will hinder the float/movement.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13505/54A2CEEBBF0C4CC78A5C0045C7E93C36.jpg[/IMG]
2. After you tap off the caliper this is what you see and what you see is the channel the pad rides in and its full of road grit. See those stainless steel inserts? Put them back in if you pry them out. They keep the slop to a minimum by acting as a sort of spring. Don't ask, just make sure they are in place. Clean it out with the flat blade screw driver, the same one you use to pry out old pads and a shot of brake cleaner to finish.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13505/8C362C746AEB47C38917011427F239D8.jpg[/IMG]
3. This picture tells it all, the parking brake is a separate set of shoes. The rear pads do not set when you pull the parking brake. So, that may enlighten some here who thought pulling the e brake set the rear pads. It doesn't. See the piston extended in the caliper? This is where the C clamp comes in, gently press the piston back into the caliper and DO NOT PINCH the rubber boot that is around the piston. While the rotor is off take a few seconds and wipe the crap out of the shoes, if you have brake cleaner, give it a bath. I did.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13505/E3162DF00AB74F7F9CA4B80196075F78.jpg[/IMG]
4. I used all the originals had to give. I took this shot so you all can go "oh chit I forgot to put the spacers back in. Print off this pic, yes you want those plastic inserts, take it back apart its worth the chatter and squeal elimination.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13505/814056C230894527A568B7FAE41F0B6F.jpg[/IMG]
5. Here is proof in the picture, actual after market 2007 Outlander front and rear brake pads.
To date I have replaced all 4 corners with brakes and tires. The front rotors were turned at the 6100 mile mark. I have scuffed flat a set of 245-45-19 Yokohama's and now have Falken 452's on it, same size. I change the oil every 3500/3700 give or take a thousand. I have not had one reason to see the dealer for any issues. I have had 1-4 wheel alignment done. I need to visit for the TSB's but its the dealership, who wants to hang around there? All I'd do was go look at a 2008 with nav and be p.o'd cause it has the updated software.
#3
RE: Replace Front/Rear Pads
For 13,700 miles I am shocked at your pad wear.... haha. You must be hard as $hit on them. Nice pics though. Floor stands are a good idea though
[sm=exactly.gif]If you dont care about mpg or replacing tires or pads. I agree, leave it in 4WD Lock and go all out!
[sm=exactly.gif]If you dont care about mpg or replacing tires or pads. I agree, leave it in 4WD Lock and go all out!
#4
RE: Replace Front/Rear Pads
with the super crappy mpg your getting your either driving with both feet and dragging the brakes or theres something up with the system.
Even when I drive hard in the twisties I still get at least 20mpg and thats with no freeway driving at all.
I have only had 2 vehicles out of many (used to manage fleets) that had brakes that didnt last at lease 30K. One was a 86 Ford taurus that had known front caliper issues and even that it only took out the one wheel. And a 2001 POS Alero that eats front pads like candy even then they last at least 17,000.
Even when I drive hard in the twisties I still get at least 20mpg and thats with no freeway driving at all.
I have only had 2 vehicles out of many (used to manage fleets) that had brakes that didnt last at lease 30K. One was a 86 Ford taurus that had known front caliper issues and even that it only took out the one wheel. And a 2001 POS Alero that eats front pads like candy even then they last at least 17,000.
#6
RE: Replace Front/Rear Pads
It must be all the power slides and burnouts you're doing bro! That lever in the center is for parking not drifting...ha-ha
Hopefully it's just because you had a bad set of pads. Or you could just bespending so much time in thecity it's wearing them out. Hopefully if anyone else has similar experiences they'll post about them too so we can track any issues.
Hopefully it's just because you had a bad set of pads. Or you could just bespending so much time in thecity it's wearing them out. Hopefully if anyone else has similar experiences they'll post about them too so we can track any issues.
#7
RE: Replace Front/Rear Pads
ORIGINAL: Cuffy
It must be all the power slides and burnouts you're doing bro! That lever in the center is for parking not drifting...ha-ha
Hopefully it's just because you had a bad set of pads. Or you could just bespending so much time in thecity it's wearing them out. Hopefully if anyone else has similar experiences they'll post about them too so we can track any issues.
It must be all the power slides and burnouts you're doing bro! That lever in the center is for parking not drifting...ha-ha
Hopefully it's just because you had a bad set of pads. Or you could just bespending so much time in thecity it's wearing them out. Hopefully if anyone else has similar experiences they'll post about them too so we can track any issues.
#8
RE: Replace Front/Rear Pads
A quick question regarding the brakes of the outtie, a while back before buying the car I read that the brakes are the same as the new Lancers, if thats so, I'm sure theres tons of aftermarket options to choose from in this department? If this is the case check out this site, theres some nice rotors and pads : http://www.roadracemotorsports.com/s...&cPath=1_6
#9
RE: Replace Front/Rear Pads
ORIGINAL: OTO27
A quick question regarding the brakes of the outtie, a while back before buying the car I read that the brakes are the same as the new Lancers, if thats so, I'm sure theres tons of aftermarket options to choose from in this department?
A quick question regarding the brakes of the outtie, a while back before buying the car I read that the brakes are the same as the new Lancers, if thats so, I'm sure theres tons of aftermarket options to choose from in this department?
If you read OzarkXLS's post then you would of seen that the front match an '04 Galant and the rears match '04-05 Endeavor...
#10
RE: Replace Front/Rear Pads
Yes, I read that, thats the whole point of my comment, theres no need to go through all these loopholes and different parts when you can just get a kit made for the 08 Lancer. Also, I'm sure the Lancer gets a lot more attention than the endevour and galant as far as aftermarket goes, so theres a wider selection of parts to choose from if you go that route.
If anyone is interested in upgrading to large brakes heres some nice ones made for the lancer that will fit the 2G Outlanders: http://www.roadracemotorsports.com/s...roducts_id=209
If anyone is interested in upgrading to large brakes heres some nice ones made for the lancer that will fit the 2G Outlanders: http://www.roadracemotorsports.com/s...roducts_id=209