Hello all, I can't seem to find a thread relating to the procedures for replacing these belts. If anyone has done this job, can you please recommend belt brand to use and provide any info on how to do it.
Thanks very much.

 

I did mine about a year ago, I got the Gates Belts from Rock and have been happy with them.

The serpentine was super easy (of course remove the pax front wheel and pop out all the annoying vinyl rivets to removed the wheel well cover, plus get the under front bumper shields off too if you're going to be using a creeper). Maybe I am ham-handed but I need the most components out of the way to get in there. The tensioner takes a 3/8 socket drive, just insert and pull, the belt tension drops and you can slip the belt off.

The PS belt is not so easy, but not super hard, you have to loosen the roller tension and locking bolt to create the slack. I hope the diagram helps (at least we have a tension screw, my friends toyota makes me use a pry bar and I am forever tightening it about 90-120 days). Cheers

PS: I took the reservoir off and cleaned it out really well, as some scum had crusted the inside around the fill mark and I wasn't full with PS Fluid but it appeared that way.

 

Thanks very much!
btw,- would you think the serpentine tensioner needs replacing? A bit noisy and all...

 

mine's still doing ok at 120k miles, but now I'm curious; this weekend, I'll take a closer listen with it running, as I am trying to chase down a rattle underneath that I assume is some loose shielding that rattles with every decent bump

 

Thanks. Fwiw.. if you've never changed them, your anti-sway bar end links could very well be the noise your hearing. Very easy to change and very inexpensive.

 

these guys? #3 I assume

 

Yes. #3.
even OEM and links are only good for 40 to 50,000 miles. They make a loose, jittery ,metallic noise when they go bad. If you grab one of them and can move it at all by hand they're definitely shot. However, it's also entirely possible that they are in need of replacing and you wouldn't be able to move them very easily , as was in my case.

 

What would be the driveability symptoms of these end links being shot? I have some sloppy/darty steering and torque steer I've been trying to track down but everyone who checks out my suspension parts says everything looks fine.

 

I'll be changing them this weekend and post what I find under there. The first time I got an alignment, I noticed a lot more lane drift and some slop, but that's what happens with shims as an adjusting device.

 

I don't think lane drift would be an issue because of end links. Probably caused by a toe adjustment needed in the alignment . The second generation Outlander does not have a camber adjustment per se. When replacing your end links, also replace your anti sway bar bushings to be sure to rid yourself of noise. If that doesn't help look toward other components such as tie rod ends or ball joints as the the next culprits for noise and possible lane drift. You can check both of those easily by properly lifting and securing the front end of the car on jack stands.. if you're not familiar with how to do this ,be sure to check your owner's manual. If you're not comfortable with the procedure, have a mechanic check them for you. Check by attempting to move each wheel by using a 12 and 6 hands on rocking motion for bad ball joints, and a 9 and 3 hands on rocking motion for tie rod ends. Any movement in either is indicative of a bad component.
btw.. sloppy steering could be caused by a number of issues including worn inner tie rods , steering rack issues etc..although from what I've researched are very rare on this vehicle.