Mitsubishi Outlander The new crossover from Mitsubishi, mixing the usefulness of an SUV with the size and convenience of a sport wagon.

Squeal from front passenger side. Bearing or hub?

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  #1  
Old 04-22-2014, 05:18 PM
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Default Squeal from front passenger side. Bearing or hub?

2010 Outlander awd 4 cylinder. 79,997 miles

I have a squeal that is speed specific, and not engine related. It appears to be from the passenger front side. It starts after about 6 to 8 minutes of driving between 35 and 70 mph. It then continues till below 25 mph (exactly) and then goes away. It will come back again as soon as you hit 40 mph hour. I also have noticed that it goes away at speed if turning left like on an on/off ramp for the freeway.

I've had issues with other vehicles in the past doing this, and always been the wheel hub, but it had the bearing as part of the assembly. With the Outlander I know they are two separate parts. And one is considerably more than the other. Am I on the right track, or do I need to look in another direction.

Thanks
 
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:10 AM
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I've yet to experience a bad wheel hub/bearing, but I've always heard them described as a growl.
The bearing/hub is one assembly on the outlander:
More Information for TIMKEN HA590256
 
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Old 04-23-2014, 03:28 PM
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Are you sure about that part? I called the dealership for pricing and was quoted a price for a front hub and bearing separately while the rear is one assembly.

And if not the bearing or hub, any ideas where to start looking?
 
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:49 PM
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2010 Mitsubishi Outlander Parts - Mitsubishi Parts | OEM Mitsubishi Parts | Genuine Mitsubishi Parts

Here's the exploded diagram of your hub/knuckle/wheel area. All you should have is a hub/bearing assembly.
 
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:15 AM
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Thanks. Any idea how much IOC a pain this is? I'm going to dedicate a few hours to it tomorrow or Monday.
 
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:00 AM
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When I replaced a rear output seal on my rear diff, I had to remove the rear hub. Basically you got the wheel, caliper/rotor, speed sensor, then four bolts for the hub. probably would need a breaker bar and a torque wrench. I'd say it'd be a doable driveway job.
 
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:50 AM
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I changed my girlfriends hub assembly in 30 minutes, and that's with a stuck rotor bolt.

If you have to press out/in a new bearing, then you should at the very least have a bench vise. You can get a little press from Harbor Freight real cheap, and it'll get it done too.
 
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Old 04-27-2014, 01:42 PM
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Sebba, these are bolt-on complete assemblies. pretty easy, no pressing required.
 
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Old 04-27-2014, 03:06 PM
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Alright.

Remove the brake caliper and rotor (don't remove the brake line, just get a bungee cord and hang the caliper up somewhere so that it's not pulling on the line)
Remove dust cover
Remove axle nut
Remove any retaining bolts for the assembly
Pull hub assembly towards you.

If the bearing race gets stuck, hit it with penetrating oil and see if you can knock it off. Try not to damage the shaft.

Then simply reverse of the removal, torque your nut properly, and go for a spin!
 
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:43 AM
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Default Sqealing Sound Pass. side front wheel

I have a 07 Outlander with 86k miles and we are experiencing the exact problem the OP has listed. I'm thinking it's a front wheel bearing myself. Shop manual says to torque the axle nut to approx. 120 +/- 5 ft lbs. It also states in the manual to not loosen the axle nut with vehicle weight on the wheel or you will destroy the wheel bearing. May have to come up with a fixture to hold the hub while tightening it, while on a jack stand.
 


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