I need to replace the Inner and Outer Tie Rods(Not sure which brand is better MOOG or ACDELCO?) Also need to replace the Front Struts left and right. And finally replace the rear Shock Absorbers. I am very excited to use Lifetime Warranty parts to protect the investment here is a list of the components does anyone have experience with these Brands or Parts? Also if you have done this work to your Outlander how much did the Mechanic charge you for the labor? I am planning on buying the parts new and bringing them to the mechanic. Thank-You!

Part
Price
Quantity
Total

2008 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER 3.0L V6
Suspension : Strut Mount


A
MONROE 908912 {#MN101372, MR491946} Strut-Mate
Front; w/ 3rd Row Seat






$27.79

$55.58

A
MONROE 905945 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Strut-Mate
Rear; w/ 3rd Row Seat






$8.56

$17.12

Suspension : Strut


B
MONROE 72438 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} OESpectrum
Front Left; w/ 3rd Row Seat






$76.89

$76.89

B
MONROE 72437 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} OESpectrum
Front Right; w/ 3rd Row Seat






$76.89

$76.89

Steering : Tie Rod End


B
ACDELCO 45A2219 {#19255617} Professional
Inner (Only 3 Remaining)


Would you like an Inner Tie Rod Tool to simplify the installation of your new inner tie rod?



$35.79

$71.58

A
MOOG EV800638 {#4422A012} Problem Solver
Inner; MOOG Engineered Steel Composition Enhances Strength


Would you like an Inner Tie Rod Tool to simplify the installation of your new inner tie rod?



$28.89

$57.78

A
MOOG ES800471 {#4422A018} Problem Solver
Outer; Design Allows Ease Of Installation


A Pickle Fork will allow you to easily separate your tie rods.



$17.08

$34.16

B
ACDELCO 45A1306 {#19255610} Professional
Outer


A Pickle Fork will allow you to easily separate your tie rods.



$22.89

$45.78

Suspension : Shock Absorber


B
MONROE 37310 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} OESpectrum
Rear; w/ 3rd Row Seat






$41.99

$83.98

 

I've done the outer tie rods. I bought Moog parts from rockauto. The parts I got were not Moog branded, but did come in Moog packaging. I got a hold of Rockauto and they said sometimes Moog will put other brands in their packaging and will honor lifetime warranty.

inspect your lower control arm bushings too. Had one fail on me...just one more thing to look at.

 

Thank you ccernst, how have the Moog components performed so far? Do you think the Moog are better quality than Acdelco?

 

so far so good....only been a year. I did my lower arms at the same time...also Moog.

 

My mechanic says there is too much "play" in my front drivers side wheel he's able to wiggle it all around even when fully tightened could that be a ball joint/control arm issue?

Is this a good kit?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6385137&cc=1442157&jnid=337&jpid=0

 

it would be possible. lower control arm keeps the bottom portion of the wheel in position, so a bad/missing bushing would move the entire assembly around. That kit is essentially what I put in, but I did not do inner tie rods. Had those done for me previously at a shop.

Take a look at the control arms in the kit. Essentially what happened to mine was the far left bushing seperated from the arm. This allowed the arm to slip down a bit and contact the frame of the car. Still safe, but when making a hard turn or hitting a bump just right, would make a bone jarring creak/clunk. It was still safe as the control arm forms a ring around the bolt.

Also, take a closer look at the tie rod end in that kit. Look closely at the cap....says "Central"...not "Moog"

 

Could a bad wheel bearing be the cause of all the play and wobbling in the front wheels? How long do wheel bearings last? It it a smart move to replace the entire Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly or just do the wheel bearing itself?

 

yeah, a wheel bearing going out can be cause for wobble. Like lifetime fluid in a tranny, it lasts all the way till it dies! Likely just the bearing needs to be changed out. I'm at 195k miles...bearings still doing fine. please don't jinx me!

 

Do you think it's necessary to replace the hub assembly as well or just replace the wheel bearing should be OK keeping the original hub?

 

I think as long as the bearing inner race wasn't spinning on the hub, you only need to do the bearing.