FYI, Just replaced both front swaybar links. Was hearing some knocking around in the front when going slow through parking lots and such. This vehicle uses a bar with two ball joints on either end, one facing inward and one facing outward. What makes this difficult is that you cannot use a ratchet/impact to remove the nut since the stud has a 5mm allen socket to keep the stud from rotating.

So the fastest method is to do the following:
- use a sawzall (reciprocating saw) to cut the stud on the lower joint right up against the swaybar. There is enough room for this. I had the vehicle up on jack stands, wheels off.
- if you did not shave close enough to the bar, use an angle grinder or dremel to grind away part of the stud. I ended up using a ratchet w/ 14mm short socket to grab the nut and lever the remains out of the bar. For both sides, I burned up three metal blades.
- For the top, the stud faces you, so a sawzall will not fit. Best method here is to just drill the stud out. I think I used a 9/32 drill bit to get it one and done. When you get close, use a hammer to knock the nut off the stud.
- (optional) I had a can of truck bed liner in a can. Sprayed that on any nicks to the swaybar and control arm that may occur. Spray the liner on before you put the new links on...you don't want to get that stuff on the threads.


I used Moog replacement and of the 4 studs, two of them required me to use an allen wrench. Once I was ready with the drill and sawzall, replacing the links only took 15 min. I fiddled around with the first one for over an hour trying to get the nut off with a dinky little allen wrench. Also, cut the bottom joint first. If you don't, then the bar is only held in place by the other side, so it really bounces around and does not cut well.

 

In California cars I have always zipped off with impact wrench after some penetrating oil, even though there is a allen stud.

 

I tried with a crappy electric impact.....it just spun.