Timing Belt and Transmission related queries
#1
Timing Belt and Transmission related queries
Hi Guys,
Timing Belt: My Outie is a 2007 GLS model with V6 and currently have a mileage of 70,000km. I was thinking if its already due for a timing belt replacement until I saw this old post -https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mitsubishi-outlander-10/timing-belt-2nd-gen-outlanders-34117/ - where the guys are saying it shouldn't be due until 105kmiles (~160kKM), emission regulations notwithstanding. So I then brought my car to a Mitsubishi service center to validate what they think and I was told that in our tropical country, and considering our really bad traffic conditions (lots of stop and go) and driving habits, Mitsubishi Japan recommends the belt to be replaced at a max of 80,000km mileage. Is this all business or do they actually have a point with their claim?
Transmission: About 2 years ago, after driving on flat roads for about 5hrs, we went through inclined roads going to a city atop a mountain. I remember driving aggressively (on 4WD Auto) using manual shifting (paddle), then after about 20mins of driving like this through these inclined zigzag roads, the manual shifter automatically went to "D" and was stuck there. I stopped the car, restarted it several times to get it back to manual mode, but it just wouldn't. Then after reaching the city, driving on flat roads for around 10mins, the manual shift was selectable again. A year after (last December), I drove through this same mountain roads again, but this time driving slowly and at lower engine revs, the exact same thing happened again. Anyone have any idea what's causing this? Is it the road elevation? Sudden change in ambient temp (from ~35C to ~18C)? Transmission fluid related (which I am not sure if previous owner had replaced before but I checked and it looks redish still)?
I hope someone can enlighten me on these 2 matters. Appreciate the feedback
Timing Belt: My Outie is a 2007 GLS model with V6 and currently have a mileage of 70,000km. I was thinking if its already due for a timing belt replacement until I saw this old post -https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mitsubishi-outlander-10/timing-belt-2nd-gen-outlanders-34117/ - where the guys are saying it shouldn't be due until 105kmiles (~160kKM), emission regulations notwithstanding. So I then brought my car to a Mitsubishi service center to validate what they think and I was told that in our tropical country, and considering our really bad traffic conditions (lots of stop and go) and driving habits, Mitsubishi Japan recommends the belt to be replaced at a max of 80,000km mileage. Is this all business or do they actually have a point with their claim?
Transmission: About 2 years ago, after driving on flat roads for about 5hrs, we went through inclined roads going to a city atop a mountain. I remember driving aggressively (on 4WD Auto) using manual shifting (paddle), then after about 20mins of driving like this through these inclined zigzag roads, the manual shifter automatically went to "D" and was stuck there. I stopped the car, restarted it several times to get it back to manual mode, but it just wouldn't. Then after reaching the city, driving on flat roads for around 10mins, the manual shift was selectable again. A year after (last December), I drove through this same mountain roads again, but this time driving slowly and at lower engine revs, the exact same thing happened again. Anyone have any idea what's causing this? Is it the road elevation? Sudden change in ambient temp (from ~35C to ~18C)? Transmission fluid related (which I am not sure if previous owner had replaced before but I checked and it looks redish still)?
I hope someone can enlighten me on these 2 matters. Appreciate the feedback
#2
In Canada, to maintain the warranty on powertrain parts that would be damaged by a timing belt failure in an interference engine, the timing belt must be replaced every 7 years or 160,000 km, whichever comes first.
If it's any consolation, when my wife and I were looking for a used Outlander, we saw several Os that were close to 160,000 km that had not had their original timing belts replaced and were still operating just fine.
If it's any consolation, when my wife and I were looking for a used Outlander, we saw several Os that were close to 160,000 km that had not had their original timing belts replaced and were still operating just fine.
#4
a) do it. Belt=200$, install is half a day.
Belt failure = new engine.
a.1) stop driving badly in ****ty traffic.
b) thats your car telling you that you are a poor driver.
If you want to abuse some machinery, stick to photocopiers and lawnmowers. Theyre less expensive and cant defend themselves.
Belt failure = new engine.
a.1) stop driving badly in ****ty traffic.
b) thats your car telling you that you are a poor driver.
If you want to abuse some machinery, stick to photocopiers and lawnmowers. Theyre less expensive and cant defend themselves.
#6
Thanks for the inputs guys. Getting a hint that I should replace the belt, though is really thinking about it as it would cost me more than US$500 to get it replaced here and my wife rarely use the car (registered 2kKM for the last two years).
I hope to clarify my driving by the way as I think I drive ok, if not really good and what I meant with driving aggressively was doing some overtaking here and there to pass slower cars on the inclined roads. I did mentioned I drove like a grandma on our last drive and still encountered the tranny getting stucked at D. Just had to use manual shifting on those roads as some parts have u turns with very steep entries and had to keep the engine revs above 2kRPM to keep the power up. Hope someone can provide more feedback about this shifter concern.
I hope to clarify my driving by the way as I think I drive ok, if not really good and what I meant with driving aggressively was doing some overtaking here and there to pass slower cars on the inclined roads. I did mentioned I drove like a grandma on our last drive and still encountered the tranny getting stucked at D. Just had to use manual shifting on those roads as some parts have u turns with very steep entries and had to keep the engine revs above 2kRPM to keep the power up. Hope someone can provide more feedback about this shifter concern.
#7
On '07-'09, those are non-interference engines...so broken belt does not mean blown engine. Inspection of the belt is as easy as removing one of the plastic covers and taking a peek. I did mine at 100k miles and the belt was still in good shape. it did have *some* wear, but not much. If you do have the timing belt done, get the accessory belts changed too....they have to be removed anyway.
Edit: in '10 they removed the divots in the pistons to decrease combustion chamber volume...making '10 and up interference engines. That's also why there is a horsepower change from '09 to '10.
Edit: in '10 they removed the divots in the pistons to decrease combustion chamber volume...making '10 and up interference engines. That's also why there is a horsepower change from '09 to '10.
#8
my guess is your trans is overheating and going into "dont hurt me" mode.
by the sounds of it, you're driving too fast and reving the sh*t out of it, or too fast with low revs, or too slow with low revs.
by the sounds of it, you're driving too fast and reving the sh*t out of it, or too fast with low revs, or too slow with low revs.
#9
On '07-'09, those are non-interference engines...so broken belt does not mean blown engine. Inspection of the belt is as easy as removing one of the plastic covers and taking a peek. I did mine at 100k miles and the belt was still in good shape. it did have *some* wear, but not much. If you do have the timing belt done, get the accessory belts changed too....they have to be removed anyway.
Edit: in '10 they removed the divots in the pistons to decrease combustion chamber volume...making '10 and up interference engines. That's also why there is a horsepower change from '09 to '10.
Edit: in '10 they removed the divots in the pistons to decrease combustion chamber volume...making '10 and up interference engines. That's also why there is a horsepower change from '09 to '10.
#10
Could an older ATF aggravated it? Would an overheated tranny take some permanent damage? Was thinking before more on electronics, though the overheating indeed is a possible idea.
Have plans to drive for a 1000km trip this summer. Or might as well just stick to 2WD and D Appreciate the feedback!