I just put a deposit on a new travel trailer (Jayco Jay Flight Swift SLX 184BH) that had a dry weight of 2,960 pounds and a gross weight of 3,500 pounds and a hitch weight of 270 pounds.

I had a tent trailer I towed for the last two years that weighed 2,200 pounds loaded and it didn't have trailer brakes. Because it didn't have trailer brakes I bought the factory hitch and 4 pin harness and the set up worked very well (but the back did sag with the 210 hitch weight).

I knew that I would have to get a 7 pin connector and brake controller for the new trailer and I would also need a weight equalizer hitch to keep my front wheels on the ground. The 7 pin connector was an easy one, the guys at my local truck & trailer shop charged me $300 and did a beautiful install job. It looks as factory as it could look.

The weight distribution hitch was a different story. If you do research on the different class hitches a class 2 has a 1" square receiver and a class 3 has a 2" square receiver. Seems simple right? Wrong! Mitsubishi has a special talent for confusing people.

The sticker on the hitch says it is a Class 2 with a towing capacity of 3,500 and a tongue weight of 350. It goes on to say that you cannot use a load equalization hitch but instead use a different kind of supplemental leveling device (like air bags I assume). It directs you the owner's manual for further details. When I looked in the manual, the first thing it said was to use a good quality load equalization hitch!!!

The two pieces of literature from Mitsubishi directly contradicted each other. I asked my Mitsubishi service department to explain the contradiction and tell me if I wasted $600 on the factory hitch just to have to go buy a A/M $300 class 3. They were surprised but suggested Mitsubishi under states the hitch capacity so people won't tow the 4,000 pounds a class 3 is rated for. They recommended I show the hitch to the shop installing my brake controller to inspect it and tell me if it is a class 2 or 3.

One of the people there referred to the hitch as a "class 2 upgrade" and said the "Jap Crap" has been using it for years so they could attach bike racks but they are not meant for towing. I wanted to punch him but instead showed him my manual and that I am good to tow 3,500 pounds they took a closer look and said it looks as solid as any class 3. They said I should be ok with the factory hitch. I was glad I didn't have to spend any extra money.

I pick the trailer up in three weeks in New Hampshire and driving it back to Nova Scotia (1,100km) and I will come back and let everyone know how well it tows at max capacity. I will also get some pics up of the awesome install on the brake control and 7 pin.

 

First of all, I really like the layout of the jayco. Efficient.

A couple of things to consider:

The "dry" weight of your trailer doesn't include water, propane, battery or any of your items inside. You will quickly achieve the 3500lbs with that in there. Not really a problem, but something to be aware of. The propane and battery will be sitting on the tongue and add about 80lbs for two full 20lb propane bottles and 50lbs for the battery to the tongue weight of the trailer. This puts the tongue weight closer to 400lbs. Be ready for this.

The outlander's engine and transmission, in my opinion, are more than up to the task of towing that trailer. Sadly, the rear suspension is not. I would get air bags for the rear springs, even with a WDH (get to that in a minute). The outlander also has a relatively short wheelbase so sway can become an issue.

You can't even consider towing that without using the trailer brakes and a good controller. I would suggest a tekonsha prodigy or P3. They work great and not pricey. Please avoid cheap "time delay" controllers as they are ****.

If you have a 1 1/4", class two hitch, you need to get rid of it. While in specification it can tow 3500/350, your tongue weight will be well over its capabilities, and you can NOT run a WDH system with a class 2. Sorry.

The only hitch I would even consider towing that trailer with would be a curt 13581:

http://www.curthitchdepot.com/hitche...-hitch-p-26195

If your current one doesn't attach with 3 bolts on each side to the frame, plus through the towing eye, you have a good chance of tearing out bolts when you attach a weight distributing system. Lots of leverage forces at play there.

A decent WDH system is also required to keep things stable. I would recommend something like this:

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66069.html

I haven't tried towing my current trailer with the outlander, but i do tow it with our 2005 Sienna, so I've got a bit of experience with large(compared to tow vehicle) trailers.

 

The Hitch I have is a 2" square receiver and uses 8 bolts to attach it to the sub frame.

I had a Curt brake controller installed and a Eaz Lift 550 pound equalizer hitch so I am confident I have a good set up for towing.

With the Eaz Lift hitch I will have less tongue weight than I had with my old tent trailer (which did have 2 X 20 pound tanks). My Outlander is a 7 passenger which is rated for an extra 200 pounds over the 5 passenger so it doesn't sag quite as bad.

My set up is complete and I am picking the trailer up on the 31st of the month. No turning back now.

Thanks for the advice. I can see from your picture you have been where I am.

 

sounds like all you need is to adjust the WDH to match the trailer when you get there and you're off. The giant teepee is actually in Medicine Hat, Alberta. That is where we bought the funfinder last year. I have visited Halifax though and loved the place. Spent 2 weeks working just across the Canso causeway in Port Hawkesbury. Did a lovely tour around and had a quick peek in at the Glenora Distillery. Lots of great memories.

 

LOL, I meant you have had to find the right set up for a small tv and full size tt. I have actually been to Medicine Hat and saw the giant TP. I was on my way to BC. It really is impressive.

 

The van actually makes a great tow vehicle. Long wheelbase and low to the ground. With airbags and the WDH keeping things in check, I can tow that 4000lb trailer through the Rockies with ease. The engine and transmission are tough.

 

Well, we got our trailer and pulled it !

The outlander pulled great, could do 90-100 on the hwy, side roads were no problem. I put it in the steeling wheel paddle shift mode, used 3 for climbing hills and 4 for side roads crusing, crused the hwy in 5, never used 6. Used only 2WD.

See pics of setup

 

Is that a 17Z? That is the same my brother is getting and he has a '11 Outlander XLS. The new ones have 10 more HP and 11 pound feet more torque which should help with the highway speed.

Do you have air bags?

 

Yes that is a X17Z - it's quite nice, the kids just loved it. I did leave the tent ends open as they had gotten wet although I think in the future if they are dry I'll close them up to protect from sun, wind, bugs, etc...

I'm sure the extra power on the '11 XLS will help with top speed although I don't think I'd want to go any fast than 100kph with the trailer lol...

 

I picked my new Jayco 184BH up today and towed it from Newport NH to Island Falls NE, about 700km. I did it in 30 degree celsius heat at 100kph the whole way. The Outlander only had two short rests while I got gas. I got 18 L/100km which is not what I hoped for but I wasn't surprised. I got 13.5 when I towed my tent trailer. That limited me to about 320 km per tank but thats usually as far as I go one way. The Outlander had plenty of power to keep the speed even on the long climes.

If any one else has an Outlander and wants to tow you do have real options.