Tranny fluid change - my way
#1
Tranny fluid change - my way
Disclaimer: I understand this only removed half of the old fluid. I will do a follow up procedure soon to get more old fluid out.
Last time I had the ATF change was at 30-something thousand miles, done by my local dealer.
I was going on a trip from South Florida to Rhode Island and didn't have time to stop by the dealer. So I bought 5 quarts of Diaqueen J2.
I also have a Mityvac fluid extractor, so I figured I would use it instead of undoing the drain bolt - less mess this way.
I ended pumping out close to 5 quarts of the old fluid... that was a suprise.
But anyway - I put 5 quarts of new J2 in. Then measured (on flat surface with engine running). Too much. Which means that the dealer put too much in at the previous change. So I pumped some out until all was good on the dipstick.
P.S. Also changed oil before hitting the road.
Last time I had the ATF change was at 30-something thousand miles, done by my local dealer.
I was going on a trip from South Florida to Rhode Island and didn't have time to stop by the dealer. So I bought 5 quarts of Diaqueen J2.
I also have a Mityvac fluid extractor, so I figured I would use it instead of undoing the drain bolt - less mess this way.
I ended pumping out close to 5 quarts of the old fluid... that was a suprise.
But anyway - I put 5 quarts of new J2 in. Then measured (on flat surface with engine running). Too much. Which means that the dealer put too much in at the previous change. So I pumped some out until all was good on the dipstick.
P.S. Also changed oil before hitting the road.
#3
Disclaimer: I understand this only removed half of the old fluid. I will do a follow up procedure soon to get more old fluid out.
Last time I had the ATF change was at 30-something thousand miles, done by my local dealer.
I was going on a trip from South Florida to Rhode Island and didn't have time to stop by the dealer. So I bought 5 quarts of Diaqueen J2.
I also have a Mityvac fluid extractor, so I figured I would use it instead of undoing the drain bolt - less mess this way.
I ended pumping out close to 5 quarts of the old fluid... that was a suprise.
But anyway - I put 5 quarts of new J2 in. Then measured (on flat surface with engine running). Too much. Which means that the dealer put too much in at the previous change. So I pumped some out until all was good on the dipstick.
P.S. Also changed oil before hitting the road.
Last time I had the ATF change was at 30-something thousand miles, done by my local dealer.
I was going on a trip from South Florida to Rhode Island and didn't have time to stop by the dealer. So I bought 5 quarts of Diaqueen J2.
I also have a Mityvac fluid extractor, so I figured I would use it instead of undoing the drain bolt - less mess this way.
I ended pumping out close to 5 quarts of the old fluid... that was a suprise.
But anyway - I put 5 quarts of new J2 in. Then measured (on flat surface with engine running). Too much. Which means that the dealer put too much in at the previous change. So I pumped some out until all was good on the dipstick.
P.S. Also changed oil before hitting the road.
Brian
#8
You don't need any suction tool to change the power steering fluid.
Stick the suction line into a fresh quart of fluid, and the return line into an old milk jug. Crank the car over with the MPI fuse pulled and get 'er done.
Stick the suction line into a fresh quart of fluid, and the return line into an old milk jug. Crank the car over with the MPI fuse pulled and get 'er done.
#10
Screw when Mitsubishi says to change it. When it looks brown and smells like crap, change it.
Either yank the MPI or the EFI (multi point injection and electronic fuel injection) this will prevent the car from starting while you crank over the engine and get the fluid circulating.
Turn the wheel all the way left then all the way right when you're cranking. Then stop when the fluid coming out of the return looks like the fluid going in. Put the hoses back on correctly, fill the reservoir, replace the fuse, start the car, and turn the steering wheel all the way to both sides to bleed the system of any air. Do this a couple times.
Either yank the MPI or the EFI (multi point injection and electronic fuel injection) this will prevent the car from starting while you crank over the engine and get the fluid circulating.
Turn the wheel all the way left then all the way right when you're cranking. Then stop when the fluid coming out of the return looks like the fluid going in. Put the hoses back on correctly, fill the reservoir, replace the fuse, start the car, and turn the steering wheel all the way to both sides to bleed the system of any air. Do this a couple times.