Voltage problems
#12
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Hate to disagree, but how is AC a large ELECTRICAL draw? The only electrical part of that is to engage the compressor clutch and maybe run a secondary radiator fan. I can agree that it is a huge MECHANICAL draw and uses more fuel, but the energy for the AC comes from the belt running the compressor and only a minor amount of electrical energy is required.
#13
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Well, I have to disagree with you. What do you do for a living? I happen to be an ASE and Mitsubishi master tech, specializing in electical and drivability diagnosis. In other words, I fix cars for a living. Between the clutch, cooling an blower fans, I have seen AC systems draw upword of 20 amps. Tha's more then most standard headlight systems. Listen, I don't take offense to being questioned, I have alot of customers who "know" how to fix their cars, and want to tell me how to do my job. Funny thing is, they are pying me to do it because in reality, they can't. I suggest that you don't tell someone who knows of what he speaks that he is wrong, especially when you clearly don't of what you speak.
#14
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Don't get all stressed, we are all diagnosing long distance here and trying to help him out.
Electronic Engineering Technologist, since you care. He complains that this happens while he's driving(engine well above idle). Have you looked at the test done by rdenis in the second post of this thread. With highbeams on, AC on full and radio on he still sees 13.9volts minimum at idle. something is wrong with the original poster's system.
If you have access to the info, please post a chart or graph showing the output of the alternator vs. pully rpm. We can figure out what it can produce at idle by knowing differences between crank pully size and alt. pully size, which you should have access to.
Electronic Engineering Technologist, since you care. He complains that this happens while he's driving(engine well above idle). Have you looked at the test done by rdenis in the second post of this thread. With highbeams on, AC on full and radio on he still sees 13.9volts minimum at idle. something is wrong with the original poster's system.
If you have access to the info, please post a chart or graph showing the output of the alternator vs. pully rpm. We can figure out what it can produce at idle by knowing differences between crank pully size and alt. pully size, which you should have access to.
ORIGINAL: evoracer
Well, I have to disagree with you. What do you do for a living? I happen to be an ASE and Mitsubishi master tech, specializing in electical and drivability diagnosis. In other words, I fix cars for a living. Between the clutch, cooling an blower fans, I have seen AC systems draw upword of 20 amps. Tha's more then most standard headlight systems. Listen, I don't take offense to being questioned, I have alot of customers who "know" how to fix their cars, and want to tell me how to do my job. Funny thing is, they are pying me to do it because in reality, they can't. I suggest that you don't tell someone who knows of what he speaks that he is wrong, especially when you clearly don't of what you speak.
Well, I have to disagree with you. What do you do for a living? I happen to be an ASE and Mitsubishi master tech, specializing in electical and drivability diagnosis. In other words, I fix cars for a living. Between the clutch, cooling an blower fans, I have seen AC systems draw upword of 20 amps. Tha's more then most standard headlight systems. Listen, I don't take offense to being questioned, I have alot of customers who "know" how to fix their cars, and want to tell me how to do my job. Funny thing is, they are pying me to do it because in reality, they can't. I suggest that you don't tell someone who knows of what he speaks that he is wrong, especially when you clearly don't of what you speak.
#15
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Bro, in my first post on this thread I stated that I beleive it was a charging system problem. I still stand behind that.
EDIT: Don't take offense to my previous post. It was 12:30 in the morning and I just got home from moving, a 12 hour drive in a moving truck. I was too wired to sleep, but I guess a little too agitated to post.Should have been a little calmer I guess. Kinda like drinking and dialing, postingshouldn't be done when tired and irritable. I am just trying to help. Sorry for jumping down your throat.
EDIT: Don't take offense to my previous post. It was 12:30 in the morning and I just got home from moving, a 12 hour drive in a moving truck. I was too wired to sleep, but I guess a little too agitated to post.Should have been a little calmer I guess. Kinda like drinking and dialing, postingshouldn't be done when tired and irritable. I am just trying to help. Sorry for jumping down your throat.
#18
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I happen to be a mitsu tech of 16 years, fully ASE (with L1) certified, and a "master elite" (both of which mean nothing, as they are pathetically easy to accomplish).
and IM saying its totally normal to suffer a half to volt drop when the ac is on, due to the massive amperage use. The cooling fans alone require 20 amps + to operate.
feel free to check it on every outlander you have on your lot.
and IM saying its totally normal to suffer a half to volt drop when the ac is on, due to the massive amperage use. The cooling fans alone require 20 amps + to operate.
feel free to check it on every outlander you have on your lot.
#20
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Regardless of vehicle and operating conditions, my rule of thumb is toget worried when I see voltage drops consistently below say 13.3 to 13.5 volts - tells me either something is not right with the charging system orI've got way too damn much stuff drawing off the electrical system.
If my system was consistently giving me readings below 13 volts I'd be worried.
The readings I posted earlier on the Outie are what I would consider to be normal over the range.
If my system was consistently giving me readings below 13 volts I'd be worried.
The readings I posted earlier on the Outie are what I would consider to be normal over the range.