When to switch to synthetic?
Is it ever too soon to switch to synthetic? I was wondering if I should just go for it even thoughI only have 700 miles on it. I'm taking my car in to the dealer to get the oil replaced since they put in 10w30 on it and I think it should be 5w20 like it says on the book, so if its not too soon I woul rather just put Mobil1 synthetic on there instead of the dealer crap.
its never too soon to switch to synthetic, but be aware that it offers no benefits for 99 percent of the people that use it.
The only real benefits come from extreem temps, either cold (30 below) or ultra high (300+ degrees, which your engine will never hit).
otherwise, its just a waste of money. you CANNOT extend oil change intervals when using synthetic, contrary to popular belief.
The only real benefits come from extreem temps, either cold (30 below) or ultra high (300+ degrees, which your engine will never hit).
otherwise, its just a waste of money. you CANNOT extend oil change intervals when using synthetic, contrary to popular belief.
Really???
I don't mean to second dought you, but everyone including familly members tell me that I should always use synthetic,why not use something man made that was designed specifically for cars? Theres sure to be an advantage in the long run.
I don't mean to second dought you, but everyone including familly members tell me that I should always use synthetic,why not use something man made that was designed specifically for cars? Theres sure to be an advantage in the long run.
well, everyone must make their own choices, but some have forgotten the primary advantage of synthetic's
far superior resistance to viscosity breakdown, which prevents the production of sludge-something i, and i'm sure some others in the forum, would regard as worth the price difference, since that, much more than using a viscosity a little higher than the mfg's minimum, will rob the engine of its efficiency....well, maybe when you only buy wal-mart full synthetic for about $2.75 per quart. anyway, with all this talk of using only 20 weight oil; i wouldn't be so quick to use that low a viscosity unless it was a full synthetic....somehow, i just can't see running at a steady 3,000 to 3,500 rpm's on the highway in july or august in 100 degree-plus heat for a few hours every day, let alone a cross-country trip, with only a 20 weight conventional oil....or maybe i'm just too old and, still, like jethro tull, living in the past....
far superior resistance to viscosity breakdown, which prevents the production of sludge-something i, and i'm sure some others in the forum, would regard as worth the price difference, since that, much more than using a viscosity a little higher than the mfg's minimum, will rob the engine of its efficiency....well, maybe when you only buy wal-mart full synthetic for about $2.75 per quart. anyway, with all this talk of using only 20 weight oil; i wouldn't be so quick to use that low a viscosity unless it was a full synthetic....somehow, i just can't see running at a steady 3,000 to 3,500 rpm's on the highway in july or august in 100 degree-plus heat for a few hours every day, let alone a cross-country trip, with only a 20 weight conventional oil....or maybe i'm just too old and, still, like jethro tull, living in the past....
you CANNOT extend oil change intervals when using synthetic, contrary to popular belief.
One quick question, as you can tell I'm not a gear head type of guy.lol, so the 5 in the 20 means how the oil is gona flow when the engine is hot right? or is it the other way around?
the other way-round; 5w means 5 weight all weather, meaning the oil will flow like a thin 5 wgt in freezing weather. the 20 means said oil will maintain its integrity like a thicker straight 20 weight oil at normal engine operating temperatures. so, a 5w-20 and a 5w-30 have exactly the same low-temperature flow characteristics, they're just different at high temperatures, where the higher weight oil is less susceptible
to viscosity breakdown.
to viscosity breakdown.


