I think those with the pivot are not strong enough reviews are so not great.

The 2011 FSM does have a chart that list MB990767-01 (the OTC flat style) supercedes MB990767 (scissor style)

You really just need a piece of angle steel, drill two holes where you want to intersect the pulley, with two long enough bolt 3", 4 nuts. It would cost under $20. Cut out a bit to clear the pulley bolt if needed.

I would use the longer bolt highest grade you can find, where it doesn't have threads near the hex head, using the smooth area without threads to engage the pulley holes.

Sounds great. I'd be weighing the pros and cons of using thicker flat bar versus angle iron (which, let's face it, is going to lessen the space between the tool and the body of the vehicle and maybe inhibit to some extent the action of the impact gun or socket and breaker bar, etc.).

Please post photos of your new tool and do tell how it performs.

BTW, when do you plan on doing this job? (I'm waiting for the timing idler pulley to arrive before I start anything.)

I just now noticed that the newer Mitsubishi OEM pulley holder is the one used in Mitsubishi's official 6B31 timing belt removal/installation video a number of years ago. So I guess that that tool is the one that Mit technicians now use to hold that pulley. Luckily it is nowhere near as expensive as the original tool, IF you can actually locate one. I'd like to know exactly why Mit. changed the design.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/mitsubi...1e015b2d9d.jpg

The tools are not made by Mitsubishi they are mostly made by OTC, Miller, and they don't only fit Mitsubishi.

The MB990767-01 tool should be a useful one around the garage, because it is also used to hold differential flange, hubs, etc. It should also hold cam gear to get that cam bolt off.

I will have to wait a few more months to do mine when the weather cools down. (if I don't procrastinate past winter). Do share pictures if you do yours before then.

I hope to have the job done by mid-July.

I've just written to Bosch Automotive, the seller of the part, for a price, availability and shipping cost. I also asked if that tool is the right one for a 2010. I'll report what I'm told.

Forgot to include recommendation the following socket. Whether you are using air tool or hand this is still good to have.

Lisle 77110 22mm Harmonic Balancer Socket

I already have a decent set of deep impact sockets that I bought 16 years ago to do a complete timing belt + job on our 1992 Honda Accord automatic.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ge2/#post24167

To do that job I bought a DeWalt 1/2"-drive, corded impact wrench. If I remember right, it took about 3 minutes of the big DeWalt continuously hammering on the pulley bolt to finally break it free. I don't believe that I would have been able to do that with any length of breaker bar + pipe because I would have had to somehow prevent the pulley from rotating by applying the same opposing force. I hope the heck that I can use the big DeWalt on the Outlander's pulley bolt. That will make preventing the crank pulley from turning much easier.

Sounds like you're on the right track, Outlaander. I just finished this job on my 2013 and ended up having to rent a Milwaukee impact wrench to get the crank bolt loose. I couldn't break it loose with a 4 foot pry bar (I bent the heck out of my homemade pulley holder), but the impact wrench broke it free in about 3 seconds. This was the most annoying part of the job for me, but only because I don't have a powerful impact wrench at home. You'll definitely need a pulley holder of some kind and probably a long breaker bar/pipe to torque the crank bolt when re-installing. I see you're in Alberta - if you're in Calgary you're welcome to borrow my homemade version. It's not a bit bent, but still works.

You asked above about bleeding the tensioner - one thing I saw mentioned somewhere (I think in the 'timing belt training video' here: ) is that after bleeding and pinning the tensioner, you shouldn't rotate the tensioner very far from vertical. Presumably your tensioner is sitting in a box on its side, so you may want to re-bleed. Not sure how critical this is though. I was able to compress it using a 12" C-clamp on my bench.

Can confirm using the crank bolt to rotate the crank works just fine (it even tightened enough that I was able to rotate counterclockwise a few degrees when I overshot TDC).

I used this double zip tie method to install the stretch belt and it worked like a charm:

Hi Bill, did you rotate the crank counter clockwise 1/4 turn like the video says (after releasing tensioner)

I sure did. Maybe not a full quarter turn, but close. No issues.