Does anyone own the XTOOL D7 OBD2 diagnostic scanner and, if so, how do you think it works with your Outlander? i'm considering buying one and would like to hear as much user experience as possible before I pay for one. (For example, does it turn on and off the TPMS alarm for wheels that have and don't have TPMS sensors in them.)

Thanks.

 

I have the Autel MK808, so far iv used it to regen and turn off an oil light that many scan tool will fail to turn off and your forced to take it to the dealer to reset. Iv also tested the key coding which it failed at but other more powerful scan tools succeeded in coding key to start engine but failed to code key to remotely open the doors. You will find these scan tools have certain functions available to communicate with your car in a bidirectional manor but sometimes will fail to communicate with a particular aspect of your vehicle.

When I get time I will have a look and see if it has TPMS.

My advice to you is get an Autel as they have special functions, active tests, and an impressive amount of mitsubishi updates.

Key here is buy direct from Autel or the scan tool company you chose, to avoid disappointment upon discovering it's a fake as you will get no updates or customer support.

 

I already have a Christmas-gift Autel for which my daughter paid close to $175. In short, it is inadequate.

I'd like to hear from Outlander owners who own the XTOOL D7, because that is the one and only one I'm interested in buying.

 

Probably you should ask this question in another forum dedicated specifically to XTOOL products.

My advice for Mitsubishi cars is to use tools which Mitsu workshop themselves are using for your particular car model.
7 years ago when my Outlander's warranty ended up, I bought MUT-III (chinese copy) and corresponding software (yeah, a bit of work to install it on Windows 7). All together it was $350 and I never ever regret that because with MUT-III you can:
- calibrate fuel quantity injection
- monitor/record any parameter for fault searching/resolving
- reset "hard error codes" (which impossible to reset with 3rd party tools) such as DPF relevant etc
- customize disable/enable many car settings in various modules (ETACS, A/C, stereo, etc)
- reset or completely disable service reminder
- update ECU and other units firmware (FW files need to be downloaded/purchased separately)
...

 

In early 2013 we bought our 2010 Outlander XLS and in late 2013 I bought a General Dynamics Go Book VR2 laptop that had Win Vista on it and installed the software mentioned in the following thread.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...ization-40223/

In short, the combination worked just fine until a few weeks ago when the laptop died and I could not revive it. Running that software was the one and only thing that that laptop ever did. I had it plugged in, not powered on, constantly, doing nothing for probably 99.999% of the time since 2013, yet it still died. Not a big surprise, but mere age apparently took its toll.

So now I have a choice. I can buy another, probably older, laptop and go through all the hassle that it takes to install the software and once again risk having both once again fail, or investigate other options that may work almost as well.

My wife and I do not need or want a laptop and I'm not going to drag an old desktop and monitor into our garage, set it up, etc.

Back in 2013, the OEM Mit scanner was incredibly expensive. But times have defnintely changed when it comes to the capabilities of OBD2 scanners in the past 10 years. According to XTOOL, the XTOOL D7 supposedly does much of what I wanted the clone software to do; it's a fraction of the cost of the OEM scanner; it's much easier to connect and get up and running; it isn't going to kill anything if the wrong button is clicked at the wrong moment; and it most likely isn't going to fail for many years --- hopefully, until the day I die.

This is why I started this thread. I'm hoping that other Outlander owners are using the D7 and I'd like to hear what they have to say about it. I think that this forum is actually the best place to make that request and get honest opinions that are not tainted by, how to put it, financial interest.

 

I agree with your points! It is good to ask here.

PS: You made me curious about this tool too, so I went to this site, where one can check whether the car model is supported or not. To my surprise, Xtool D7 (as well as D8 and D9) supports only Mitsubishi Pajero (2007-2008). I recommend you to contact Xtool manufacturer and talk to them, maybe Outlander is "unofficially" supported for the functions you need. Unfortunately, the obd2 tools market is very polarized and proprietary, if tool supports all models and all/major features on that car model then it will be a very _expensive_ tool because tool manufacturer shall pay licenses and sometimes royalties to automakers. Let us know how it will go, maybe you will be the 1st owner who successfully tried xtool on Outlander

 

I contacted XTOOL some time ago. Here's their reply.
________________

Thanks for your reply!

2010 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS VIN JXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

I understand what your concerning is, please be assured that you can still use its last update software and also can repair all cars it supports even when it expires after three years

It's so awesome for you guys to keep it in excellent condition!

I've double checked with engineers, the function supported are listed as below.

1. all systems scan
2. active tests
3. read pin
4. add new keys
5. all keys lost
6. cooling fan test
7. oil reset
8. sas tpms reset
9. vin writing
10. monitor and test components
11.turn on and off the TPMS alarm

I'm afraid that D7 does not work on 2010 Mitsubishi to perform injector coding , abs bleed , epb, bms, dpf, suspension calibration and disable seat belt alarm, we're sorry for any inconvenience that may have caused.

We can offer extra free update to you if you purchase D7 scanner from us, it would be 4 years free update."
________________

I'm still hoping that an Outlander owner who owns a D7 will tell us what he thinks of it for other Outlander owners. I don't like being an early adopter or trusting a company representative to tell the truth. The good thing is that the D7 is sold on Amazon and one can return it for a refund if one does not like its performance.

 

I have bought an XTOOL D7. I have a month to return it, if necessary.

I have found out that the D7 can not turn on and off the TPMS alarm, which is IMO a deficiency, but ten years ago I turned off the alarm using the clone software of that day on a laptop that recently died, so this is not a deal-breaker, although I would like to be able to turn it off and on at will.

I got a quote from our local Mit. dealership for a new key. $575 CAD. If the D7 can program just one key, it pays for itself. I receive a key fob from China in three days. Below is what it looks like. As far as I can tell, it's identical to our OEM key. I have gone into the D7's key programming function to familiarize myself with it for when the fob arrives. I've also looked at a couple of D7 key-programming videos. Is the key shown below a "smart key" or a "non-smart key"? The reason I ask is that this is one of the first selections that one has to make before actually programming the key, and I don't want to select incorrectly or accidentally remove programming from our present two keys.

Thanks.

 

After some more research, I think I have answered my own question. See if you agreee.

We have Mitsubishi's so-called FAST key and it is in fact a "smart key".

Aside from a single test run, in our 10 years of owning this vehicle, we've never had to use the metal key-part of the two-part unit to unlock the vehicle, inset it into the ignition, place the plastic part's slot up against and over it, and start the vehicle by turning that arrangement.

The new key's manufacturer recommends NOT cutting the metal key until it is proven that the rest of the key is programmed, otherwise the key cannot be returned if it can not be programmed. This makes perfect sense to me, but it presents an obvious problem -- how can the new metal key turn the ignition switch if it is NOT cut/machined, and inserting and turning the key is required? The answer is that it can not. So, how can I "get around" this problem? I'll take a guess at the solution.

I assume that the metal part of the new key and the metal part of the OEM key can be used interchangeably (or I'm screwed). That is, the OEM metal key (that is already cut correctly) can be temporarily used with the plastic part of the new key in order to program the new key.

I also assume that the OEM metal-key is going to be inserted into the ignition with this key's protruding end inserted into the new plastic part's slotted end. This may very well be the very first step in programming the new key.

After that, some programming steps are prompted from the D7 (you know, remove, insert, maybe turn the ignition on and off, perform and ancient Chinese dance perfectly, etc.), and I perform those steps until the key is finally programmed. It it is successfully programed, THEN I get the metal part machined/cut. (Can Home Depot or Lowe's cut the key?)

Do you think I'm close to home on that proposed procedure?

 

We now have, in addition to our 2 OEM keys, the Chinese clone that I mentioned earlier and it also now works perfectly. The total cost of the clone key was $42 CAD, including $10 to get its metal emergency key cut at a local locksmith. I might buy another clone and then we'll have four working keys, two of which will be at-the-ready for the 14-year-old OEM keys to fail, which they eventually will.

So far, we like the D7 very much, but I've got a lot to learn about it before its return period expires.