question
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 253
From:
question
well i dont have money to do it right now but ive been doin alot of research on turbos and superchargers...u guys seem to know alot bout turbos so i thought id ask yall bout them...can u help me out with some first hand knowledge plz thanx!
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 253
From:
RE: question
wow good point lol i complete shot myself in the foot on that one and yes i want to supercharge or turbo it...pretty much i want to know the good vs bad of the turbo (forget lag i know all about that) how much strain does it put on the rest of the engine, other upgrades needed with it, stuff like that sry bout the question thread without the question lol
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,874
From: Norfolk, VA
RE: question
Supercharged is a leech system until you're running at 3K rpms. Once in that area a supercharger starts making power. A turbo won't leech at all as it's driven by exhaust.
As for what you need to do.... ALOT. First off are the internals. Turbo engines require a stronger internal setup than N/A engines. If you don't change your rods and pistons you will self destruct your motor in short order. You need a lower compression ration to run a turbo/super charger. N/A pistons are usually a higher compression becasue there is no extra force to push more in there. Case in point: I believe (Correct me if I'm wrong) that an 11.0:1 ratio is a fairly common one for decent power N/A cars. My Conquest running a 14G turbo is running 8.5:1 compression pistons. My pistons are also forged vice standard. Stock compression ratio for my car's pistons is actually 7.5:1. The turbo doesn't require as high a compression ratio and using an 11.0:1 ratio would like blow a head gasket in short order.
Then there's the rod strength. Bearings will need replaced as they likely are old and not up for a turbo application now.
Now let's get into fuel. Your stock N/A fuel system will likely not handle putting out enough fuel for a turbo application. you will run lean and burn the engine up eventually. You'll cook the rings and cause much trouble. There's also the fact that the more boost the higher octane you need. I run ONLY premium fuel in my car. 92 octane or higher on a stock 9 lbs of boost.
Now if you've not decided you should just go get an actual turbo car YET let me throw a few MORE wrenches in the mix. ECU will need replaced and likely the wiring involved. Harness swaps are a PAIN in the @$$. Bigger injectors will be required. Possibly a piggyback FMS and ALOT of research and dyno time to tune it. Now throw in the exhaust manifold replacement, exhaust system replacement actually as you'll be needing a different piping setup for the turbo application, purchasing the proper turbo for your application, and deciding if you should intercool it or not and you've got a hefty bill already.
Now you need to think about the MAF/MAS that will need changed, BOV, the intercooler, and the work to route all the pipes for the turbo and intercooler.
If you REALLY love your car that much, more power to you. It will take ALOT of time, cash, research, and knowledge. But you WILL learn (Either by brain or by pain) and you'll have a plethora of knowledge to share with the rest of us
.
Personally I recommend finding a vehicle already turbo charged or super charged and go from there.
Good luck and hope my advice helps.
As for what you need to do.... ALOT. First off are the internals. Turbo engines require a stronger internal setup than N/A engines. If you don't change your rods and pistons you will self destruct your motor in short order. You need a lower compression ration to run a turbo/super charger. N/A pistons are usually a higher compression becasue there is no extra force to push more in there. Case in point: I believe (Correct me if I'm wrong) that an 11.0:1 ratio is a fairly common one for decent power N/A cars. My Conquest running a 14G turbo is running 8.5:1 compression pistons. My pistons are also forged vice standard. Stock compression ratio for my car's pistons is actually 7.5:1. The turbo doesn't require as high a compression ratio and using an 11.0:1 ratio would like blow a head gasket in short order.
Then there's the rod strength. Bearings will need replaced as they likely are old and not up for a turbo application now.
Now let's get into fuel. Your stock N/A fuel system will likely not handle putting out enough fuel for a turbo application. you will run lean and burn the engine up eventually. You'll cook the rings and cause much trouble. There's also the fact that the more boost the higher octane you need. I run ONLY premium fuel in my car. 92 octane or higher on a stock 9 lbs of boost.
Now if you've not decided you should just go get an actual turbo car YET let me throw a few MORE wrenches in the mix. ECU will need replaced and likely the wiring involved. Harness swaps are a PAIN in the @$$. Bigger injectors will be required. Possibly a piggyback FMS and ALOT of research and dyno time to tune it. Now throw in the exhaust manifold replacement, exhaust system replacement actually as you'll be needing a different piping setup for the turbo application, purchasing the proper turbo for your application, and deciding if you should intercool it or not and you've got a hefty bill already.
Now you need to think about the MAF/MAS that will need changed, BOV, the intercooler, and the work to route all the pipes for the turbo and intercooler.
If you REALLY love your car that much, more power to you. It will take ALOT of time, cash, research, and knowledge. But you WILL learn (Either by brain or by pain) and you'll have a plethora of knowledge to share with the rest of us
. Personally I recommend finding a vehicle already turbo charged or super charged and go from there.
Good luck and hope my advice helps.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 253
From:
RE: question
damn...helps alot actually, didnt know all of that, i had alot of guesses and most were right but u added a few kinks i didnt know, thanx maybe ill just find a turbo'ed engine and drop it in cuz i really do love my car now, or maybe i should jsut buy an evo lol
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,874
From: Norfolk, VA
RE: question
Dropping a turbo engine in is still a chore but MUCH easier than trying to turbo an N/A engine. If you go that route make sure to swap the ECU and harness. The fuel maps will be different on a turbo than an N/A engine. Or go the easier route and buy the turbo Evo if you can find one. Glad to be of assistance. I'd rather see you build a cart that runs good AND makes power and that you're happy with than one you build and it makes power shortly before it breaks.
Or go the easier route and buy the turbo Evo if you can find one. Glad to be of assistance. I'd rather see you build a cart that runs good AND makes power and that you're happy with than one you build and it makes power shortly before it breaks.
