Okay well heres what im going to do as of now. Im going to call the people who built the engine to begin with and see what they say because by what i understand its still under warrenty. Then if i have to get new heads im going to go to Slawko Racing Heads in PA because my girlfriends mom's borther owns slawko and i could get a deal on the heads and valves and everything. THen if that faisl im going to buy my friends talon thats a 6 bolt and swap it in my eclipse and call it a day

 

I doubt the head is toast but either way if it's still under warranty and the bearing self destructed that badly I'd say talk to the guys at the shop and see if they'll do teh work for a bulletproof bottom end. Tell them you'll pay the difference in the price for it. That'd be what I'd do at least.

 

Okay if its lower end ts crank walk . if its upper end its a head problem and a rocker is messed up.

 

a little bit of information for you all (which most of you probably already know).
the thrust bearing was redesigned around 97. The instances of crankwalk decreased dramatically after that. the thrust bearing became a much larger, seperate bearing for only the top half of the block on later models. the block is machined differently, and the two are not interchangable.
the cars with automatics almost never suffer from it, as there is basically no lateral load on the crank.
heavy clutches make it far, far worse.

also, crankwalk can certainly occur on a 6 bolt. Any engine, for that matter. Hell, it kinda goes back further than that, as ive seen a 78 colt with crankwalk.

 

people just over-react about it, any engine can do it like he said, the smart guys who beat their new shiny underdrive pulleys on with a hammer and smash the thrust bearing were probly the first ones to come up with that problem

 

okay last night i was dicking around under the hood ( not takeinaking anything apar just checking fluids and the oil was JET black and its brand new oil.

 

how brand new because regular oil will change color pretty quick.

 

Not necessarily. It all depends on the previous life of the engine. I've seen cars with 60K + miles on them after 3K on an oil change, have the oil come out looking like it never ran through an engine. Then there's cars like mine where I changed the oil started the engine and it instaled turned jet black. If you are going to do a full rebuild then I'd have the block tanked and all the oil passages cleaned REALLY well. If you're only having the lower end rebuilt then if you have a non turbo I'd run an oil system cleaner (They're mostly kerosene which breaks the oil and deposits down and flushes them out of the system) to clean up the oil. If you have a turbo then change the oil every 300 miles for about 1500 miles (5 changes) and that SHOULD get most of the crap out of the system.

 

like but it in and it sat in a parking lot for 5 days and then towed to my house started three times for 2 seconds ( literally 2 second) and its all ready black as the night. And its going to be a upper end rebild if anythign

 

Like I said when I changed my oil all I had to do was start the car and it was black. Hopefully with the work I've done (Oil pan, timing chain and guides, oil pump...) it cleared MOST of the crap oil out. Though I KNOW the turbo has oil left in it so... I'll be doing another oil change in a few hundred miles to see if it's any clearer.