CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS
#11
RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS
ORIGINAL: eclipsed4u
if you replace the bearing and the crank(the parts that are causing the car to crankwalk), how is it going to crankwalk again? there will be no shaft play. the dealership just replaces the crank and bearings and i've never heard of the same engine crankwalking twice after the dealership replaced the parts. i haven't heard of one dealership dropping in a 6-bolt engine to cure the crankwalk issue.
ORIGINAL: DSMTalonAWD51
what are you starting with a 2g right? is say put in a complete 1g motor, or a 1g(6bolt) bottom end and 2g head, depending you your preferance. why would you start with a 2g bottom end again. you will cw again
ORIGINAL: congonator
Ok, so i have read everything that i could find about crankwalk issues and have fell vicitim to it...but this issue has allowed me to build what i have wanted for years....instead of going 1g though, i am going to build a 2g bottom end and everything else 1g....head, cams, intake, etc, all 1g.....now upon this....[size=6]i have been reading everything and people have said that there is steel inserts to resolve main studs from moving and also the oil squirter elimination....what is your take on my go about building a new baby without 1g?????Everyone respond,....the more the better[/size][/size]
Ok, so i have read everything that i could find about crankwalk issues and have fell vicitim to it...but this issue has allowed me to build what i have wanted for years....instead of going 1g though, i am going to build a 2g bottom end and everything else 1g....head, cams, intake, etc, all 1g.....now upon this....[size=6]i have been reading everything and people have said that there is steel inserts to resolve main studs from moving and also the oil squirter elimination....what is your take on my go about building a new baby without 1g?????Everyone respond,....the more the better[/size][/size]
#12
RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS
ORIGINAL: domestickilla
i dont know your experance with 1g and 2g heads but ive had much better performance n flow with all my race 2g heads over my 1g's
ORIGINAL: DSMTalonAWD51
since when? the 1g head flows way more, but the 2g head makes better low end power because of its smaller runners. Id go with whatever is available though, and the 2g head wont become restrictive until the 450-500whp zone
ORIGINAL: domestickilla
have fun with your new project build but FYI the 2G head flows better n can be made to flow alot more
have fun with your new project build but FYI the 2G head flows better n can be made to flow alot more
i dont know your experance with 1g and 2g heads but ive had much better performance n flow with all my race 2g heads over my 1g's
#13
RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS
ORIGINAL: DSMTalonAWD51
You have not read the 500 page long bible of crankwalk info on roadrace's website then. plenty of people who fixed their bottom end at the dealer crankwalked again, some within 10k miles. read up. The only almost for sure way to never have to worry about it again is to put in a 6bolt
ORIGINAL: eclipsed4u
if you replace the bearing and the crank(the parts that are causing the car to crankwalk), how is it going to crankwalk again? there will be no shaft play. the dealership just replaces the crank and bearings and i've never heard of the same engine crankwalking twice after the dealership replaced the parts. i haven't heard of one dealership dropping in a 6-bolt engine to cure the crankwalk issue.
ORIGINAL: DSMTalonAWD51
what are you starting with a 2g right? is say put in a complete 1g motor, or a 1g(6bolt) bottom end and 2g head, depending you your preferance. why would you start with a 2g bottom end again. you will cw again
ORIGINAL: congonator
Ok, so i have read everything that i could find about crankwalk issues and have fell vicitim to it...but this issue has allowed me to build what i have wanted for years....instead of going 1g though, i am going to build a 2g bottom end and everything else 1g....head, cams, intake, etc, all 1g.....now upon this....[size=6]i have been reading everything and people have said that there is steel inserts to resolve main studs from moving and also the oil squirter elimination....what is your take on my go about building a new baby without 1g?????Everyone respond,....the more the better[/size][/size]
Ok, so i have read everything that i could find about crankwalk issues and have fell vicitim to it...but this issue has allowed me to build what i have wanted for years....instead of going 1g though, i am going to build a 2g bottom end and everything else 1g....head, cams, intake, etc, all 1g.....now upon this....[size=6]i have been reading everything and people have said that there is steel inserts to resolve main studs from moving and also the oil squirter elimination....what is your take on my go about building a new baby without 1g?????Everyone respond,....the more the better[/size][/size]
#14
RE: CRANKWALK SUGGESTIONS
Well: Here is my current setup....ordered the parts today
1g head
1mm oversized valves
New springs and retainers
Port and polish
2g block
Wiseco 9:1 pistons, .20 over
Manley rods
Arp Head, main studs
New crank
1g Intake manifold from a 1992 cyclone turbo, powder coated black
60mm throttle body
Shepherd racing stage 1 transmission
1Fab topmount turbo manifold
Precision SCM6152E turbo
Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
880cc PTE injectors
1g head
1mm oversized valves
New springs and retainers
Port and polish
2g block
Wiseco 9:1 pistons, .20 over
Manley rods
Arp Head, main studs
New crank
1g Intake manifold from a 1992 cyclone turbo, powder coated black
60mm throttle body
Shepherd racing stage 1 transmission
1Fab topmount turbo manifold
Precision SCM6152E turbo
Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
880cc PTE injectors
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