hes saying he thinks he over tightened. My question is what kinda head studs are you using. Did you buy new factory ones?

 

Well, to tell you the truth, i dont think they are stock, and they are not ARP. It was some brand, I THINK. If not then they are the stock ones...

 

And yes i already have my Haynes book, just left it at home. Ok, i found the torque specs on dsmtuners. So thats how i got 72. And awhile back we talked about this, and people here were saying 80-100 is fine. My block can handle it (or something like that)

 

72 is for oem bolts. 80-100 is for arp, they can handle the stress.

 

SO, i am good there?

 

well the reason i was asking if they were stock was to make sure you used the procedure that i outlined. Either way i think your gonna be fine. But the procedure is because the stock bolts are called Torque-To-Yield bolts. You basically stretch them first, then torque them down. Thats why they are pretty much not re-usable

 

in either case in apx 150-200 miles it's always a good idea to take the valve cover back off and tighten them back down to specs. this will ensure a tight seal for the rest of your engine/head gasket/car's life.

 

I did that after 100 miles. well sorda. This is what i did exactly. when i was first doing it, i torqued them at 48 ft.lbs, then loosened them, then 1/4 turn, and another 1/4 turn. (something like that) Well, one hundred miles later, i did some research to make sure, and found 72 lbs on dsmtuners. So i took off the valve cover and torqued them then at 72. And havent done it since. Should i do it again? And keep it at 72?

 

sounds to me like you did the right procedure. I think you should be fine. And the torque sounds good.

 

no, if you re-did it, you are good to go. now just look in ur book when u get home and check the specs for the valve cover. (i never do mine to torque specs... i just tighten them w/ a wratchet and it's always worked fine for me.