im buying a 95 awd turbo talon, big 16g 550 injectors, 255 fuel pump, diff air filter, catback apexi exhaust.this is absolutely everything that he has done to this car

do i need to do any modding to support the things that are already done to it, ie. bov, turbo timer, boost controller, anything? im new to this type of thing
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Here's a referrence FAQ for you.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/m_125438/tm.htm
Note that the big16g is only 50CFMs "smaller" than the e316g.

The one thing that you seem to be missing is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Yeah, your car may be fine without it, but the point is fuel pressure control and that tiny fps doesn't have it.
Before getting a boost controller (you'll need one of these too). I can't stress enough about getting a boost gauge first. If you only had $50 to spend at a time, get the boost gauge before the boost controller (~$50). If and when you do turn up the psi, you will need a new bov...Greddy, Forge, HKS, even a stock 1G bov, whatever you get, you will need a new upper intercooler piping with the correct flange (correct flange? meaning Greddy, Forge, HKS, even a stock 1G bov flange, whichever one you get, you will need that corresponding flange). Why, what's wrong with my stock 2G bov? It will leak above stock levels, guaranteed. Maybe not until 15psi (stock is 10-15psi for a 2G), but it will leak. I will also suggest a turbo timer, those can be had for low prices nowadays.
With what you already are getting, you should be pretty happy with it. I would also suggest a full exhaust, a turboback instead of just a catback, so for that you'll need a new downpipe, highflow cat or test pipe (unless that was already changed out), and you're done....guys, chime in.

 

Points for Silver, you cant get a better reference than that, lol.

 

yes you can... FMIC time. 1 ^ for Ron. lol

 

Oh yeah, that's true. +1 for Ron, lol. An FMIC is a good investment too and it will most likely determine the type of UICP you will get. Meaning that you can get, or make, short route piping or keep the long route piping...if you keep the long route, then the UICP won't matter who or what you get, because most kits come with the upper and lower piping...unless otherwise stated.
The side mount intercooler will heatsoak fairly fast if you gun it a lot. Just know that heat is a big contributor to knock and the less heat in the charged air, the less knock...fuel too, but we're talking about FMICs

 

Oh fine, fine... hes right, ^1 for Ron... dammit, lol..

 

yes!! lol while getting ur fmic and hard pipe, i'd recomend getting a bov (greddy type s, greddy type rs, or hks SSQ). no need to weld on a flange for ur stock bov then replace it later when you turn up the boost but cutting it off. after that i'd say a SAFCII or DSMLink to tune ur car. once you get it tuned i'm sure you'll be happy for a good bit, that can put you up as high as 350whp (more realisticly on a daily basis about 320-335 though)

 

And before he asks... DONT attempt, for any reason, to vent to atmosphere, use your recirc. kit...

 

good call... i (for whatever reason) always assume that ppl know that fact b/c we talk about it about 10 times a week on here lol. c577 trust us, you relatively can't vent. there are 3 ways to do it. 1 spend 2000 bucks + tuning for a stand alone to hear a rush of air. 2 spend 500 + tuning on a maf-translator which i hear is an absolute nightmare to tune with and is VERY sensative. heard just last week somebody had to retune their car every time it rained. and 3try to tune it on stock ECU but every time you boost and let off the gas you will still fumble the car and get a rough shift. it's really not worth it. i AM one of those "ricers" who likes to hear the vented bov also but it's honestly just not worth it.

 

Ron, make that quote a sticky somewhere, lol