So I am wondering how to get rid of lifter tick. I read somewhere about swapping 3g lifters? Is that right? Can anyone tell me which lifters to use to replace my originals with in order to kill lifter tick. I also read this write up and I was wondering if this is correct, and if there was a better one with better pics?

Thx

 

thats about the best youll get for a write-up. As far as where you can get the revised lifters is here
http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product157.html

 

Awesome. Is there anything else I can/should do while I am in there? Just FYI, I wont be pulling off the head. Thx

 

well if you feel your valve seals need to be done its not a bad thing to do, obviously youll be doing the valve cover gasket

 

Yea I already replaced my valve cover and all the gaskets. I had a leak so I had to do it. I shoulda replaced the lifters then but that dint occur to me until I had the cover off. Lol Yea, I have to look into how to do the seals. Thx I want to install ARP head studs too, but I dunno if I can do that all in one day. Lol The writeups for that just confuse the crap outta me. I guess that'll be another thread.

Thx

 

Aw man, I read the vfaq on replacing the valvestem seals. Do I really have to take out my timing belt and cams? Sorry if it's a noob question.

Thx

 

yea, i was only suggesting it because i know alot of times those seals can be bad and youll have black smoke comming out the exhaust between shifts and such, because they will be leaking oil into the combustion chamber. But if your not really seeing any issues then dont even worry about it.

And to do the arp head studs, you can actually do the 1+1 method where you remove only one stock head stud and replace it with an arp one. Im not sure on the torquing procedure for this though. But i know it can be done to replace the studs without removing the head or components.

 

Yea, I don't think I have any black smoke, but I'll check.

I can definitely dig the 1+1 method for the stud install. I know there is info in the manual, but is there any writeup with pics for a 2g install. Vfaq has info for a 1g and I dunno if they are the same.

Thx

 

Ok after a little bit of reasearch this seems to be the correct way to do the install without removing the head from a couple of sources:

Specialty Tools
- Allen Head socket (to fit the stock and arp bolts)
- torque wrench

Steps
1. Drain the coolant (this is a must)
2. Remove one stock head stud and replace with ARP head stud. Only put the ARP stud in to hand tight. Dont put the nut on the stud yet.
**repeat step 2 until youve done all 10 of the head studs.
3. Now put on all of the head nuts to hand tight.
4. Torque down all of the bolts in the correct sequence according to the ARP instructions or repair manual. Make sure to torque the head studs in steps (ex. 60 ft-lb..then to..70ft-lb..then to..80ft-lb).
5. Fill the coolant
5. After approximately 50 miles, retorque all the studs to make sure they are at 80 ft-lb

 

Dude you rock, thx for the info.