Speaker installation
#1
08-02-2007, 12:58 AM
Speaker installation
About to buy 2 pairs of these http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/produ...172444&c=1
Was wondering how easy it is to install speakers myself? Im not really an audio guy and i figured i would be able to figure it out.
For wiring I would probably need these http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/produ...=81024&c=1 ?
and for the spacers I would need these http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/produ...=89600&c=1 right?
For the speaker installation, do you have to remove the whole door panel or just the grill? I dont really know how to remove the whole door panel but i could probably figure out how to remove the grill. For the rear speakers, how do I install those? The reason i need new speakers is my old stock ones aren't working well with my new head unit (DEH-5900ib) and thus i need new speakers. Thanks for the help. Btw its a 98 mits eclipse rs
Was wondering how easy it is to install speakers myself? Im not really an audio guy and i figured i would be able to figure it out.
For wiring I would probably need these http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/produ...=81024&c=1 ?
and for the spacers I would need these http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/produ...=89600&c=1 right?
For the speaker installation, do you have to remove the whole door panel or just the grill? I dont really know how to remove the whole door panel but i could probably figure out how to remove the grill. For the rear speakers, how do I install those? The reason i need new speakers is my old stock ones aren't working well with my new head unit (DEH-5900ib) and thus i need new speakers. Thanks for the help. Btw its a 98 mits eclipse rs
#2
08-02-2007, 01:13 AM
RE: Speaker installation
You will need to remove the entire door panel. I can post a how-to on the door panel. That's not a problem at all. The speaker grill is heat-welded to the panel on the backside, you won't be able to remove the grill without seriously screwing it up. Leave the grill alone and just remove the door panel.
You don't really need that speaker wire harness either. Simple female blade connectors will do to connect to the new speakers. You don't need those spacers either. BTW, I don't know if you know this or not, but you don't use the aftermarket grills. You can toss those out along with the box.
Window rattle fix (2G) [/align] [hr] The following is by DSMtalk.com Community Member 16g-95GSX
Fix the 2G window rattle
As almost all 2g owners know, when your windows are down and you shut the doors, it sounds as if they are about to fall apart. It's enough to make you cringe when you hear it. What most DSMers don't seem to realize, is just how easy it is to fix this problem! This article shows you exactly how with pictures for each step.
Thanks to a few other DSMers I was able to fix my rattle for free and with little effort. While I was at it, I went ahead and took some pictures to show you guys, so here goes:
Items you will need:
1) 10mm shallow socket
2) socket wrench
3) vise grips or other clamping device
4) phillips head screwdriver
5) flat head screwdriver
First thing, roll your window down about 3/4's of the way like shown here in this picture:
Next you are going to have to remove the stock door panel. The panel is held on by about 6 screws total, and a few plastic clips. Most of the screws are located underneath tiny plastic caps that are camouflaged with the door panel itself. To take these caps off, just get a very thin tipped flat-head screwdriver and then pry them off.
(Pry all of these caps off)
Remove all of the screws underneath and then proceed on to the inner door handle, removing both the screw behind the handle itself, and the one below the cap in the cupped portion of the door.
(Pry the cap off, and remove the screw in the cup portion of the door)
Once those are removed, slide the plastic piece behind the door handle toward the front of the car, and then remove it.
(Remove the screw behind the handle, and then slide the plastic trim piece towards the front of the car and remove it)
Now you can remove the actual door panel itself. Just pull it with your hand, starting in one of the top corners of it, and slowly working your way around the door, until it pops right off. Now disconnect the wiring harness that connects to the door switches, by pressing in on the tab and pulling outwards.
Careful as this harness for some reason sometimes is a pain to get out, and also the dsm switch panel is very delicate and you can easily break the plastic where the screws connect to the door panel itself, causing your switches to actually fall out of the door panel, which isn't a good thing if you've experienced it. So be gentle, but remove the harness. Once you have done this then set the door panel aside where it won't get damaged.
Now that that is off, remove the 4 screws holding in the black plastic trim around your speaker. You could remove the speaker's screws, but you might as well just remove the black trim screws instead and give yourself much more room to work with.
(Remove the screws around the black trim piece)
Pull the speaker out, and set it on top of something, so that it isnt just simply hanging there from the door. I used a good old aristocrat box to set it on top of
.
(A nice big hole)
***edited because you didn't the other info***
You don't really need that speaker wire harness either. Simple female blade connectors will do to connect to the new speakers. You don't need those spacers either. BTW, I don't know if you know this or not, but you don't use the aftermarket grills. You can toss those out along with the box.
Window rattle fix (2G) [/align] [hr] The following is by DSMtalk.com Community Member 16g-95GSXFix the 2G window rattle
As almost all 2g owners know, when your windows are down and you shut the doors, it sounds as if they are about to fall apart. It's enough to make you cringe when you hear it. What most DSMers don't seem to realize, is just how easy it is to fix this problem! This article shows you exactly how with pictures for each step.
Thanks to a few other DSMers I was able to fix my rattle for free and with little effort. While I was at it, I went ahead and took some pictures to show you guys, so here goes:
Items you will need:
1) 10mm shallow socket
2) socket wrench
3) vise grips or other clamping device
4) phillips head screwdriver
5) flat head screwdriver
First thing, roll your window down about 3/4's of the way like shown here in this picture:
Next you are going to have to remove the stock door panel. The panel is held on by about 6 screws total, and a few plastic clips. Most of the screws are located underneath tiny plastic caps that are camouflaged with the door panel itself. To take these caps off, just get a very thin tipped flat-head screwdriver and then pry them off.
(Pry all of these caps off)
Remove all of the screws underneath and then proceed on to the inner door handle, removing both the screw behind the handle itself, and the one below the cap in the cupped portion of the door.
(Pry the cap off, and remove the screw in the cup portion of the door)
Once those are removed, slide the plastic piece behind the door handle toward the front of the car, and then remove it.
(Remove the screw behind the handle, and then slide the plastic trim piece towards the front of the car and remove it)
Now you can remove the actual door panel itself. Just pull it with your hand, starting in one of the top corners of it, and slowly working your way around the door, until it pops right off. Now disconnect the wiring harness that connects to the door switches, by pressing in on the tab and pulling outwards.
Careful as this harness for some reason sometimes is a pain to get out, and also the dsm switch panel is very delicate and you can easily break the plastic where the screws connect to the door panel itself, causing your switches to actually fall out of the door panel, which isn't a good thing if you've experienced it. So be gentle, but remove the harness. Once you have done this then set the door panel aside where it won't get damaged.
Now that that is off, remove the 4 screws holding in the black plastic trim around your speaker. You could remove the speaker's screws, but you might as well just remove the black trim screws instead and give yourself much more room to work with.
(Remove the screws around the black trim piece)
Pull the speaker out, and set it on top of something, so that it isnt just simply hanging there from the door. I used a good old aristocrat box to set it on top of
. (A nice big hole)
#3
08-02-2007, 01:28 AM
RE: Speaker installation
Awesome thanks for the post, and yes i did know you dont use the aftermarket grills. And about the rear speakers? Dont know where to start on those, and as far as the speaker harness and spacers...I dont need them? Crutchfield says i do but if I dont need them, then great!
#4
08-02-2007, 01:50 AM
RE: Speaker installation
hey john, could you either repost that with the rest of that tutorial? or at least the link to that thread? i would love to fix that window rattle, i had no idea you could fix it... i have a 96 rs by the way, i would assume that's it wont make a difference, but what the hey
#5
08-02-2007, 10:28 AM
RE: Speaker installation
krypt. i don't have a beautiful drawn out tutorial w/ pics and stuff on how to do the rear BUT lol i do know that it's as easy as3 screws for the rear panels to come off. Its easier if you take the running pannel off (the long narrow pannel tha the door closes on - it just pops right off) once you take the3 screws out (one on top towards the rear, one on the bottom towards the rear (need to take the rear seat off/out to do this - very easy) and one more on the bottom of the pannel towards the middle of the back seat if i remember correctly) just take these out and pull and it pops right out... very simple..
#7
08-02-2007, 04:18 PM
RE: Speaker installation
Well, I was trying to keep on topic, but...
[quote] Window rattle fix (2G) [/align] [hr] The following is by DSMtalk.com Community Member 16g-95GSX
Fix the 2G window rattle
As almost all 2g owners know, when your windows are down and you shut the doors, it sounds as if they are about to fall apart. It's enough to make you cringe when you hear it. What most DSMers don't seem to realize, is just how easy it is to fix this problem! This article shows you exactly how with pictures for each step.
Thanks to a few other DSMers I was able to fix my rattle for free and with little effort. While I was at it, I went ahead and took some pictures to show you guys, so here goes:
Items you will need:
1) 10mm shallow socket
2) socket wrench
3) vise grips or other clamping device
4) phillips head screwdriver
5) flat head screwdriver
First thing, roll your window down about 3/4's of the way like shown here in this picture:
Next you are going to have to remove the stock door panel. The panel is held on by about 6 screws total, and a few plastic clips. Most of the screws are located underneath tiny plastic caps that are camouflaged with the door panel itself. To take these caps off, just get a very thin tipped flat-head screwdriver and then pry them off.
(Pry all of these caps off)
Remove all of the screws underneath and then proceed on to the inner door handle, removing both the screw behind the handle itself, and the one below the cap in the cupped portion of the door.
(Pry the cap off, and remove the screw in the cup portion of the door)
Once those are removed, slide the plastic piece behind the door handle toward the front of the car, and then remove it.
(Remove the screw behind the handle, and then slide the plastic trim piece towards the front of the car and remove it)
Now you can remove the actual door panel itself. Just pull it with your hand, starting in one of the top corners of it, and slowly working your way around the door, until it pops right off. Now disconnect the wiring harness that connects to the door switches, by pressing in on the tab and pulling outwards.
Careful as this harness for some reason sometimes is a pain to get out, and also the dsm switch panel is very delicate and you can easily break the plastic where the screws connect to the door panel itself, causing your switches to actually fall out of the door panel, which isn't a good thing if you've experienced it. So be gentle, but remove the harness. Once you have done this then set the door panel aside where it won't get damaged.
Now that that is off, remove the 4 screws holding in the black plastic trim around your speaker. You could remove the speaker's screws, but you might as well just remove the black trim screws instead and give yourself much more room to work with.
(Remove the screws around the black trim piece)
Pull the speaker out, and set it on top of something, so that it isnt just simply hanging there from the door. I used a good old aristocrat box to set it on top of.
(A nice big hole)
Now that that is done, look inside the hole towards the front of the car, and there you will see a brass colored bracket connected to the window. This is the source of all your dreaded rattle. The plastic clips on this bracket slowly expand over time, allowing the window to begin rattling. Reach in through this hole with a socket wrench and 10mm shallow socket, and remove the one nut holding the bracket on. Carefully pull the bracket out, making sure not to get any grease on the actual window itself.
(Remove this one 10mm nut and carefully slide the bracket out)
Here it is, the stupid plastic clip.
Take a nice set of vise grips or thick pliers and just clamp it down
some so that the plastic is closer together. That is it. Task complete!
(Clamp this plastic so it looks like this)
Now there has also been some talk about adjusting the felt pads that cushion the window up top. Your pads aren't necessarily off, but if you wish to attempt to adjust them then they are located at the top of the door. They will have allen wrench holes, as well as 10mm nuts surrounding them. Play with them if you wish, but I found mine to not need any adjustment at all.
Screw back in the speaker, plug back in the wiring harness to the door panel, install the door panel being sure to have every plastic clip correctly snap into place, reinstall the door handle piece, and re-screw in all the screws that held the door in, and you are done. Go ahead and test her out, I assure you she will be 10x better and you will be extremely satisfied with the results, as it literally takes 5 minutes if you know what you are doing before you start. Good Luck!
BONUS:
**In addition to this, while your door pa
[quote]
Window rattle fix (2G) [/align] [hr] The following is by DSMtalk.com Community Member 16g-95GSXFix the 2G window rattle
As almost all 2g owners know, when your windows are down and you shut the doors, it sounds as if they are about to fall apart. It's enough to make you cringe when you hear it. What most DSMers don't seem to realize, is just how easy it is to fix this problem! This article shows you exactly how with pictures for each step.
Thanks to a few other DSMers I was able to fix my rattle for free and with little effort. While I was at it, I went ahead and took some pictures to show you guys, so here goes:
Items you will need:
1) 10mm shallow socket
2) socket wrench
3) vise grips or other clamping device
4) phillips head screwdriver
5) flat head screwdriver
First thing, roll your window down about 3/4's of the way like shown here in this picture:
Next you are going to have to remove the stock door panel. The panel is held on by about 6 screws total, and a few plastic clips. Most of the screws are located underneath tiny plastic caps that are camouflaged with the door panel itself. To take these caps off, just get a very thin tipped flat-head screwdriver and then pry them off.
(Pry all of these caps off)
Remove all of the screws underneath and then proceed on to the inner door handle, removing both the screw behind the handle itself, and the one below the cap in the cupped portion of the door.
(Pry the cap off, and remove the screw in the cup portion of the door)
Once those are removed, slide the plastic piece behind the door handle toward the front of the car, and then remove it.
(Remove the screw behind the handle, and then slide the plastic trim piece towards the front of the car and remove it)
Now you can remove the actual door panel itself. Just pull it with your hand, starting in one of the top corners of it, and slowly working your way around the door, until it pops right off. Now disconnect the wiring harness that connects to the door switches, by pressing in on the tab and pulling outwards.
Careful as this harness for some reason sometimes is a pain to get out, and also the dsm switch panel is very delicate and you can easily break the plastic where the screws connect to the door panel itself, causing your switches to actually fall out of the door panel, which isn't a good thing if you've experienced it. So be gentle, but remove the harness. Once you have done this then set the door panel aside where it won't get damaged.
Now that that is off, remove the 4 screws holding in the black plastic trim around your speaker. You could remove the speaker's screws, but you might as well just remove the black trim screws instead and give yourself much more room to work with.
(Remove the screws around the black trim piece)
Pull the speaker out, and set it on top of something, so that it isnt just simply hanging there from the door. I used a good old aristocrat box to set it on top of
. (A nice big hole)
Now that that is done, look inside the hole towards the front of the car, and there you will see a brass colored bracket connected to the window. This is the source of all your dreaded rattle. The plastic clips on this bracket slowly expand over time, allowing the window to begin rattling. Reach in through this hole with a socket wrench and 10mm shallow socket, and remove the one nut holding the bracket on. Carefully pull the bracket out, making sure not to get any grease on the actual window itself.
(Remove this one 10mm nut and carefully slide the bracket out)
Here it is, the stupid plastic clip.
Take a nice set of vise grips or thick pliers and just clamp it down
some so that the plastic is closer together. That is it. Task complete!
(Clamp this plastic so it looks like this)
Now there has also been some talk about adjusting the felt pads that cushion the window up top. Your pads aren't necessarily off, but if you wish to attempt to adjust them then they are located at the top of the door. They will have allen wrench holes, as well as 10mm nuts surrounding them. Play with them if you wish, but I found mine to not need any adjustment at all.
Screw back in the speaker, plug back in the wiring harness to the door panel, install the door panel being sure to have every plastic clip correctly snap into place, reinstall the door handle piece, and re-screw in all the screws that held the door in, and you are done. Go ahead and test her out, I assure you she will be 10x better and you will be extremely satisfied with the results, as it literally takes 5 minutes if you know what you are doing before you start. Good Luck!
BONUS:
**In addition to this, while your door pa
#8
08-02-2007, 04:27 PM
RE: Speaker installation
...but like I told Tyler, I don't recommend pinching the triangle piece to tighten the white plastic piece because that plastic piece is what slides on the metal rail that goes up/down the door. Pinch that piece and the window will go up/down slower than it already does.
The biggest "rattler" on that part is the little oddball nut that holds it on the glass. I suggested using thread lock to keep it from backing out....that is what causes the rattle. That is what rattles on the glass, metal to glass rattle, not plastic to metal. Well, it does but it's barely noticeable and not obnoxious.
The biggest "rattler" on that part is the little oddball nut that holds it on the glass. I suggested using thread lock to keep it from backing out....that is what causes the rattle. That is what rattles on the glass, metal to glass rattle, not plastic to metal. Well, it does but it's barely noticeable and not obnoxious.
#9
08-02-2007, 05:42 PM
RE: Speaker installation
Hahaha there you go hijacking threads again silver =) i know how to remove the back panels as well.... but what i need is apparently some less higher speakers, cuz the ones i was about to install on the back of my 2g, well... the magnet touched the metal all the way into, and i was like... oooook, and just tried to put the pannel over them and well.... i couldnt... so is there any height sizes for the speakers? or something like that? o_O
#10
08-02-2007, 07:32 PM
RE: Speaker installation
YES! SUCCESS! NO MORE RATTLE! Sorry for the yelling... its just... its been doing that for... well... since I got the damn thing. Even my 3G is startin to do it now!
Oh, and THANK YOU SILVER!!!!!!
Oh, and THANK YOU SILVER!!!!!!