NOTE: all info and pics were done by 9GUY9 on Evolutionm.net I can take no credit is this[/align]


[hr]

A few different people asked me to post pics of my engine build so here they are. This was my second 4G63 build. I built a 2.4l 6 bolt for my Talon about a year and a half ago. I don't claim to be a expert, infact it amazes me that i can build a engine that runs

Here's how the whole thing started out. I was offered a awesome deal on a 03 EVO with a spun #1 rod bearing. After scrambling to find a truck and trailer the car came home on July 28th.



Engine out on the 30th. Block to the machine shop on the 31st. Notice the dirt. The car had been sitting in a machine shed since Feb 05.
The ugly, one piece crank and rod bearing




While I was waiting on parts decided to clean out the engine bay while there was no engine/trans in the way. I covered all the hoses and pipes with plastic bags to keep water from getting where it shouldn't be



Decided to go with a stroker, if I have to rebuild a engine might as well have some fun Parts started showing up by Aug 2nd.



Block back from the machine shop on the 3rd. The bores were in pretty good shape so i had the block decked, honed and hot tanked.
First thing to do, give the block a bath. I used foaming engine bay cleaner and simple green along with a assortment of brushes. After i cleaned the block i wiped it down with clean motor oil to prevent rust, and covered it with a bag when i wasn't working on it.



Clean block and all parts. Every things ready to go. Wiseco 8.5:1 2.3L pistons, Eagle rods, New mitsu 2.4L crank, Mitsu Engine Gasket kit, ACl bearings, and ARp head studs. Before starting I numbered all pistons and rods 1-4 so i knew what went where and to keep all my measurements strait. I also wrote the cylinder numbers on top of the block to eliminate and possibility of error.





I wanted to measure all clearances. however I'm too cheap to buy a proper bore gauge (I'm a DSM'r), so I became quite good at using a snap gauge. I took at least 3 measurements of every thing and averaged them out. I also used plasti gauge, but I'll show that later. Before i measured all clearances i cleaned the surfaces to be measured with brake cleaner and clan rag.

Measuring bore with snap gauge.



Taking measurement from snap gauge with micrometer (I'm actually measuring a snap gauge used for the crank main bore, but its the same idea).



Measuring the piston Diameter with the mic. This pic is of a piston rod combo because I forgot to take a pic before I assembled the pistons and rods. Difference between the 2 measurements is the piston to wall clearance. I had numbers of .0020".



Next I bolted the crank cradle to the block and torqued to spec. So I could measure the crank main bores in the same way, as the cylinder bores.



To measure the main and rod bearings i used a ball bearing and a small piece of fuel line attached to the mic so that i could get a true reading of the bearing thickness. With out the ball bearing the curve of the bearing gives a inaccurate reading, as the mic has a flat end that is unable to sit on the bearings curved surface. o get the total thickness of the bearings I multiplied the thickness by 2 since it sits on both sides of the crank.



Measuring the crank main journals. The difference between the main bore and the bearing thickness X2 plus the main journals is the main bearing clearance. I got numbers rite around .0016"



Since i wanted to plasti gauge the bearing clearances as well I removed the main bearing cradle and installed main bearings (after cleaning them), in both the block and the cradle. I then re-installed the crank. I put a piece of plasti gauge on the top of each main journal. Then re-installed the main cradle and bearings, and torqued the main bolts to spec. This compresses the plasti gauge between the crank and bearings. Once all the bolts have been torqued to spec I removed them, and the cradle. The piece of plasti gauge is now a smashed piece of wax stuck to the crank and bearing. Using the supplied measuring table with the plasti gauge I measured the clearance to get .002-.003" on all 5 bearings. This is pretty close to what i got with the snap gauge and mic, as well as what I wanted, so I was happy with that. After i was done with this I cleaned the plasti gauge off the crank and bearings with WD40 and a rag.

Bearings installed in block.


Cradle bolted down with plasti gauge.



What it looks like after I removed the cradle and top bearings.



Measuring the plasti gauge.



Next i installed the crank into the block, but in hind sight I should have measured the rod to crank clearances first. It would have been much easier to do with the crank out of the block. I measured the rod bearing clearances much the same as the mains.

After bolting the rod caps on and torquing to spec I measured the bore diameter with the snap gauge, just like the main bores. Then i measured the bearing thickness the same way as the main bearings. I found my clearances just like the mains. Rod race diameter minus bearing thickness X 2 + rod journal diameter. My clearances were all about .0020", what I wanted



Measuring the rod journals, just like the mains.



Just like the mains I plasti gauged the rod bearings. Install the clean bearings in the rod and rod cap. Bolt them to the crank with a piece of plasti gauge and torque to spec. All of them showed .0020" with the plasti gauge, so I was satisfied.



Something the got me all worked up just bef

 

how much for the car, engine build... and all the other stuff, if you dont mind me asking?

 

thats not my car as I noted in the first post, but roughly my car I paid $22k it was bone stock. all this yellow EVO has is the motor. the BR kit runs about $2,600 and if you build it yourself then your saving on the labor costs.

 

That dude did it RIGHT.

damn