alternator? or cluster?
#1
05-08-2007, 03:24 AM
alternator? or cluster?
thanks ahead of time for the help...
my 1996 gst is not charging the alternator. i took it to the shop and i was told that diode in the cluster burned out and that's why the alternator is not charging. i was told that the alternator was checked and everything is ok with, but i wonder. Now, i thought that the battery is connected to a relay and then to the alternator. could it really be something in the cluster? i tried checking the alternator by starting the car and then removing the positive connection to the battery and it died right away. could it be the alternator that went out and was never checked. any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!
my 1996 gst is not charging the alternator. i took it to the shop and i was told that diode in the cluster burned out and that's why the alternator is not charging. i was told that the alternator was checked and everything is ok with, but i wonder. Now, i thought that the battery is connected to a relay and then to the alternator. could it really be something in the cluster? i tried checking the alternator by starting the car and then removing the positive connection to the battery and it died right away. could it be the alternator that went out and was never checked. any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!
#2
05-08-2007, 01:40 PM
RE: alternator? or cluster?
by removing the positive does not check the alternator. Because your battery must be connected to have the car run 
. The alternator doesnt get charged, it charges the battery while the car is running. So what will happen if you have a bad alternator is the car will run until there is no charge left in the battery and then it will die. If this isnt what is happening then most likely its not the alternator
. The alternator doesnt get charged, it charges the battery while the car is running. So what will happen if you have a bad alternator is the car will run until there is no charge left in the battery and then it will die. If this isnt what is happening then most likely its not the alternator
#3
05-08-2007, 06:40 PM
RE: alternator? or cluster?
Do you have a battery light lit up on the cluster?
I would check the alternator once again, but this time have an alternator shop check it. Autozone doesn't always have qualified people checking these things.
No, the instrument cluster will not cause your alternator to not charge or stop its power output. Not in these cars. Our cluster only gets a "yes" or a "no" on whether the system is charging.
Things to check are the fusible links in the engine bay, you can check your alternator output too (the alternator has the voltage regulator in it). It's really simple if you have a multimeter. See if you have a light on in the instrument cluster. Well, that's really about it. Our charging systems are really simple.
I would check the alternator once again, but this time have an alternator shop check it. Autozone doesn't always have qualified people checking these things.
No, the instrument cluster will not cause your alternator to not charge or stop its power output. Not in these cars. Our cluster only gets a "yes" or a "no" on whether the system is charging.
Things to check are the fusible links in the engine bay, you can check your alternator output too (the alternator has the voltage regulator in it). It's really simple if you have a multimeter. See if you have a light on in the instrument cluster. Well, that's really about it. Our charging systems are really simple.
#4
05-09-2007, 04:24 AM
RE: alternator? or cluster?
hey thanks for the help everyone!!! i don't really remember exactly what happened, but when the battery was dying the cluster went nuts- all the lights turned on (don't remember in what order) and the needles were going crazy!!!! so, can something happen to the relay that connects the battery to the alternator? also, is there an easy way to check the alternator without having to remove it?
#5
05-09-2007, 04:45 AM
2 minute alternator circuit test
Original poster: GTM
Fastest 2 minute Alternator circuit check for charging on 1G & posibly 2G. I devised this test when troubleshooting an idiot charging light glowing when still charging correctly back in the mid 70s. It's still not common place but can be found in some publications.
Assumes a reasonably charged battery though not an absolute for most of the tests will need only about 6 volts to activate the test light. The drive belt should be properly tensioned. At the very least try to spin the alternator cooling fan with fingers, should not slip.
With a proper probe type test light connected to ground and the key off and done at the rear of the alternator.
1) test the large B+ lead (White or possibly Red wire) and the terminal on the back of the alternator. Must light.
2) Test the Yellow wire at the 2 wire plug on the back of the alternator. Must light.
3) Test the Black with White trace wire (BW) at the same plug. Must _not_ light.
4) Test the Black with White (BW) as above but with the key _on_. Must light dimly.
5) Start engine, test the BW and slowly increase engine speed. Light must increase in brightness as RPM increase to 2000.
Conclusions:
If #1 failure then the main 80 or 100 Amp fuse is burned or an open circuit at battery or fuse connections.
If #2 failure then 30 amp fuse connected to Yellow wire is burned or "Sub Fusible Link" burned.
If #3 failure (light is on) then a short exists between the Ignition Switch OFF position and the Alternator plug.
If #4 failure then "Alternator Relay" coil is burned or an open circuit between the alternator terminal plug and the Ignition Switch.
If #5 failure then the alternator has an internal problem.
......................
It is not the intent of this article to discuss possible failures within the Alternator for that is a very lengthy process and increased skills plus tools. I may put something up at a later time when I have a spare to refresh my memory.
Here is one more quick test but requires an "inductive" type ammeter which you just lay over the wire and take readings. It does require a good fully charged battery. Turn the headlights on high, turn the heater fan to high, turn rear window defroster on, and the key to on. Leave it this way for exactly 1 minute, turn everything off, start the car and then with the inductive ammeter check the alternator B+ wire while increasing the RPM to 2000. The charge rate should be approximately 75% of the alternator rated capacity thus if 100 amp you should see 75 amps which then starts to taper off.
Fastest 2 minute Alternator circuit check for charging on 1G & posibly 2G. I devised this test when troubleshooting an idiot charging light glowing when still charging correctly back in the mid 70s. It's still not common place but can be found in some publications.
Assumes a reasonably charged battery though not an absolute for most of the tests will need only about 6 volts to activate the test light. The drive belt should be properly tensioned. At the very least try to spin the alternator cooling fan with fingers, should not slip.
With a proper probe type test light connected to ground and the key off and done at the rear of the alternator.
1) test the large B+ lead (White or possibly Red wire) and the terminal on the back of the alternator. Must light.
2) Test the Yellow wire at the 2 wire plug on the back of the alternator. Must light.
3) Test the Black with White trace wire (BW) at the same plug. Must _not_ light.
4) Test the Black with White (BW) as above but with the key _on_. Must light dimly.
5) Start engine, test the BW and slowly increase engine speed. Light must increase in brightness as RPM increase to 2000.
Conclusions:
If #1 failure then the main 80 or 100 Amp fuse is burned or an open circuit at battery or fuse connections.
If #2 failure then 30 amp fuse connected to Yellow wire is burned or "Sub Fusible Link" burned.
If #3 failure (light is on) then a short exists between the Ignition Switch OFF position and the Alternator plug.
If #4 failure then "Alternator Relay" coil is burned or an open circuit between the alternator terminal plug and the Ignition Switch.
If #5 failure then the alternator has an internal problem.
......................
It is not the intent of this article to discuss possible failures within the Alternator for that is a very lengthy process and increased skills plus tools. I may put something up at a later time when I have a spare to refresh my memory.
Here is one more quick test but requires an "inductive" type ammeter which you just lay over the wire and take readings. It does require a good fully charged battery. Turn the headlights on high, turn the heater fan to high, turn rear window defroster on, and the key to on. Leave it this way for exactly 1 minute, turn everything off, start the car and then with the inductive ammeter check the alternator B+ wire while increasing the RPM to 2000. The charge rate should be approximately 75% of the alternator rated capacity thus if 100 amp you should see 75 amps which then starts to taper off.
Your lights went nuts because the alternator isn't charging the battery like it should. You most likely have a bad voltage regulator or the fusible link for the regulator is bad. A really easy to check if your alt is bad is to look at the top of it and look for signs of oil, water spots, or caked up dirt in or around it.....that means it's bad. The alternator needs to be free of oil which can kill it and water which can short it out and dirt, well, you know what dirt does.
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