need some help with my 98 eclipse spyder gst. okay when i bought my car it needed a clutch fork. My brother in law opened everything up and said the trans wasn't flush with the engine and that it wasn't the fork. When i bought the car the guy told me that the 2 mechanics that he sent it to were dumb and ended up messing up the clutch that he bought to put in it. A Fidanza stage2 clutch. He said the clutch got bent from the 1st mechanic and got his money back, the second mechanicdid a sh*t job cause when i got the car it was missing a few trans bolt.my brother ended up putting on the bent clutch after i told him not to but he said it was fine and after 2 weeks of waiting for him to finish, we took it on a test drive. First off the car won't go into first but after a hourwe are able to forcably put into 1st. we had to drive in 2nd for awhile. Thecar seems to make you shift at about 2,500 to 3,000 rpm Before it gets all jumpy. It took awhile to get to 60 mph. OKay sorry for long discription but my brother says it isfine to drive and that it has a hard ride because it has a stage 2 clutch and the aluminum flywheel is two light and could be unbalance and that eclipses have hard shifting in the first place. I don't believe this i think its the clutch.What i am asking what could be the problem. I know you can't tell me for exact but just give me some ideas thanks

 

well first off alot of times when you put on a aftermarket clutch you may need to adjust the grabbing point of the clutch pedal. I wish someone would take some pics on how to do this because its incredibly easy yet hard to describe.

Look behind you clutch pedal and youll see the push rod that connects to the master cylinder. On the end of the push rod toward the firewall is a nut. Simply loosen the nut, then twist the rod (i dont remember which way changes the engage point in which direction) so my reccomendation is just to turn it one way first maybe a couple turns. Then tighten the nut and check the clutch to see where is engagement point is at. Its kinda a guess and check method. Hopefully this helps.

Now if this doesnt fix it then you can start looking into other things. But this is the simplest thing to start with

 

okay i'll try that tomorrow, but if the clutch is bent could that be the problem with the car not wanting to shift into first. it seems like it's only in first cause it shift into the other gears pretty good. Thanks for reading the long post

 

sorry one more question, when we were driving, i have a blow off valve, it sounded wierd probaly cause i've never had one, but it just sounded like wind blowing while driving,

 

oh, just remembered, my brother said that the clutch didn't have a pilot bearing, but that the stock clutch didn't have one on it either so he never installed one. just trying to get all the info out there

 

right they dont have pilot bearings.

And a blow off valve will blow off while shifting or anytime you release the gas alittle. And the stock one will just sound like air. However alot of people may remove the dump tube which goes from the BOV to the intake which is bad for the car. But it makes the BOV louder. I would just make sure that this tube is still there. This is what a dump tube would look like
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Eng...mer/2G/bov.htm

 

okay quick question i've been reading up on this crank walk. could that be the problem. i was reading about this guy who couldn't shift into first when the car oil was cold. which seems to be my problem

 

I’m Looking for V6 Buick exhaust manifold (right side) The one that I have is the two into one, will buy extractors too.

 

Ok i did wat you said and it did help alot. I think i have to adjust it abit more, still a stiff. Now i think i'm getting to much air into my engine . Check engine lights on

 

adjusting the clutch pedal doesnt affect the air into the engine. Bring the car to autozone or a place like that and usually they will scan the code for you and tell you what the CEL is for