"Ghost" in the machine
Thanks! It would appear from your diagram and some of the research I have done on the Net that replacing the ASD may be my first step after verifying good connections on the battery. Many of the other sources I came across mention the "clicking" of the relay that I had experienced months back and also the "weird" behavior of various electrical system (wipers, turn signal etc) related to this relay. Some, however said that the relays "click" when there is not enough consistent voltage to get them to "stick." I am puzzled, however, as most of the other postings I have found relate to not being able to "start" the car if the ASD has gone bad.
Any ideas as to where I could order one of these ASD relays other than my local dealer, whom I am sure will have the price set higher than an AutoZone, etc. I live in the town where these are built so maybe the local shops carry these if they are a common culprit.
Let me know your thoughts on my "hypothesis...."
Any ideas as to where I could order one of these ASD relays other than my local dealer, whom I am sure will have the price set higher than an AutoZone, etc. I live in the town where these are built so maybe the local shops carry these if they are a common culprit.
Let me know your thoughts on my "hypothesis...."
Well if there were aftermarket items were installed make sure when they took the out that all the wiring repairs ok right and not hacked up.
Also I wouldn't chase the whole relay thing b/c when a car has low battery voltages the car will act a little weird like the relays clicking and ect... You can swap them and w/ other relays and see if it makes a differece?
Also I wouldn't chase the whole relay thing b/c when a car has low battery voltages the car will act a little weird like the relays clicking and ect... You can swap them and w/ other relays and see if it makes a differece?
Thanks. Here is another factor that I had forgotten...When I would take the key out and the car was still running and then I put the key back in and tried to crank it, expecting the starter motor to grind, it did not grind at all -- like it wasn't even affected. What does that sound like?
My 1gen actually did the same thing, there were several wires for the cps shorted together. Once I repaired them the right way (unlike the previous owner) it worked fine and always shut off w/ the key.
Pull apart the drivers side dash and hit it with a good multi-meter. If the car isn't shutting off with the ignition cylinder, I'd say there's something crossed in the ignition harness. Check the Accessory and Ignition wires, and make sure they're not crossed with a 12v constant.
OK, you are going to have to help me out here...what is the "cps"? Also, is there a decent depiction of the ignition wiring harness in a Chiltons or something or are the schematics here coded with wire colors? Don't mean to sound stupid but compared to you guys I DEFINTELY am....;-)
Thanks again for all the input. The weather here has been crappy so it may be a few more days before I have time and warmth to deal with this.
Thanks again for all the input. The weather here has been crappy so it may be a few more days before I have time and warmth to deal with this.
Cps is the camshaft position sensor. My problem was en easy find, there was a whole lot of electrical tape holding wires together. Just look under the dash and look for anything that is was messed with.
My haynes manual had a wiring diagram for the ignition system, I just dont know what they have for a 2gen. The diagrams I posted on here have coded wire colors. They are right next to the wire.
bk-black
r-red
y-yello and so on and so on.
My haynes manual had a wiring diagram for the ignition system, I just dont know what they have for a 2gen. The diagrams I posted on here have coded wire colors. They are right next to the wire.
bk-black
r-red
y-yello and so on and so on.
hey guys. My name is Kevin and i got the exact same problem with my 98 rs auto eclipse. It wont shut off most of the time. i already replaced the igntion switch with no luck. i also ordered a lock cylinder hoping that will work. i pull the pcm fuse to kill it. the oil lightstays on and drains the battery. Sometimes when it shuts off on its own i will return to only find the oil light has come back on without any key in the ignition. I just got the car but i dont think it had any mods to affect the wiring. Its really cold here could that be a factor. i also have noticed the clicking relays when my car wont shut off. I work at a shop and our electrical guru hasnt had a chance to look at it yet but things it could be the harness that plugs into the ignition switch has shorted out somehow. Well just hopin to maybe get colaborate and get or cars back on the road.....thanks 4 the help
Kevin-
PLEASE let me know what you find out as it sounds like we have identical problems!!! It si also cold here and now that you mention it, in the past, this has started to occur most often after a hard rain or significant dampness in the air. Don't know what bearing that would have on it if any....just thought I would mention it.
Another thought crossed my mind...is there any chance that this could be caused by the battery itself having a problem (non-consistent voltage, short, etc)? I hate to spend money on a new battery for a car I am just trying to get running so I can sell it.
PLEASE let me know what you find out as it sounds like we have identical problems!!! It si also cold here and now that you mention it, in the past, this has started to occur most often after a hard rain or significant dampness in the air. Don't know what bearing that would have on it if any....just thought I would mention it.
Another thought crossed my mind...is there any chance that this could be caused by the battery itself having a problem (non-consistent voltage, short, etc)? I hate to spend money on a new battery for a car I am just trying to get running so I can sell it.
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